That was me. You don't have to remove the tub, but you do have to get it high enough to grind off what's there. There should be welds on top, and those would be mighty hard to clean up without doing it

Also, you'll have to get the bushings out, and you'll need some height for that.
The
best way I can see it, and I ultimately had to resort to it, is to remove the front fenders. Tipping the tub too much from the rear will put quite a bit of stress on the fender attachment points. I took the fenders off, removed all the bushing bolts. put a longer bolt, about 6 inches long, in the front tub mounts. That kept the tub somewhat in alignment, because it will move on you regardless. Remove the support rods to the radiator/core support too.
I supported the tub with 2x4 wood pieces between the frame and tub once I lifted it up. Cut out the old crossmember, fit in a new one, which was a bugger too. My rear frame rails were pinched in, so I had to pull them out to match the new crossmember attachment areas. Once that was done, put stuff back together, only to realize that the bushing mounts in the new crossmember were too tight for my factory bushings. Major pain if you have to hog them out when the crossmember is expertly welded back in place.
Once done, primed and painted, came the lovely task of re-aligning the tub back on all the mounts. Fortunately, the long bolts up front kept it from moving too much, but there was still a little prying back and forth to get things back in alignment.
Another good bit of advice is measure, and triangulate measurements to make sure you've got the crossmember in the right spot before you tack it on permanently. Search for body mount measurements and there are a few posts here with all that data to make sure you're set.
So yes, done within the past few months.
-DO