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Purchased Harbor Freight Grease Gun Accessory Kit For my YJ. (pics) and prices.

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9.5K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  moonshinefuel  
#1 ·
I figured I would post my experience lubing the front end of my YJ, not real exciting, but one of those necessary things. I have close to 300,000 miles. I had been taking it to various lube shops, but am not really satisfied they were doing a proper job.
So, I purchased a lube gun $14.99, an accessories kit $15.99, also moly-graph multi purpose grease $3.99. All totaled approx 40 bucks.
I will get started with the pictures of the items themselves, then onto the actual zerk fittings lubrication components, my findings, etc.
 

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#2 ·
i like that accessory kit. i was just thinking how nice a 90 degree end would be for my little grease gun
 
#3 ·
Inserting the moly tube into the grease gun is no big deal, there is a directional arrow, but it really wont let you install it backwards anyways as there is a metal tab/lip on one side. So, just pop the plastic cover off one end of the tube, insert into gun, and then after installed I peeled the tab off the other end.
 

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#4 ·
Now grease tube installed, pretty simple, screw top cover of grease gun attachment onto gun, the rod at the back of the gun is pulled all the way out manually before you install the new tube, it has a notch that you seat it into offset, then after you screw on the top of the grease gun attachment, simply lever the rod straight parallel to the tube, and rod at back of gun simply slides back into gun.
 

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#6 ·
Good deal. I have been getting more and more creaks from mine and was getting ready to lube front and rear. This should be a helpful thread, keep the info coming.
 
#7 ·
As busemans mentioned, the 90 degree is the one I really wanted, and used. However, there are other pretty good fittings with the kit that I may need at another time. (looks like one of them might work well with greasable u-joints) As you can see, I have caked grease on some of the areas, ahh well, not hurting anything I guess, looks pretty gunky though. The main thing is it is a good idea to clean the nipple on the zerk fitting. A couple of these fittings I am not concerned grease coming out, overflowing out of the lips edge, but there are ones I want to be more careful with. The 4th picture down, I have my glove on and I am applying pressure as I don't want to overfill it with grease and rupture it. 5th picture down, yes it is dirty on the outside, but I am really only concerned that the nipple is clean, and clean grease is going in through the zerk, so clean them well.
 

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#8 ·
It is just a matter of locating all the zerk fittings. They are all in plain sight and easy to find.
Well here comes the carnage. I found 2 ruptures. This is most commonly a result in overfilling, (quicky lube shops), or simply they are dry rotted, aged, and also approx 300,000 miles factored in. Is this a major deal in my mind? Not really, of course it is something that needs to be fixed, and it is not good, but really what this means in my mind is I really want to lube the ruptured ones more often until I get new replacements. Something that needs to be addressed. The forth picture down, I really don't mind over filling this one, to me, its not rupturing anything, I know it is full now, and as you can see it is leaking out the lips edge evidencing that. (if anyone disagrees, please feel free to chime in for this one in particular) 5th picture down, I lubed the front drive shaft also.
Well that is it, this was my experience yesterday. As mentioned, there are certain fittings you want to be careful not to overfill and rupture, so feeling the pack with your finger while filling is probably the best way to prevent such ruptures you see here. Lubing more often now is what I will be doing until fixed, probably every 1500 miles or so, something like that.
 

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#9 ·
This picture had me second guessing for a minute there, it looks like a crack in the frame. I actually went out to look at it just now to see if it was a crack. It is just a scratch by a tree branch or something. There are no cracks in the frame, that is just lines created by something that came into contact with the frame like a jagged stick, and made a clean mark..so to speak. This is a southwest coast jeep, I would have been very surprised to see a crack. My frame is very solid.
 

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#14 ·
Thanks chupacabrah. I think for the money, and what you get, it is a good deal.
I will have to wipe some chunks of greasy dirt off a couple of those, and repair, and maybe some before and after type of thing. My front end really is holding up well all things considered, but I need to look into replacement/and or upgrade, of a few components there.
 
#15 ·
Yes, right down to that tiny spring tensioned mini ball bearing inside top. When the grease gun end attachment is fitted and seated onto the zerk, the flat inside the end fitting on the gun presses that little bearing down just enough. In the middle of the flat on the tip of the grease gun is where the hole is of course, where grease passes through. I know most all of you already know this of course, guess I'm in a typing mood or something.
 
#16 ·
You really need to clean up everything. The damage is much easier to find when everything is cleaned up.

Also if you are concerned about the zerk getting dirty and allowing grit in then you can buy some zerk covers that pop over the zerks and protect them and keep them clean.
 
#17 ·
That's a good point GrapeApe, it is really gunky and chunks of greased gobs of road dirt, dirt dirt, and whatever else. It looks like something out of a bad B' horror movie scene or something. I think I will use a simple scraper, and just kind of shovel it off there. Then spray it down with something, get it clean on the outside. I will look into the zerk covers too. Thanks, I forgot all about those.