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Plumbing for the 20 gallon fuel tank

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5.2K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  2001WJv8  
#1 ·
My CJ7 is a 79, but I have the 20 gallon tank, which I'm learning only came on 83 (or maybe 92?) through 86. I've searched, and even nabbed the FSM for that era, but I can't find any write-ups of the plumbing for the fuel tank. I'm sure I just haven't looked hard enough yet, but I'm hoping somebody here has a link. For those not in the know, it has two valves on top that the other tanks don't seem to have. The PO appears to have at least partially bypassed the rollover & liquid check valves, so I'm not sure exactly what I need to do to put this back together correctly.

I also appear to have 3 steel fuel lines that all meet up at the crossmember: one goes over the crossmember and up to the fuel pump. One probably goes to the return line off the charcoal cannister. And one looks to be broken off at the crossmember. I have not traced that line yet.

here's a stock photo of the tank:

Image
 
#2 ·
The line going up the right frame rail is the delivery line. It connects to the larger of the two ports on the tanks sending unit/ pick up and goes to the fuel pump
On the left frame rail, the smaller line is the fuel return. It goes from the fuel filter return port to the smaller of the two ports on the sending unit. The other line on the left frame rail is the vent line and it goes from the two roll over valves to the carcoal canister.
 
#3 ·
Right on, thank you. Since one of those steel lines is already buggered, is it advisable to replace it with another steel line? Or will a fuel-rated rubber hose be perfectly fine? The prospect of running another steel line with the tub on is not terribly exciting to me. For that matter, why are any of the fuel lines steel if rubber hose is ok?
 
#4 ·
Steel would be less likely to get torn by something when off-roading but if it's tucked up in the frame or out of the way I suppose it would be ok, for a while. Also, rubber hose, if not secured, will rub through and eventually leak in a short while. If I did it and I would try not to, I would use U.S. made fuel injection hose as it is much tougher. But steel is better and Stainless is best.
 
#8 ·
i was experimenting with ways to cure vapor lock - briefly had a new fuel filter between the mechanical pump and carb that had a port for a return (wix 33041 iirc?). I ran a rubber fuel line back down through the frame rail as the return line to the tank.

ended up putting in an electric pump and took out the return line, but posted fwiw if you are looking to run a return line in a safe place. the only downside I could think of by running it inside the frame rail is eventually if a leak occurred it might take a while to notice it - especially if it was small and never got large enough to drip out of the rail ... vapors = bad news since they are what actually ignite.

(the return line kept the fuel liquid, but I think it may have then also contributed to fuel issues by diverting some of the fuel away from the carb back to the tank. I went with the electric pump because with the return line, I couldn't go much above 3k rpm without running out of power)