I did not watch this-- but this might help

??

 

thank you



however this is for a clutch. my jeep and wiring harness came from an automatic that i am swapping in a manual. so i need to find the wires going to the automatic and bypass them. i have done this on a cherokee but not on a tj

 

They used a jumper wire near where the clutch pedal would be to bypass the clutch switch for those with automatics and a jumper wire near the side of the trans to bypass the neutral safety switch for those with manuals.

If you have not jumped across the clutch switch it will not start even if you have the NSS switch plugged in & that jumper (if still there) removed.

 

thank you



i found a plug under the jeep that had 4 wires. i know one or two of the are for the back up lights case it blew a fuse while i was trying to add a jumper.

i also thought that the clutch pedal would have something to do with it too.

i unplugged the clutch pedal but no luck.

so this morning i removed the dash and the wiring harness that was there for the 4 cylinder. i installed the harness that was from my donor 6 cylinder jeep.
not sure if this will help but maybe it will. i have not tried it cause i want to replace the heater core while i am in there

 

I think I misread what you have. You still have the manual but with an engine harness from an auto. I guess I read you were swapping the manual too & will have an auto. So keeping the manual will require the opposite of what I posted above. Plug in the clutch 2 wires & bypass the NSS either by finding the 2 unconnected wires near the NSS harness & jumping them together. Or finding the brown/light blue wire & the black one then connect them together. If you find the 2 disconnected wires they will be those colors as well.

Just to help, the backup wires are violet/white & violet/black.

I do not think changing the harness in the cab was needed & will not gain anything. As long as it is for sure from a 1997 it should be OK since you have it in already.

 

thanks



it is not your fault. i probably did not make myself very clear. i slept through english class cause in high school i was always out late doing other things lol

i had two old toyotas that were in ok shape that i traded.

one tj was in really good shape but had a blown head gasket. it was a 4 cylinder 5 speed.

the other tj was a 4.0 auto.

so i used the 4.0 motor and wiring harness. and the tcase. i bought a ax15 and swapped it to an external slave.

i stripped it down to the frame and painted it.

then i rolled the 4.0 prame under the body of the 4 cylinder.

i also am using the front and rear end from the 4 cylinder cause they are geared lower. 4.10 or 4.11s i think.

my thoughts for swapping the harness under the dash is because it does not seem to have a plug for the clutch. so i was thinking that would be a good thing to not have to worry about that.

also the 4.0 had some other nice things that the 4 cylinder did not have like intermediate wipers. i my swap that over too.

on my 95 cherokee i actually had a plug that ran to the transmission. you could look at the plug and see it marked a b c d e f. you could go on line and read about that the wires were for. it was simply that ealy. however on the tj i cannot find a plug.

i think i am in the right place. the plug that if by my transmission had four wires. i do know that to of them go to the back up lights cause i blew a fuse.

i am writing down the colors that you gave me and i will go outside and check.

thank you again.

 

All '97 harnesses should have the wires for the clutch switch. As I said, the autos would have a black wire jumper & the manuals would be plugged into the switch. Your 4 cyl harness must have it since it was a manual. The 4.0 harness should have the same wires but with the black jumper in it since it was an auto. It looks like the wires going to the clutch switch (or jumper) are yellow & yellow/red.

I think for the 4 wire trans connector the NSS are pins 1&3 & the backups are 2&4 if you can see the #s & the colors may be hard to see after all these yrs.

I can't tell for sure but the trans connector between the manual & auto may be different at the trans. If you still have the one from the 4 cyl you can look & compare. It appears (from the FSM) that the manual may only has a 3 wire connection & the autos have 4. If that is true you would need to figure that out. Bottom line is the backups have the colors noted above & the brown/light blue wire needs to be grounded for manuals which would be the black wire. So if you have to rework that connection you can just run the brown/light blue wire directly to ground.


The harness is not different for intermittent wipers. Only the wiper switch on the column is different. You just need to swap them.

 

thanks a million



i removed the heater core box and installed a new heater core. also added the ac thing. had to add a vacum canister thing to open that little door. had to cut a hole in the box for the little flap that will open and close.

after i installed all that i went to the plug and tried to jump them several ways.
kinda got agrivated after an hour so i ended up cutting the plug off.

i took two wires like you said and twisted them together and the reverse lights came on. so i new i was close.

took the other two wires twisted them together and got nothing.

then i remembered i had unplugged the clutch pedal. plugged that up. pressed the pedal, connected the two wires and turned the key and the motor turned over.

dude, your information had made me very happy.

i dont have the fuel tank in yet but i am very happy to have gotten this far.

off the wall, while i was fooling around with the clutch pedal, the little cap thing that holds the rod that goes to the master cylinder , that little clip fell off broken. is this something i can buy?

thanks again

 

Good work so far.

I don't know about the cap on the pedal rod (I have an auto).

 

ok



no problem. the help that you gave was spot on. i really apreciate it

 

If you mean the black plastic bushing that attaches the rod to the pedal, yes, you can buy them. They wear out and break from time to time.

OEM part number is 4446361, Dorman part number is 74014.

If mine goes again, i think I'll probably replace it with a bronze bushing and washer with an E-clip to retain it.

 

yes sir



that thing. if i had room i would drill a hole in it and put a pin in it. i will look around and see if i can order one.
mine was medal and it looked like if fit over the ball end and just kept the rod form in place.