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Discussion starter · #341 ·
I've been having issues with the cluster in my pig, after sitting a while sometimes not all the illumination lamps come on, and it's sometimes slow to start up. I grabbed the cluster out of the niner before I junked it, and I'm finally getting around to swapping it in (grabbed the BCM too just in case). Before I do that I figured I'd take a whack at my version of an LED swap.

This is just for the cluster, I know the 96-98 clusters are functionally identical, page numbers based on the 96 FSM. This is my write up, there are many like it but this one is mine . . .

I ordered from superbrightleds.com:
1x T1.5-BHP - Hi beam indicator
1x T1.5-GHP - Cruise indicator
4x T1.5-RHP - Airbag, Seat Belt, and Brake warning
3x T1.5-AHP - CEL, Fuel, ABS
2x 194-GHP - Turn signals
5x 921-WWHP15-TAC - Cluster illumination

I used warm white for the illumination because I wanted to stay true to the stock color scheme.

Now, as we all know (most!) LED's are polarized (positive and negative matter!) unlike old school lamps. I could guess and reverse the lamps until they all worked . . .

Or I could look it up in the damn BOOK!

Relevant pages for those who want to follow along, 8W-40-4, 8W-40-5, 8W-40-8, and 8W-40-9.

8W-40-4 has the Airbag (T1.5-RHP), Seat Belt (T1.5-RHP), CEL (T1.5-AHP), and Low Fuel (T1.5-AHP) lamps on it. 8W-40-5 has the High Beam (T1.5-BHP), Brake (T1.5-RHP), Check Gauges (T1.5-RHP), and Cruise (T1.5-GHP). If you look at the drawing the lamps are connected together on the positive side, and then controlled by the CCD controller in the cluster on the negative side. So if we look at the back of the cluster we can see pretty quickly where the common traces are.


My LED's have a small white dot on the positive side like this.


Start tossing in lamps and they look like this.


With all those done there are two warning lights left empty, Master Illum and ABS. According to my 96 FSM the Master Illum is export only (and there isn't a lamp in my existing cluster). Maybe an experiment for another day. We find ABS and the turn signals over in 8W-40-8 and 8W-40-9.

Looking at 8W-40-8 we see that the turn signal indicators share a common ground, and that they share that ground with the cluster illumination lamps. I wasn't willing to tear the cluster apart to see the traces for those lamps, so I grabbed a multimeter and set it to continuity check.

Starting with the turn signals we're looking for the common (ground) side of the lamps. We start with the turn signals because the cluster illumination lamps have both sides common with each other, by finding the common ground on the turn signals we can then find the ground on the illumination lamps.

Turn signal ground is the outside contact on each of them like this.


From there we can test from the known ground to the contacts for the illumination lamps giving us ground there. From left to right (looking at the back of the cluster) grounds are: Left, right, left, left, left. Just to annoy us.

My turn signal LED's are normal 194 style housings, which plug into the jeep bayonet adapter things. Noting which side is positive install is simple, just press into the base and go. If you're reusing the original bayonet bases I would hit them with a rubber eraser or contact cleaner before installing.


Of course now that I'd done the work to determine polarization on the illumination lamps I found out that the ones I ordered for that position were the high brightness non polarized version.


The only lamp remaining is the ABS lamp, which is special according to the FSM (DOT requirement?). The positive side (on with ignition) is fed from fuse 5, while the rest of the common positive lamps are fed from fuse 7, the only place fuse 5 appears in the cluster is for the damn ABS lamp. According to the diagram the positive side of the lamp is Connector 222 pin 5 and the ground is pin 4 on that connector. Flipping over to the connector diagrams C222 is on page 8W-80-33, that connector is the black connector on the back of the cluster. So using the pinout of the connector and things we know (turn signals!) we can find pin 5 (positive feed) and then find that it connects to the right side of the ABS light position. Note, there's diodes in that circuit so you need to pay attention to polarity of your meter if you're figuring this out for yourself.

And then we're ready to install!


Incandescent:


Led:


The incandescent vs LED pictures were taken a few minutes apart since I have two clusters. I'm running the camera in manual so the exposure is the same, the difference in intensity is all up to the LED's.

(And yes, every lamp worked the first time I installed the cluster)

Color is much improved going to LED's that are the right colors. Much nicer pop, especially on the blue and red indicators where the color of the LED helps a lot (not a lot of blue in a traditional incandescent). Grabs your eye the way I think warning lights on the dashboard should. Another thing to note is that almost every lamp I pulled out of the cluster had signs of the filament burning off, which looks like a slight metallic coating on the inside of the glass, which is exactly what it is, burned off filament that gets stuck on the glass. That's a one-two punch to intensity, less filament to give off light, and darker glass to shine through. Don't have to worry about that with LED!
 
Man. The intensity of those lights without looking way out of stock makes me consider this for the future.

But I also just acquired a bunch of 194 Incan bulbs for cheap so maybe not.
 
Discussion starter · #345 ·
The color saturation and contrast really surprised me, I knew it was gonna be an improvement, but damn. Pictures don't really do it justice in that area.

I didn't even realize that the ABS lamp on the old cluster was dead. Now I think I'd notice if it went missing.
 
Discussion starter · #347 ·
It works, I can't figure out why it's not in that version of the picture, but I shot those seven million times swapping between the clusters.
 
Discussion starter · #349 ·
Haven't decided, which is part of why I stayed with stock colors.

I don't really ever look at the climate controls, just reach over and spin, so it's not something that bugs me.

But k6rtm got himself a bunch of new interior LED's and I'm kinda jealous of his door lights, so I might do another round of lighting soon.

I'll be back to your regularly scheduled steel and sawzalls shortly.

But we've added a new member to that band, introducing, cold cut saw:
Image


An early gift from the fiancé in the name of getting things done on her sprinter, but it will find other uses.
 
Haven't decided, which is part of why I stayed with stock colors.

I don't really ever look at the climate controls, just reach over and spin, so it's not something that bugs me.

But k6rtm got himself a bunch of new interior LED's and I'm kinda jealous of his door lights, so I might do another round of lighting soon.

I'll be back to your regularly scheduled steel and sawzalls shortly.

But we've added a new member to that band, introducing, cold cut saw:

An early gift from the fiancé in the name of getting things done on her sprinter, but it will find other uses.
You lucky son of a gun.
 
Discussion starter · #351 ·
Over the last week, turned a pile of steel into a pile of cut steel. Ended up redoing some of the pieces I prepped before the new saw.


Tacked sections together.


Clamped up to the section that was already on the jeep.



Tacked in place on the pig.



Pulled it off the jeep and ran beads, welded in the shackle points from ruffstuff. Threw it back on about 11pm, plugged the jeep into the charger and passed out for the tree run the next day.


Got a few more gussets, and some other work to do on it before it gets painted and welded to the front of the jeep. Then the winch will get dumped in and wired.

I'm really happy with how it turned out.
 
Can you dim the LED's? I keep my dash lights hardly visible when driving at night. Sometimes vehicles have bright light indicators that are so bright I have to put a piece of paper over them. I sit so slumped in the ZJ I often times cant see the bright light indicator.

You can also turn the dash lights completely off in my 94 ZJ. Kinda odd driving at night with no dash lights...
 
Discussion starter · #354 ·
They dim a bit, but mine are brighter than stock so the low end is still brighter than the stock full brightness. You could spec different LED's if you wanted a dimmer look.

I'm using these for the illumination, they're about 80 lumen each:
Image


If you were to step down to something like this, which is only 30 lumen, it would be a lot more subtle:
Image
 
Discussion starter · #355 ·
Front bumper looks great. I like the idea of all of the clearance below the headlights.

btw- Did you get my last PM about the rock sliders?
Thanks!

And yes, I did, I'm just unsure of my schedule this weekend.
 
Discussion starter · #357 ·
So a few trail runs ago I managed to back over my exhaust. Which may have slightly dented the shock.
Image


And then the last run I was looking at the jeep and noticed this.


So with a little help from Kolak, old and busted vs new hotness.


I was amazed the shock that got the exhaust into it wasn't extending all the way anymore. It promptly started leaking once I inverted it. The other one may have been salvageable, it looks like it just unscrewed from the end, but I feel like it shouldn't have been able to do that?

I went with the 5160 a bit as a splurged, but also to see how they perform compared to the 5100. I think that they'll work better for some of the higher speed stuff we run.

Quick and easy install while I was "supervising" at the scene shop.




And no more twerking over potholes!
 
Let me know how those 5160s feel like.

I just bought a set of 5100s for the rear, but I need to update my front shocks as well. I've been bouncing on and off between 5100s and 5160s.. just can't decide :D


Are you gonna add some gussets on the front bumper? I'd probably add a 30° or 45° angled gusset onto the upper corner of the "ears". Would make it a lot stronger without sacrificing clearance.
 
Discussion starter · #359 ·
Yeah, the bumper still needs to get pulled and actually finished. Gussets, end caps on the tube, and tabs for lights are all missing, and I didn't have a chance to paint it, so it's currently a loverly redish color.

Then I can install the winch and clean up the rest of the front end. Then I'll throw the new hood on it.
 
Gotcha! :thumbsup:

What about the shocks, have you already driven the Jeep with the new ones?
 
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