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My turn: Rear main seal, timing chain, oil pump, oil pan gasket job. (Pic Heavy)

8.6K views 46 replies 17 participants last post by  98ZJ  
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What is the location / application for these serrated flange nuts / bolts?

Note that stainless hardware should not be used in strength applications, such as motor mounts. Stainless hardware does not have strength rating. Instead hardware w/ strength rating such as Grade 8 should be used where strength rating is required, such as a motor mount.
I think he used the serrated bolts on the oil pan. Certainly a non loaded position. In fact Lbsigman pointed me in that direction.

I used the same ones on my oil pan. I had to chip out the old bolts on my oil pan so I went with a bolt with good holding characteristics, wide head and won't rust.

These are the ones I used.
5/16”-18 x 3/4”: McMaster-Carr
Stainless steel version: McMaster-Carr

1/4”-20 x 1/2”: McMaster-Carr
Stainless steel version: McMaster-Carr
 
I was closely following the thread from @John Strenk when he did his timing chain as I had planned to mimic the same job on my '85. Let me just say that I hope to never do it again, but if I have to for any reason, at least the gaskets are all new and the HOURS of cleaning (more on this) I had to do, won't be required.

I have no idea how many miles I have on my '85 as the speedometer was not functioning when I acquired the Jeep mid last year, what displayed on the speedometer was around 96,000 miles give or take. A simple speedometer cable fixed the issue, but I could tell that it had been broken for a long time. Everything about this Jeep has been neglected by the previous owner who claimed to never drive the Jeep, but he also didn't spend a dime on it for the 10 years he owned it. I have been going through everything mechanical to get it working right and to eliminate all of the leaks, or at least get it under control.

When I did the valve cover, I was finally able to have a peek of the engine internals and it was not great. Lots and lots of carbon buildup, also from neglect, but I am lucky that my Jeep doesn't burn any oil, doesn't smoke, and it has great compression. Recently as some may have remembered, I converted my '85 to fuel injection with Howell's kit but a timing issue continued to plague me to which I attributed it to a stretched timing chain (presumably). Everything I do to this CJ requires 3x's the time as it fights me in everything I do, or maybe it's just me being a perfectionist being my biggest demise. I had a really bad rear main seal leak, oil pan gasket leak from the side of the block, a semi wobbly harmonic balancer and oil pressure fluctuations, albeit the oil pressure was within spec, but I wanted to replace the oil pump since I am going to be there.

Being that I wanted to the best parts for my CJ, I opted for:
  • Cloyes double roller timing chain
  • Felpro one piece rubber oil pan gasket
  • Felpro rear main seal
  • Melling oil pump (non high volume)
  • Melling oil strainer
  • Victor Reinz timing cover gasket & oil seal
  • Dayco Harmonic Balancer
Here I am digging into the project. Radiator out, water pump pulley off.

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Nice job. Glad you got the rear main cap off. I couldn't on mine. Not sure why.
Did you replace the snubber in the timing cover?
Image
 
So I’m looking back at this project here and for the life of me I do not remember seeing this sleeve falling out or stuck on the old pump.

I have tried googling AMC 258 or Jeep 4.2 oil pump mounting and I have seen blocks with and without that sleeve. Should that sleeve be there?

I have also found that I have oil weeping from one of the bolts on the pan, not between the block and pan, but from the bolt. :mad: I gave the bolt a little more bubba torque, but I am not excited with the idea of dropping the pan again. I might remove the bolt, apply some ARP thread sealant and hope for the best before I drop the pan.

I am wondering if M.O.R.E’s Bombproof engine mounts permit the pan to be dropped without removing the engine mounts?

View attachment 4170879
Now you got me wondering also.
I'm going to have to go through my pictures and look at my old pump....

Still, I am showing 25PSI at idle and 45 PSI cruising.
 
@John Strenk Did you have any clearance issues with your Melling high volume oil pump? My oil pressure is good with my new standard Melling pump but since I am going to have the pan off next weekend, thinking about putting a high volume pump in there.

I keep reading about the net positives and now my mind is going down that rabbit hole of ”what if”.
Not that I'm aware of. Pan bolted right up. No pushing involved.
Only hard part was attaching the pickup tube. I'm getting weak in my old age.
I probably should of put it in the freezer before I started,
 
When I was still racing, our club had a sled with 2x4 mounted on the bottom in a V shape. If someone got oil on the race track, most times from a blown engine, we would put oil dry on the spill and run the sled over it a couple times with some riding on the sled. Then just sweep the dust away with the oil. Only took a couple of minutes and we could get back to racing right away.