I found what you said interesting, thanks Army.... And to close the loop (packing bearings? this is boring - and I know it).
I pulled the seal off the back of the hub assembly/brake drum, and the bearings just fell right out (as expected; as they should). I cleaned out the old grease from the hub assembly, and used my new bearing packer (worked great!) to pack the two new bearings. I put in the larger/inside bearing first, tapped in the new seal to keep it in place (tight fit), then flipped it over and put in the other (smaller) bearing. Then I covered the two ends with duct tape to keep it all clean, put the whole assembly in the box the hub/drum assembly came in (along with new nut/washer/cage thingy), and now it's ready to go back into the trailer in case I ever need it. Since I had a spare castle nut/washer/cotter pin, I put that in there too in case I ever need to help someone else out.
Again, PLEASE!!! no matter what kind of axle you're running on your trailer, you need to carry a spare hub assembly with installed greased bearings & seal (I call it a "loaded" hub), and a spare nut/washer/cotter pins (or a spare nut/washer/ cage thingy if that's what your spindle takes) in/on your trailer. And a large enough socket to get the nut off (my pipe wrench wasn't cutting it) and a small roll of emery cloth. The nut for both of my 3500lb axles needs a 1.5" socket. And when my bearing went bad (and it also ruined the hub where the small/front bearing seats so the whole assembly was now toast) it put some small grooves/burrs on the axle's spindle so the new bearings wouldn't slide over it. So I had to use some emery cloth to smooth it out. A roll of emery cloth is just a couple bucks at Home Depot or Lowe's.
Don't leave it all at home. A fully loaded hub to match your trailer isn't that expensive and doesn't take up that much space - especially if you're not running electric brakes. A spare nut/washer/cotter pin (or cage thingy) is cheap. A 1.5" socket (or whatever size your trailer's axle nut takes) can be picked up at most any auto parts store or hardware store (or you or they can order it online). You'll be so glad you've got it if you ever need it on the trail.
I wish I had taken a picture of myself in that parking lot swapping out my hub. But it was hot out (summer in the south), I was tired, and I still had a long way to go to get to my destination. I just wanted to get it done so I could get back on the road. It would have been SO much worse if I hadn't had the parts and tools on hand or available.
Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread
Let's face it; there's only so much you can fit in the back of a Jeep, even with the rear seat removed. Some folks get pretty creative with Rubbermaid tubs and receiver hitch trays and such (see picture below - pray it doesn't rain!), but bottom line space is limited.
One option is to get a trailer. My goal for this thread is to discuss how a little 4' Harbor Freight-type trailer can be used and improved upon to be pulled behind a Jeep. I will provide pictures, part numbers, prices (to the best of my ability), measurements, internet links, suggestions (etc.), and will be using my little trailer as an example. Let's have fun with this.
A couple of disclaimers:
1. I am an Army Nurse - not a trailer salesman. I have no financial interests in any companies I may mention or provide links to other than I may have purchased from them.
2. The owner of the trailer assumes any risk that may result from modifying their little trailer from how it came from the factory.
3. Sometimes over time, the links I've posted stop working. You'll have to try googling it, then. If you've got a question about a link and you can't get to it, send me a PM.
Subsequent postings on this thread will include the following:
Define and give examples of a little trailer.
What other options are out there besides these little trailers?
What needs to be done to a little trailer after I buy it?
Tires - going larger - how big?
Axle - going wider - how wide do I need?
Raising or changing out fenders.
Spare tire mounts.
Options for the hitch mount.
Gas can mounts.
Cargo box options and ideas.
Modifying the suspension.
Modifying the frame.
Etc.
Off we go!
Safety video regarding trailer weight distribution (please watch - it is less than 30 seconds long):
How To Request Your Own Safe Trailering Demonstrator | U-Haul
Table of Contents
Edit 1 September 2014: Since this thread had become quite long, I have made a sort-of "Table of Contents" to break it down into subjects. This is not all-inclusive, nor does it imply that the way I did things is the only way to do it. When it gives a page number, there may be more than one post on that page related to the topic. A couple of times, I give a "Post" number - that probably means there's a link on that post for you to go to. And definitely read through the first few pages first.
There are 15 posts per page. So if I refer to a page (i.e., this is page one, post #1), you need to go to that page and then scroll through the posts on that page to find the post I'm referring to. And sometimes, I refer to a post #.
Note: When JeepForum did their last "upgrade", they changed from 15 posts per page to 20. So it has thrown off pretty much all the page numbers below. Sorry. You'll have to do the math to figure out what page the post(s) are on now.
Spare tire mount: Page 1
Mounting a wider axle: Page 2, 172, 173
Wider wheel option: Page 109, 112, 113, Post #1625
Ammo can mount: Page 8
Kolpin can mount: Page 1, 8, 9, 106
2" front receiver mount: Page 9, 10, 15, 43, 67, 68
2" receiver tongue bolt: Page 11, 43
Vinyl tub liner: Page 11
How much stuff can a little 4' trailer hold: Page 19 (Post #273)
Suspension swap (longer springs with shackles): Page 19, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 74, 152 (parts list)
Using factory Jeep rims on an HF trailer (and hub related stuff): Post #306, #704, #719, Page 47
Home made 3-axis coupler: Post #328
Bear box: Page 28
Calculating axle width for your trailer's wheels/tires: Page 29
Shortening/narrowing an HF 4x8' trailer: Post #459 on page 31 (thanks, jscherb)
Diamond plate trailer tub: Page 36, 37, 46, 80, 81, 85, 86, 89, 92, 94, 96, 97, 98, 100, 101, 105, 106, 121
Epic fail (and fix): Page 51, 59
Tongue extension/frame reinforcement: Page 62, 83, 84, 86, 87, 88, 90, 105, 112, 118
Trailer tongue (cooler) tray: Page 68, 70, 104, 112
Mud flaps: Page 112
Quick fists: Page 114, 119
Shock absorber mounts: Page 141, 142
Electric Brakes (and 3500lb axle): Page 172, 173, 196
RTT (really a tent cot): page 186, 187
Thanks, AuburnTiger92, for the picture! This is why he got a little trailer; check out post #2355 for a picture of his trailer.
If this looks like you on your last camping trip, then this is why you need a little trailer.
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire]()
One option is to get a trailer. My goal for this thread is to discuss how a little 4' Harbor Freight-type trailer can be used and improved upon to be pulled behind a Jeep. I will provide pictures, part numbers, prices (to the best of my ability), measurements, internet links, suggestions (etc.), and will be using my little trailer as an example. Let's have fun with this.
A couple of disclaimers:
1. I am an Army Nurse - not a trailer salesman. I have no financial interests in any companies I may mention or provide links to other than I may have purchased from them.
2. The owner of the trailer assumes any risk that may result from modifying their little trailer from how it came from the factory.
3. Sometimes over time, the links I've posted stop working. You'll have to try googling it, then. If you've got a question about a link and you can't get to it, send me a PM.
Subsequent postings on this thread will include the following:
Define and give examples of a little trailer.
What other options are out there besides these little trailers?
What needs to be done to a little trailer after I buy it?
Tires - going larger - how big?
Axle - going wider - how wide do I need?
Raising or changing out fenders.
Spare tire mounts.
Options for the hitch mount.
Gas can mounts.
Cargo box options and ideas.
Modifying the suspension.
Modifying the frame.
Etc.
Off we go!
Safety video regarding trailer weight distribution (please watch - it is less than 30 seconds long):
How To Request Your Own Safe Trailering Demonstrator | U-Haul
Table of Contents
Edit 1 September 2014: Since this thread had become quite long, I have made a sort-of "Table of Contents" to break it down into subjects. This is not all-inclusive, nor does it imply that the way I did things is the only way to do it. When it gives a page number, there may be more than one post on that page related to the topic. A couple of times, I give a "Post" number - that probably means there's a link on that post for you to go to. And definitely read through the first few pages first.
There are 15 posts per page. So if I refer to a page (i.e., this is page one, post #1), you need to go to that page and then scroll through the posts on that page to find the post I'm referring to. And sometimes, I refer to a post #.
Note: When JeepForum did their last "upgrade", they changed from 15 posts per page to 20. So it has thrown off pretty much all the page numbers below. Sorry. You'll have to do the math to figure out what page the post(s) are on now.
Spare tire mount: Page 1
Mounting a wider axle: Page 2, 172, 173
Wider wheel option: Page 109, 112, 113, Post #1625
Ammo can mount: Page 8
Kolpin can mount: Page 1, 8, 9, 106
2" front receiver mount: Page 9, 10, 15, 43, 67, 68
2" receiver tongue bolt: Page 11, 43
Vinyl tub liner: Page 11
How much stuff can a little 4' trailer hold: Page 19 (Post #273)
Suspension swap (longer springs with shackles): Page 19, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 74, 152 (parts list)
Using factory Jeep rims on an HF trailer (and hub related stuff): Post #306, #704, #719, Page 47
Home made 3-axis coupler: Post #328
Bear box: Page 28
Calculating axle width for your trailer's wheels/tires: Page 29
Shortening/narrowing an HF 4x8' trailer: Post #459 on page 31 (thanks, jscherb)
Diamond plate trailer tub: Page 36, 37, 46, 80, 81, 85, 86, 89, 92, 94, 96, 97, 98, 100, 101, 105, 106, 121
Epic fail (and fix): Page 51, 59
Tongue extension/frame reinforcement: Page 62, 83, 84, 86, 87, 88, 90, 105, 112, 118
Trailer tongue (cooler) tray: Page 68, 70, 104, 112
Mud flaps: Page 112
Quick fists: Page 114, 119
Shock absorber mounts: Page 141, 142
Electric Brakes (and 3500lb axle): Page 172, 173, 196
RTT (really a tent cot): page 186, 187
Thanks, AuburnTiger92, for the picture! This is why he got a little trailer; check out post #2355 for a picture of his trailer.
If this looks like you on your last camping trip, then this is why you need a little trailer.
3501 - 3520 of 3530 Posts
Picked up the new axle today, a 6000lb axle with brakes,still need to have the mounts welded on.
Attachments
Yeah; I need to start doing some shorter couple-day trips here around the PNW.
My next big trip? I still need to get to Tuk and toss a kayak into the Arctic Ocean. Maybe/hopefully this summer. A few years ago I got about half-way (about a half-day's drive south of Whitehorse), and then issues came up so I had to turn back.
And... (this might sound weird) I might do it in my 2008 Toyota Yaris (& no trailer). Just got a 1.2" lift kit for the Yaris in the mail that I hope to install within the next week or two. If I remove the passenger front seat I can sleep in the car (think stealth camping). Put a roof rack on top, slightly larger and more aggressive tires... it'll be interesting. It'll save a lot on gas (figure 5,000 miles round trip from SW WA up and back is a lot of gas for the Jeep). Other than the Dempster Highway, it is all pavement. And as I recall, the Dempster is a fairly compacted gravel road (I've been as far as Inuvik).
Check this out: https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/overlanding-in-a-small-economy-car.37846/
But back to the Jeep and trailer. I didn't get to finish the TAT this past summer. We started the TAT in WV, and the Jeep's clutch started acting up in CO, and it got worse in ID. So I sprinted (if you call about 700 miles a sprint) home from ID to WA and got the clutch replaced, and did some repairs/upgrades to the trailer (posted previously in this thread). So maybe next spring I'd like to go back to ID about where I left off, and then finish the TAT to the OR coast.
I'm not really interested in leading any big trips this winter, but I'd be happy to participate in one. The Northwest Overlanding Society (NWOL) is pretty quiet right now.
The NW Overland Rally was cancelled this past summer. They think they'll be a go next summer. I'd like to attend that (I've been twice). It is held near Leavenworth, WA. Or even better, they also have an overlanding rally in BC that I haven't attended yet. Provided entry into Canada isn't blocked this summer, that is also on my short list.
https://www.facebook.com/NWOverlandRally
https://business.facebook.com/BCOverlandRally/?__xts__[0]=68..&fref=nf
The TJ could use some new tires, but the trailer's got a new axle and new tires; it is just itching to get out there somewhere on an adventure.
My next big trip? I still need to get to Tuk and toss a kayak into the Arctic Ocean. Maybe/hopefully this summer. A few years ago I got about half-way (about a half-day's drive south of Whitehorse), and then issues came up so I had to turn back.
And... (this might sound weird) I might do it in my 2008 Toyota Yaris (& no trailer). Just got a 1.2" lift kit for the Yaris in the mail that I hope to install within the next week or two. If I remove the passenger front seat I can sleep in the car (think stealth camping). Put a roof rack on top, slightly larger and more aggressive tires... it'll be interesting. It'll save a lot on gas (figure 5,000 miles round trip from SW WA up and back is a lot of gas for the Jeep). Other than the Dempster Highway, it is all pavement. And as I recall, the Dempster is a fairly compacted gravel road (I've been as far as Inuvik).
Check this out: https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/overlanding-in-a-small-economy-car.37846/
But back to the Jeep and trailer. I didn't get to finish the TAT this past summer. We started the TAT in WV, and the Jeep's clutch started acting up in CO, and it got worse in ID. So I sprinted (if you call about 700 miles a sprint) home from ID to WA and got the clutch replaced, and did some repairs/upgrades to the trailer (posted previously in this thread). So maybe next spring I'd like to go back to ID about where I left off, and then finish the TAT to the OR coast.
I'm not really interested in leading any big trips this winter, but I'd be happy to participate in one. The Northwest Overlanding Society (NWOL) is pretty quiet right now.
The NW Overland Rally was cancelled this past summer. They think they'll be a go next summer. I'd like to attend that (I've been twice). It is held near Leavenworth, WA. Or even better, they also have an overlanding rally in BC that I haven't attended yet. Provided entry into Canada isn't blocked this summer, that is also on my short list.
https://www.facebook.com/NWOverlandRally
https://business.facebook.com/BCOverlandRally/?__xts__[0]=68..&fref=nf
The TJ could use some new tires, but the trailer's got a new axle and new tires; it is just itching to get out there somewhere on an adventure.
Attachments
Everything is going back together. I feel good about the axle setup, I have basically duplicated the rear suspension of my old Lexas GX470, but replaced springs with airbags and that system work really well. Plus I will be adding brakes with the new axle.
The box has been re-varnished, doors redone, made one a little too big but that just stopped me from moving the box back another inch. Made the inside drawers and a table, now working on a box for the ARB fridge and battery power. The drawers can be lock in, they are just sliding on wood, the table stores just above the draws. I made a table, because I couldn’t find to fit where I wanted it. The table legs are adjustable up to another foot taller and stores on the bottom of the table.
The box has been re-varnished, doors redone, made one a little too big but that just stopped me from moving the box back another inch. Made the inside drawers and a table, now working on a box for the ARB fridge and battery power. The drawers can be lock in, they are just sliding on wood, the table stores just above the draws. I made a table, because I couldn’t find to fit where I wanted it. The table legs are adjustable up to another foot taller and stores on the bottom of the table.
Attachments
I finally got a rotating pintle hitch! It is a Dixon Bate hitch, aka Nato Hitch or NRC2051. I had to order it from England, and it actually got here pretty quick. Total cost including delivery: $300.16 US dollars.
![Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system Bicycle drivetrain part]()
The mounting holes are the same as the pintle hitches you buy here in the states. So now I have the option of having the pintle in the upright fixed position, or by pulling the pin (the one with the cotter pin in the bottom of the picture) it allows the fork thingy to drop, and then it can rotate 360-degrees.
As far as I know, I've never overextended the limits of my non-rotating pintle hitch and lunette ring, but now I have the option to give it even more flexibility (as far as twisting left and right).
Comparison between my old military surplus pintle hitch (left), and my new Dixon Bate hitch (right):
![Camera lens Camera accessory Door Digital camera Cameras & optics]()
Jeep and trailer in action (with fixed/military surplus pintle hitch) TJ and trailer - YouTube
If you're interested in getting a Dixon Bate hitch, send me a PM and I'll put you in contact with the Ebay seller in England I got mine from. I'm not in the biz, and I'm not in any way making a penny from this. I do it for the glory and admiration.
The mounting holes are the same as the pintle hitches you buy here in the states. So now I have the option of having the pintle in the upright fixed position, or by pulling the pin (the one with the cotter pin in the bottom of the picture) it allows the fork thingy to drop, and then it can rotate 360-degrees.
As far as I know, I've never overextended the limits of my non-rotating pintle hitch and lunette ring, but now I have the option to give it even more flexibility (as far as twisting left and right).
Comparison between my old military surplus pintle hitch (left), and my new Dixon Bate hitch (right):
Jeep and trailer in action (with fixed/military surplus pintle hitch) TJ and trailer - YouTube
If you're interested in getting a Dixon Bate hitch, send me a PM and I'll put you in contact with the Ebay seller in England I got mine from. I'm not in the biz, and I'm not in any way making a penny from this. I do it for the glory and admiration.
I'm sure this person was glad to have had a spare tire for their trailer.
There's no plug or patch kit gonna fix this one.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Tread]()
There's no plug or patch kit gonna fix this one.
Jeeps and trailers are made for adventure! What's my next adventure with the trailer?
Originally my plan was to run the Dempster to the Arctic Ocean this summer. Unfortunately, currently the northern providences in Canada are essentially closed to non-resident travel. So...
This July/August I'll be running the IDBDR (Idaho Back Country Discovery Route) from the ID/NV border up to the Canadian border. Then back down south/southeast on mostly four-lanes to Arco ID (where I left the TAT last summer d/t clutch issues), and from there will be running west on the TAT till we get to the Pacific Ocean Spur of the TAT, and will take that west across ID and OR to the OR coast (Port Orford, OR).
I think it'll be about a 2700 mile trip overall, and other than about 600 miles on pavement to Arco it'll be mostly mild off-road. That doesn't include the almost 700 miles to get from my house to the start of the IDBDR, or the 325 miles to get from the end of the trip at the OR coast back home to SW WA.
So just a little bit under 4000 miles to put on the trailer this summer.
US Northwest - Idaho BDR (and then some!) | OVERLAND BOUND COMMUNITY
![Wheel Tire Mountain Car Land vehicle]()
Originally my plan was to run the Dempster to the Arctic Ocean this summer. Unfortunately, currently the northern providences in Canada are essentially closed to non-resident travel. So...
This July/August I'll be running the IDBDR (Idaho Back Country Discovery Route) from the ID/NV border up to the Canadian border. Then back down south/southeast on mostly four-lanes to Arco ID (where I left the TAT last summer d/t clutch issues), and from there will be running west on the TAT till we get to the Pacific Ocean Spur of the TAT, and will take that west across ID and OR to the OR coast (Port Orford, OR).
I think it'll be about a 2700 mile trip overall, and other than about 600 miles on pavement to Arco it'll be mostly mild off-road. That doesn't include the almost 700 miles to get from my house to the start of the IDBDR, or the 325 miles to get from the end of the trip at the OR coast back home to SW WA.
So just a little bit under 4000 miles to put on the trailer this summer.
US Northwest - Idaho BDR (and then some!) | OVERLAND BOUND COMMUNITY
Made some improvements to the trailer. Made a lift out of wood and a welder made it from steel for me. Sits low going down the road, but can be raised to fir the annex on my RTT. The lift is raise by an electric actuator. Also added a battery pack, 1400 watt hours, charges from the truck or solar panels. They supply power for lights inside and out and more if needed.
![Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Plant Vehicle]()
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood]()
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Engineering Gas]()
3501 - 3520 of 3530 Posts
