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Liberty stalled while driving, won't start

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31K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  KeithV  
#1 ·
Well my sister was driving her jeep liberty yesterday and it just shut down in the middle of driving and it refused to start back up. She got it towed back and I tried to check it out but here's what happens

You try to start it but it just cranks and won't turn over, there's no check engine codes but the brake light and the abs light comes on. If you hold the gas while trying to start it it will reluctantly start and the whole car shakes pretty bad and stalls when you let go of the gas. I just noticed the valve cover gasket on the passenger side seems to leaks pretty good when it's running like that. It sounds like the fuel pump turns on when you turn the key to on and I took off the sensors on the intake and cleaned them and plugged them back in, no change. it threw codes for the sensors when they were unplugged but it still did the same thing and the codes went away after plugging them back in.Not sure if the valve cover leaking is related or not.

My thoughts are leading to some kind of fuel issue but I have no clue. I'm used to dealing with my 5.2 grand cherokee.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
#3 ·
ive heard of the same problem before with not a jeep. Tested by disconnecting the fuel line before the engine and checking for pressure. Pump was only at about 10 psi, much lower than it needed to be. Put a new pump in and it was fine.

but thats just an idea. i really have no clue
 
#7 ·
Same thing happened to my 2003 Liberty (Sport/4wd/6 cylinder) 3 years ago.
I was coming out of a rest area on the New York State Thruway and up to about 40-45 mph. Car started to vibrate, engine died and I was able to pull over/coast over to shoulder. The ABS indicator did illuminate. Car would not start again and had it towed to the closest Jeep dealer.
I was told I had a carbon build up on the valves, either caught fire or melted and all needed to be serviced. I was still under warranty at the time, so Jeep performed all of the service that they deemed necessary and I didn't dig into the service performed. A regret now.

I am on this post today because I just took my Jeep in for annual NY State inspection yesterday and got a call to advise that I needed a fuel injection service. I asked the direct question if my car would pass emission inspection without the service and was told no by the tech. The charge is $485, which seems high. $150 is the most I have been able to find on my search so far. I am interested to go to the dealership today and ask some more direct questions about the service. In light of the problems I had 3 years ago, I agreed to the service, but have to say that this trip to Jeep feels like a double dip recession money scam.
Good luck to you and your sister.
MD
 
#10 ·
For Ray41147:
I went back to my service records and the following was listed on my invoice as the cause of the problem:

Fault trace system and found failed valve seat in R/S Cyl Head
Replaced R/S cylinder head and reset system
Road test normal

Parts Description: (Abbreviated on invoice/all qty = 1 unless noted)
Valve Int (qty = 3)
Retainer (qty = 12)
Gskt Kit
Plug None
Head Cyli
Spring Va
Sealer RT
Valve Cra
Filter En
Coolant C

All covered under warranty so no prices listed.
 
#11 ·
For: LibertyTC and streetglideok >> I really appreciate you taking time to reply. Thank you!

I picked up my Liberty yesterday morning.
I went through my service records (which until yesterday I have kept in the glove box) and found an almost identical entry for last year when the inspection was done at the same dealership:

Invoice Dated 9/10/10 >> Mileage = 116,087
Description: Terra-Clean
Perform complete fuel and emissions system service
Fuel injection and emissions system maintenance
Pressure cleaned fuel injection and emissions
Labor = $125
Parts = $240.75
Total = $365.75

Invoice Dated 10/1/11 >> Mileage = 121,973
Description: Terra Clean
Emission System & Fuel injection cleaning service
Preventative Maintenance, clean valve deposits, combustion chamber and fuel injectors. Pressure cleaned fuel injection system at rail. Cleaned fuel intake. Add fuel treatment to tank
Labor = $125
Parts = $360
Total = $485

My questions are:
Is this essentially the same service?
Is it reasonable to need this service 1 year/5k miles apart?

I live in New York City. Drive the car about 1-2x per month. Majority (90%)of driving is highway miles to/from upstate New York.

Thanks!
 
#12 ·
I would say, if you were not experiencing any drivability issues, then no, it wouldnt need to be done a year apart. Same labor amount, but more in parts. Most shops pay flat rate, so if they really did more work, for the same labor, theres a tech thats not happy. I dont see that flying at the dealership. I have a hard time believing your engine got that gunked up within a year after they went thru the induction system. I would venture to guess it was nearly the same work done, just a much more thorough explanation, to make it sound like a better value. Common marketing ploy.
 
#13 ·
The "Terra Clean" is the Professional chemical cleaner..my guess, sounds like they are taking you to the cleaners! Why did you feel it was necessary to do that service again-Jeep running rough?
With only 5 k miles (1 Year) there should have been no need to do this service however......(here we go)
Why are you only driving the KJ 1-2 times per month? How often do you start the kJ in between?
Does the Jeep get completely fresh fuel once a month? This is the point where I try to explain that having a inexpensive code reader (so you know what the check engine light codes actually means) being able to change your spark plugs, and do your own throttle body cleaning /tune ups, gives you peace of mind and prevents dealers from ripping ya off, and you get to do the work right..yourself. My jeep is highly maintained and I do all the tune up work myself. My schedule is keep oils/lubes/throttle body clean, and replace spark plugs every 22k miles. The rear diff lube gets changed every 12K miles, with GL5 (dino) 85w-140 + friction modifier for Trash-Lok
Front diff every 30k miles or every 2 years for both. Same with the Transfer case ATF+4. The power steering fluid has been suctioned out and I use LubeGard power steering fluid in the reservoir, once a year.
The only work the dealer gets from me is: Transmission service-flush ATF+4 every 40k miles or 3 years.- relearn
( I have a drain plug) on PML pan and can drain tranny fluid and keep it fresher on my own in between.
Rad/Coolant flush- Every 3 years With HOAT.
I have a good personal mechanic that does my Brake fluid flush every 2-3 years or when when brakes need servicing.
I change my engine oil every 3500 miles and use Mobil1 synthetic with quality filters.
Air filter once a year or when it gets a bit dirty. I also remove air box and wash it out with clean sponge bob.
I clean my own throttle body with sensors-TPS and IAC once a year and use Chevron Techron in the gas on highway drives a couple of time a year. I also add lucas fuel treatment at same time.
While my Jeep may sit for a few days..it is plugged into a intelligent battery charger.
It will get it started every 3 days and taken for a run no matter what. I have other vehicles so my Kj lately has only been getting about 10k per year. Jeep today is going out for a highway run and will also check fluid levels,tire pressure, lug nut torque, and will let it warm up nicely before I drive off.- Hope this has been some what helpful.
Ps a basic tool kit is all that is needed with an OBDII reader and you can do the work yourself, with help from many in the forums. I had to start some where on my KJ too. I now know it pretty good!
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#15 ·
Posting here as there are some fairly recent posts. Also because my wife called me today to say that she was driving and the vehicle just shut off. The lights were all on and vehicle just died. She got it restarted and it has since faultered two more times. Check engine is on. Has been for more than a month. At the time we had it diagnosed, it was a enviro sensor issue. Shop said it was nothing serious, only affects the the A/C system.

The issue today sounds like a fuel pump thing. Can anyone confirm this? Again, electrics are all up and no dimming. Doesn't sound like alternator to me. Thanks!
 
#16 ·
Hi jlillich,

Sounds similar to what happened to my vehicle except that my check engine light was not illuminated before the vehicle shut down. All other power was active: lights, windows, etc. I was able to turn the ignition and the engine would try to turnover but would not start.

See my posting above about the work done dated 10/2/11. I recommend that before you spend money on the fuel pump, I would make sure that your mechanic has checked/ruled out a failed valve seat in R/S Cyl Head.

To all others that read this post: Where my other issue regarding the fuel injection and Terra Clean service are concerned, I note for the record that the dealership did refund a portion of the money that I paid for the service on 10/1/11. I wrote a letter to the Service Manager at the dealership and ultimately had to contact Chrysler corporate, but wasn't long after the call to corporate before I received a check for the service.
 
#17 ·
I found the issue. We unhooked the intake/output hoses from the charcoal canister next to the battery and blew air through it. After crawling the length of the chassis, we found a house back near the gas tank with an inch long split in it. Once we changed that out and cleared the codes it seemed to run better and hasn't faultered at all!
 
#18 ·
Mom had similar issue

my mom had the same issue in her 2002 KJ just recently. Seemed there was a relay that needed to be replaced. The shutoff relay or something... Can't remember what she said. That remedied the issue. So check your relays and such. It might just be electrical.
 
#19 ·
2004 Jeep Liberty 3.7l 4x4 Dies while driving and won't start

The mother of my children was driving for about 10 minutes like any other time and she said the car just died while driving. The only lights on the dash was the oil light engine symbol and the battery symbol. Tried to jump it but didn't even want to turn over. Got it towed back to the house and I started to work on it and troubleshoot problems. Started with battery because it seemed like not enough power was getting to the starter. I changed battery and fuel pump because it wasn't shooting out gas out the port like it should and no tools to find out so changed that fuel pump and the filter come to find out the strainer is the filter...Back on track I tried to start it again and a little chug and nothing starter just clicked again. Changed the starter thinking that was going to fix the problem but why would it just die in the middle of the road. Changed the fuel pump now, starter, brand new battery, Spark plugs depth at .35. still not enough power to crank over the engine. Tried to spray starter fluid in the throttle body and the starter started to smell like melted copper. Please reply to this anytime I need help. No Codes and going to replace starter again and get it tested where I got at Autozone. will update when I have something new. Any suggestions anybody?