I'd use that Felpro gasket you mentioned. RTV should not be necessary just make sure the old gasket/RTV is cleaned off the head and the cover very well. Tighten from the center outwards in an outwards circular pattern, as if you were doing a cylinder head. You do not need to tighten up the bolts very much - less is more here - just snug them up but you shouldn't really have to put much force on it. Might want to use some loctite blue on the bolts.

 

I found it just as cheap to buy an entire upper engine gasket kit, as it was to just buy the valve cover gasket for my 82. However even with the new gasket and my plastic cover, it continued to leak. Just this weekend I pulled it back off and used rtv on both sides of the gasket. I know it will be more of a pain to change back out down the road, but I was tired of everything being covered in oil. It has finally stopped leaking with this method.

 

After three attempts, I finally got my VC to stop leaking by using Permatex's Right Stuff.

Check your cover flange for flatness and rework it if necessary.

You definitely don't need to crank on the bolts.
Torque spec using RTV is 28 INCH-pounds (2.33 ft-lbs), which ain't much.

Torque Specs:
http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=69-4.2L-258ci-S6

 

I pulled my old plastic valve cover off last night, had to get a little ruff. I am not sure if I broke it or it aread was, but the leittle studs that are on the drivers side of the cover that go in the holes on that side of the head the front one was broke off so I have a few questions.
Should I put it back on? The cover looks good except for that broken ear or line up dowel.
Would you replace with aluminum or new plastic? if Aluminum does anyone know which one uses the same 1/4" bolts so only tapping would be required of the drivers side on the head?
On either plastic or Aluminum, should I use gasket or RTV? The Shop manual I have says put a 1/8" bead of gasket maker RTV on the head and on the cover.

Please keep the help coming.

 

I bought one of the inexpensive "4.2" valve covers off of eBay. I only needed to tap the two holes on the driver side as you mentioned.

I messed up the gasket that came with the kit, and the second gasket went as follows (after cleaning the crap out of the head mating surface, using mineral solvents as a final prep):

1. apply a thin bead of black RTV to the new valve cover. Wait 15min.
2. line up the FelPro gasket onto the valve cover. Wait 15min.
3. apply a thin bead of black RTV on the head mating surface. Wait 15min.
4. gently and carefully set the cover with the gasket on the head. Thread your bolts on there barely finger tight. Go have a beer and watch some preseason football. Come back in 4hrs.
5. After 4hrs, tighten the bolts to half spec. The specs are listed in instructions that come with the kit, despite what you might read upthread, the kit says differently. Go to bed, you've had a long day.
6. The next morning, tighten the bolts to full spec. The specs are listed in the instructions that come with the kit, despite what you might read upthread.

*Please pay attention to your tightening order - it matters and you start from the center of the cover and radiate outward, finishing up on your front and rear bolts.

**You will definitely need an inch-lb torque wrench and 5" allen sockets to reach the rear cover bolt.

You are now good to drive, but recheck torque specs every day for a week and then again a week later and then as often as you want.

I've typed these instructions so many times and every time someone says you don't need black RTV or whatever. And every so often I read threads from people who didn't use RTV who've had a gasket failure, so I'm more than happy I did and the stuff is only $10 and no matter what you've got to wait.

 

The specs are listed in the instructions that come with the kit, despite what you might read upthread.

Specs listed upthread are OEM torque specs for OEM cover.

Aftermarket covers will have torque specs recommended by manufacturer.

 

I'm still run'n the OEM plastic.
About 5 yrs ago. Removed the VC for leaks and super cleaned all contact areas.
Resealed with 1/8" bead of Permatex orange, hi-temp silicon sealer and re-torqued to OEM specs(10 ft/lbs, IIRC). no leaks since then.......Finger crossed:laugh:
LG

 

Get an aluminum one. There are a few options, but I believe most of them you only need to drill and tap the drivers side ones. Then get a good ol' cork gasket for $7.99,you dont have to use any rtv as that may not let it seat right, but everyone has their opinions. Just clean the surfaces, place gasket tighten down and it will be good to go. I have done it both ways and found that 'for me' putting cork on dry delivers the best results.

This is the valve cover i have http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Engine-Perf.../Polished-6-Cylinder-Valve-Cover.aspx?t_c=74&t_s=552&t_pt=8136&t_pn=OAI17401.09

kov

 

Out of curiousity, where are you getting a cork gasket for $7.99? I need one for my Clifford cover on the tan Jeep, and replacments I've found are the same price as the felpro.

 

I have seen guys epoxy studs in the block instead of taping them. Do you have to drill the holes or are they all ready there for the valve cover.

 

Right Stuff.
Both sides of gasket. Assemble to specs above. Done !
Used it on several things. Works really well.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum

 

I have the "4.2" cover on my 85. All you have to do is tap the two holes on driver's side. I didn't drill anything. The bolts that came with the cover were all wrong, so I went to Ace Hardware, bought the correct length and size, and it went on without a hitch. I would definitely do this over trying to use the plastic cover. Dad's plastic cover on his Jeep leaked the day we picked it up from the dealership (bought new, special ordered).

 

I get mine at Advanced auto http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...t/product_valve-cover-gasket-set-felpro_5782007-p?searchTerm=valve+cover+gasket

They have another option, that is mixed with like rubber and cork, but its like 30 bucks, Cork is the way to go, done right it will seal up everytime.

kov

 

Huh, who woulda thunk you could get it locally that cheap. Thanks!

 

When I installed mine on 4.2l I had to trim a little of the gasket with exacto knife to get it to fit within the lip of the valve cover, if not the gasket would have squished and left some gap under it! I don't believe all newer gaskets fit like they're suppose to, therefore leaking issues Occur?! Felpro cork gasket

 

Well I purchased the 4.2L valve cover. I checked the fit, all was good, then I cleaned up everything and put RTV and Gasket on and installed cover. All went well except the 5/16" X 1/2" long allen head bolts were not long enough to thread up in the holes on the drivers side. So I snugged all the other bolts up and let the RTV cure, I am getting longer bolts for the driver side today. Question do you think the cover will leak since I was not able to snug the drivers side up while the RTV was curing? SHould I try it or go ahead and redo? If I cant get 3/4" long bolts do you think 1" will be ok with washers stacked up?

 

Only thing you can do is try it and see You might just cut a little off a 1", instead of using washers. Make sure you've got something to test the threads, then plug and torque!

 

Put a nut on first, cut the bolt and unthread nut.

The nut should straighten out the threads....