Do you get pressure when you pump the pedal?

 

Have the calipers been replaced or removed? I'm asking because if they get switched side-to-side, it will be impossible to bleed the system.

Max

 

Do you get pressure when you pump the pedal?

Just a little when its on. But i really cant stop.

 

Have the calipers been replaced or removed? I'm asking because if they get switched side-to-side, it will be impossible to bleed the system.

Max

I did this weekend to put new brake pads on this weekend. I didnt have brake pedal pressure before it was removed too max.

 

As long as all of the components are operational & properly installed, the most likely culprit would be air in the lines.

What bleeding method are you using?

Max

 

As long as all of the components are operational & properly installed, the most likely culprit would be air in the lines.

What bleeding method are you using?

Max

Using 2 people to pump the lines. Making it where the pedal is held down while its tightened. Rr , Lr, Fr, Fl

 

Try getting a vacuum pump and bleeding them that way. Just did mine yesterday after an 8.8 swap. Did the whole system twice, by myself, and took her for a test drive today. Brakes wont better than new. I barely press the pedal and dam near lock up the brakes. I love em. Just a suggestion though.

 

I dont think i can get a vacuum bleeder. I dont know anyone around me with one :/

 

Try getting a vacuum pump and bleeding them that way. Just did mine yesterday after an 8.8 swap. Did the whole system twice, by myself, and took her for a test drive today. Brakes wont better than new. I barely press the pedal and dam near lock up the brakes. I love em. Just a suggestion though.

Good advice, especially with a problematic vehicle. Harbor Freight sells the kits pretty cheap.

Max

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html

Max

 

Good advice, especially with a problematic vehicle. Harbor Freight sells the kits pretty cheap.

Max

Jesus wish i knew that last week. I was in a harbor freight. Lol.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html

Max

I will def need to pick one up. That one work well man ? Do ua know by chance?

 

You have not done anything with the drum brakes by chance have you? I had one spring in each of the drums come off about 2 weeks after I did them because I put the springs in wrong and lost all break pressure on my way home from work. My foot went to the floor and it stopped but it was almost like coasting to a stop after down shifting, I don't know why but it seems if the back breaks don't work neither do the fronts.

 

Not yet. Ive only removed my front wheels to replace brake pads. I just dont get how i have pressure when its off but when its on nothing.

 

My jeep did the same thing, it turned out to be the brake booster vacuum (the round cyclinder connected to the prop valve and fire wall, behind the master cyl. They very rarely if ever go but mine did. Same thing, bleeded 1000x times, new brakes, rotors, drums etc and still no pressure. Replaced the brake vacuum and prop valve at the same time, worked like a charm. Hope that helps.

 

Are you getting any air from the system during the bleeding process? Any air bubbles or just clean fluid?

 

You say you failed to bench bleed the new master cyllender? If you did forget then I would imagine that being your problem. I have never been able to get all the air out of a new master cyl wothout bench bleeding first. In my experience it's always been a big deal and is printed all over the install directions.

I recommend properly bleeding your master cyl. Then I recommend cracking open all 4 bleeder valves on each tire and let gravity do the bleeding. By gravity bleeding the system you need to remember to constantly monitor mast cyl fluid level. Basically you let fluid flow via gravity through the lines and out the bleeder valves, after about 10 min you can start closing th starting with pass rear and so on....

1. Properly bench bleed your new master cyl.
2. Gravity bleed all four lines to eleminate even the remote possibility of there being air in your brake lines.

 

You say you failed to bench bleed the new master cyllender? If you did forget then I would imagine that being your problem. I have never been able to get all the air out of a new master cyl wothout bench bleeding first. In my experience it's always been a big deal and is printed all over the install directions.

I recommend properly bleeding your master cyl. Then I recommend cracking open all 4 bleeder valves on each tire and let gravity do the bleeding. By gravity bleeding the system you need to remember to constantly monitor mast cyl fluid level. Basically you let fluid flow via gravity through the lines and out the bleeder valves, after about 10 min you can start closing th starting with pass rear and so on....

1. Properly bench bleed your new master cyl.
2. Gravity bleed all four lines to eleminate even the remote possibility of there being air in your brake lines.

Yeah i made a noob mistake. Fought with stripped bolts on the old one for 5 hours with pb blaster and vicegrips. I will do that today. Gravity bleeding is just letting it out on its own rather then pedal push?

 

Yes. Crack open each bleeder valve starting with passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Loosen the "bleed screw" on your drums/calipers until you see fluid starting to dribble out the tip. DO NOT PRESS THE BRAKE PETAL, as pressing the pedal would force excess fluid out of the lines and upon releasing the pedal would simple pull air back up into the lines, thus wasting the fluid. You want to crack the bleeder screws and let the brake fluid dribble out thus forcing any air in the system out.

1. Crack open all 4 bleeder scews until all 4 are dripping about the same rate.
2. Leave all 4 lines open, be sure to keep sufficient fluid in the MC resevoir.
3. After lets say 10 minutes (shouldn't take this long, but better safe than sorry) close all 4 bleeder screws.
4. Refill MC and test for pressure.

Honestly, the time the screws need to stay open depends on how fast the fluid is coming out. You certainly wont "hurt" anything by simply letting the fluid run out on its own other than the mess having all 4 bleeder valves open creates. The point of letting the fluid run through the lines is that as long as the MC remains full, once new fluid goes from the MC to the brakes, there will no longer be air inbetween. The longer you leave them open the more likely you eliminated all the air in the system and there is nothing but fluid between your brakes and master cyllendar.

 

I have a friend that had his calipers on upside down and fought this for a couple days before he figured out to turn them around - then they bled out fine.

 

use the clear hose and soda bottle method.

 

I got it finally i think. I placed a piece of cardboard under my jeep last night. Woke up to 2 spots wet. One was my front brake line. It was cracked so i replaced it. Second spot was my left front brake caliper bolt. It was missing a washer so i bought 2 new ones. Autoparts store loves me. 3 visits in 3 days! Pedal is a tad spongy but brakes are working!

 

If you did not bench bleed the C before you put it on that is most likely the culprit...The way the MC sits when bolted up on the Jeep is at a slight upward angle, all the air gets trapped in the front of the MC. Try bench bleeding it and trying again, should cure the problem. If it is good when the vehicle is off, but goes to the floor when it is started you have to adjust the rear brakes. Pedal height comes from the rear brakes.
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/930880-13.pdf

Read through the link and you should be good to go.