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Jeep 304 Intake Gasket Problem

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17K views 24 replies 18 participants last post by  cjnube  
#1 ·
Rebuilding an AMC 304. I bought the Felpro complete gasket set, which came with the valley pan gasket. Now I am installing an Edelbrock 2131 intake using the 2131 installation instructions. The instructions call for using the Edelbrock 7213 (or similar) gasket. The Felpro kit does not appear to come with the intake to head gasket that looks like the Edelbrock gasket.

Am I only supposed to use the valley pan gasket or do I need to also use the intake gaskets described in the 2131 install instructions?
 
#4 ·
When I did my 360 last winter I used Gaskacinch around all ports and used the end gaskets that came with the kit, using just a little bit of Ultra RTV black. So far no leaks. You may have already uysed this trick but I'll mention it anyway, to get the valley pan to stay in place I cut off the heads of three bolts of the same intake manifold thread to length that'd juuust barely hold the gasket in place. I then cut a slot in the top of the heads so I could extract them later. Or another pair of hands may help too (sometimes I need a third arm comin' out of my forehead, none of my teenage zits grew long enough) :laugh:
 
#7 ·
[QUOTE Gus's idea is cheaper. Save yer bucks for gas for v/8 CJ5.[/QUOTE]

:laugh: I couldn't agree more.
 
#10 ·
I actually called Edelbrock when I did mine and they specifically said to use only the valley pan gasket and RTV.

I also bought a Fel-Pro valley pan and while it didn't have the recessed holes for location, it did have strategically placed tabs that you fold over when the pan is flexed in place. Nothing in the darn instructions about it, had to figure it out.
 
#12 ·
I actually called Edelbrock when I did mine and they specifically said to use only the valley pan gasket and RTV.

I also bought a Fel-Pro valley pan and while it didn't have the recessed holes for location, it did have strategically placed tabs that you fold over when the pan is flexed in place. Nothing in the darn instructions about it, had to figure it out.
Did you ask them why the heck their instructions specifically state to use the Edelbrock intake gaskets and the valley pan if they aren't needed? Also ask them if they are going to refund the money I wasted on their intake gaskets.

As to the valley pan gasket, I, too got the Fel-Pro gasket, so I don't understand why you guys aren't feeling the ridge around the outer bolt holes that holds the gasket in place. Maybe you have it upside down so the ridges aren't grabbing the bolt holes?
 
#11 ·
When I recieved motor from builder he does not use the valley pan (aka turkey sheet). I asked and he has re-built many AMC and said it is not needed if you are using the shield on bottom of intake under pcv location. This is the one that is riveted on bottom of manifold.

My motor was also decked on block and heads so unsure how the turkey sheet would fit in this instance?
 
#15 ·

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#17 ·
I tried that crappy metal valley pan gasket twice I have no faith in them they dont seal for crap even with silicone I had coolant leaks at all four corners. I went with the Edelbrock gasket and silicone and could not be happier, and I do not understand why people get rid of the rubber end seal they seal very well and for my installations they did not have a tendency to move at all they have nipples that help seat them in the block to keep them in place.
 
#18 ·
I when and pulled off the Mr. Gasket Intake Gasket, put on the Valley tray without the valley heat shield. I did use the rubber seals that came with valley tray. I put a bead of silicone around the all the coolant ports and dressed the outside edges of the rubber seals with a bead of silicone. I'll keep you posted on any leaks.
 
#19 ·
I put an edelbrock intake on my 360 last fall didn't pay enough attention to the instructions and used the rubber end pieces put it on took it off put it on took it off 3 times before I got them to stay in, next day popped the hood again and they were pushed out again. Looked at the instructions and it said not to use them... 4th time was the charm.
 
#20 ·
Without the heat shield attached to the intake, Keep an eye on your oil consumption between oil changes. Mine went waay up to 1 quart in 3,000. miles on a recent rebuild and 170 psi compression on all cylinder. The heat shield has a baffle below the PCV valve that keeps oil from being sucked up by the valve. The Edelbrock installation instructions also mentions this and now I know what the little holes on the bottom of the intake are for
 
#21 ·
Perhaps I'm lucky I was so busy at the time when I set up my 360 with the oil baffle "turkey pan" in place. In addition to using bolts with the head cut off and notched for screwdriver access to hold everything in place, I used gaskacinch around all ports and just a small dab of Permatex Ultra Black at the corners where the front and rear supplied rubber gaskets were in place. However I let time take command and let the sealants 'set up' before I torqued everthing down, perhaps that is the key? No leaks since last summer.
 
#23 ·
I have heard of others posting thread that used the conventional gaskets without an issue, when in doubt using OE is just my idiom.
 
#25 ·
just did it

i just did the same on my cj 5 304 and got the fel pro gasket and it was missing the rubber end seals so my awesome parts dealer helped me with and extra tube of high temp sealant worked out great for the biggest engine project i have done on an auto motor aircraft are so much diff still going to end up taking it off aging to make it cleaner to much sealant squeezed out