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Increasing bite & repsonsiveness in a tranny - 4.7 545RFE

5.9K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  uscav82  
#1 ·
HI all,

We all know the 545RFE is not a sports tranny, but I have this constant nag with all the 45RFE/545RFE 4.7 WJ's I have owned - but my current daily driver seems to annoy me more than most.

As everything is healthy, I get the normal stall speed of around 2250rpm roughly. i.e. with the brakes applied hard, this is the highest I can rev the engine before the car starts to move.

BUT, what I don't like is the lack of torque converter "bite" below these revs. If I drive very carefully (lightly) the shifts occur at 1200-1500rpm, which is fine, but if I pull away a little quicker, or try to increase my speed, pull up a hill or tow a load, the revs sit permanently at 2000rpm. If I then apply a little more throttle, the box shifts down hard and throws me and all my occupants backwards and shoots me up the road.

The tranny is faultless in all other areas - i.e. light throttle shifts, WOT shifts, if I drive harder or lighter etc, but in general use this issue annoys me.

I would like to add more "bite" to my torque converter to reduce this "slip" and the revs in normal driving.

If I drive around town with O/D off, it helps as it locks into 3rd at 30mph+, and the 4.7/4.7HO has sufficient power to be fine with that.

I have done the "torque management" mod (cut the wire) but that makes no difference in normal driving obviously.

I have read about a "line pressure mod" with a resistor (or kit) added to the wiring. This is designed to sharpen the shifts, but will it improve the TC bite?

The ONLY fault the car has is a Knock Sensor issue - I assume this is not related but it would be nice if it was.

Thanks for any feedback.



Relevant info: STOCK 2003 Overland 4.7 HO QD - Engine and tranny all serviced and good with all new fluids and filters about 1000miles ago. No other symptoms persist.
 
#2 ·
The torque converter locks up for cooling. No slip equals less heat. As you apply the throttle, to accelerate, the converter will unlock allowing better torque multiplication to accelerate. Apply more throttle and it downshifts, again for the torque. The stock converter can't handle staying locked up and accelerating. That clutch material would not last long. You would have to change to a lower stall speed converter, to get the motor not to rev to 2,000, when just normal driving and accelerating. This will also affect your accelerating all the time. It would be slower. The 4.7 does not have a ton of torque. The higher stall converter helps with acceleration.

Brian
 
#3 ·
Can anyway reading this do me a favor please:

Put your Jeep 4.7 into gear, hold the brake with your left foot as hard as you can and slowly press the throttle. What revs do you get before the brakes can't hold it any more please?

i.e. where is your torque converter biting?
 
#6 ·
I have read about a "line pressure mod" with a resistor (or kit) added to the wiring. This is designed to sharpen the shifts, but will it improve the TC bite?


I looked at the Superchips tuners, but wow, they are expensive for the small change I would like to make to my WJ.
 
#7 ·
I have read about a "line pressure mod" with a resistor (or kit) added to the wiring. This is designed to sharpen the shifts, but will it improve the TC bite?

I looked at the Superchips tuners, but wow, they are expensive for the small change I would like to make to my WJ.
For the record, currently running 91 Performance tune on mine and still don't really notice any difference in my shifts in daily driving.
 
#8 ·
Replace your knock sensor before you dig any further. Torque converter has a relatively simple job and it doesn't sound like that's the issue.

Knock sensor fault will result in the pcm pulling timing. There's power loss. Chrysler very well have a modified shift table as well when that sensor goes out. The pcm is trying to protect the engine.