You buy oil,bulbs,and brake cleaner at advance auto,not engines that you want to last longer then a few months.Look at Jasper reman's for the engine.

As far as pulling the engine it's not hard at all,just need a cherry picker and a 36"+ long extension for the top 2 bell housing bolts(you know what I'm talking about when you get that far).

 

LKQ is one source for used engines with a warranty. An engine pull is pretty involved, needing a cherry picker, a few tools etc. I would suggest you find a local to give you a hand, as its a bit more then reading instructions. Theres a chunk of weight you are dealing with, and one thing done wrong can destroy something, or get someone seriously hurt. I wouldnt even consider an engine from Advanced, AZ, or about any of the parts places really.

 

I found one for 3,320 from advanced just now. They come with a warrenty so I cant really see a prob with using them. Anyway I'll definitely check those other places and thanks for the input. I'd be pulling the engine with a chain fall and removing the hood. I build and service elevators so I think I can do this.

 

Problem with companies that rely on warranties, especially when you are doing the work... you dont want to have to use them. The companies that do the rebuilds for the parts store chains, dont have a strong reputation in the repair industry. Why? Because we dont like redoing work because of shortcuts and sloppy workmanship at the rebuilder's end. You end up with a pissed off customer, and in our case, we might get some labor reimbursement, but it rarely covers what we have invested. Via Jasper, which has a stronger reputation, but not as strong as an OE reman unit, $3400 bucks plus the install kit, which I strongly recommend, etc. Strong warranty nationwide. Not doubting your skills, but Ive worked with, and trained ex-GIs who worked on tanks, choppers, aircraft, etc, and some were good, alot were bad. I'm decent at what I do, but I wouldnt go tinkering on an elevator, unless I slept at a Holiday Inn Express last night,lol. If you've never done it, get a friend, preferably one with some experience, to chip in and help.

 

Thanks for the input. I got a buddy that has worked at a dealership for 15 years, a brotherinlaw who owns and works on his race car and another guy who owns his shop in Fairfax Va. So I'm good on having people if I need the help but thanks for the concern and I will look up those places to get a motor.

Okay now I take it nobody has any idea of a LINK to how to pull the engine?

 

Bump

 

Found a motor from jasper for 2500 and a few more on car-parts.com. That's not a bad site if your looking for a used motor.

Still hopping for some advise or a link for the motor replacement if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you
Jstick911

 

If you go to Alldata, or Mitchell on Demand, those sites have that info, but its pricey for access. Its going to be like finding instructions for installing an elevator. If you need step by step instructions for this, then you need a qualified partner to help you to keep you out of trouble. Basics are, remove battery, remove fan and fan shroud, starter, alternator, p/s pump, a/c compressor. Undo torque converter bolts/nuts, coolant hoses, fuel lines, electrical connectors, throttle cable, etc. Support transmission, undo bellhousing bolts, use already attached lift mechanism to partially support engine weight, remove motormount bolts, and lift. Thats the abridged version.

 

2005 KJ Liberty is the MAN!! Thanks man! Ive just never pulled a motor and needed to be put in simple terms. I'll post here forto let everyone know how it goes.
Thanks Again!

 

i replaced my motor at 230k got it from a place that sells re manufactured 3.7 / 4.7 and it was 2300 after i sent back my core with a 50k mile warranty. it is a lot of work replacing them. i found that the worst part for me was all of the connections with those annoying red clips on them ha ha. and my cheap solution for a motor lift was mounting my winch to the I-Beam in my garage and pulling it out. also make sure you have something to support the trans/t case. I know this i a little late but if you want the information for the company i got my motor from pm me. i also have pictures of the whole swap.

 

Nice man!! Yeah still waiting on my motor. Got it for about the same price. Will post pics and the total price when I'm done. Thanks for the reply!!

 

This is it coming out. Saw you pulled your grill and bumper, probably a lot easier but you don't have too. Supported my trans with a jack then a ratchet strap because I had to roll it back onto gravel. Posted a picture of the pick point too, shallow drill and tap to 3/8 standard thread. Held like a champ! I used quick bolts and a jam nut, only an elevator man would have thought of that. LOL.

should have the motor next week, takes forever because they are back ordered on them. That tells me a lot are going bad, wonder how many are #2 cylinder with not a lot of miles. Seemed like a big problem once I knew to google it.

You got any advice or pics of the install??

 

Also a pic of my HUGH wild toad I named Jasper who I feed every bug I could catch and a bronco from a car show.

 

jstick

Hope things go smoothly on your replacement.

And, by the way - nice toad. Keep feeding him till it's the size of a pie plate.

 

Took 5 weeks. Finally got my motor. $2906.25 was the total before the core. Should get 300 back.

 

Kittenmittens did you rig that motor by looping the chain through the header holes. By that I mean the in take ports that come off the header are connected by a 3/4 inch wide piece of aluminum with a hole underneath, did you loop a chain through that and have it hold?

 

Such as and such as? Lol

Notice the two clevis' on the chain to keep the weight from shifting. The smaller one that actually goes through the chain is rated 1/2 ton! With a safety rating being 3:1 that little thing will hold 3k!!!

I put a straight edge on the intake ports and hung it then put my 250# on it and they are still true.

 

Today I cleaned and painted my parts! Fun day!! Also a pic of your "innards" lol

 

Can someone please pop the hood in some good light and take some pics of the motor on a 2002 liberty sport?

The more the better. Looking for pics of the wiring harness on both sides of the motor top front and where ever you can fit a camera!! Please!!

Thanks!!
Jstick911

 

She's running!! Burning off the nut buster!! Thanks guys!! Inbox or post here if I can help anyone!!

 

Well, I am glad I found this thread. I am going to pull the motor in my wife's 2002 liberty. I have pulled v8's out of mustangs and some full size jeeps so I know the basics. I am checking with you guys for any 'gotchas' on this specific motor (or a newer motor for that matter). Are there tricks to the electrical connectors? How much did you take off the front of the motor to clear the pull? No flat tappet cam so is there a break in procedure? Anything in the order you would do different?

I see you both pulled the intake first, any reason for this? One left the exhaust manifolds on, the other didn't. Any issues leaving them on? Did it go in pretty easy with them attached? Oh, did you have to evacuate the A/C or were you able to move it off to the side.

Any special tools? I have a pretty complete tool set but is there anything like a belt tensioner or something weird I might need?

THanks for the help guys. The good news is the weather is getting nicer and we have other transportation so I don't have to 'hurry' the job. I have a local machine shop who will do the rebuild. I have used them for other motors and they are not cheap but they are good and I don't want to do this again.

BTW, on those warranty motors from some places. There is usually an 'must be installed by certified ASE mechanic' disclaimer so for us do it your self guys the warranty might not mean much.

 

I haven't pulled a 3.7L in KJ yet, but with alot of engines lately, the intake needs to come off first to make room on the backside. It also eliminates the potential of breaking a bunch of plastic stuff. If you can bust the y-pipe loose from the manifolds, that what some do, otherwise, alot just unbolt the manofolds from the heads in the engine bay prior to removal. They have to come off anyways.

 

Oh yeah! Plastic parts like intakes. That totally makes sense. Not a lot of plastic on 70's engines.

I'll see how it goes with the exhaust, a glance in the engine bay and it looks like there is plenty of working room around the sides.

 

If I forget anything let me know

Connectors are a pain. No special trick just push the safety on the clip and pinch the housing to release it.

I removed the intake to rig the motor for removal. You can loop the chain through the intake ports in the head.

I removed the exhaust because the connections at the Y pipe are flex joints and are welded in. You can snip that gasket and a donut gasket is available.

I took the ac compressor off the timing cover and zip tied it to the side where the the air box was. No need to disconnect. Same with the power steering pump.

Support the trans and disconnect the bell housing. You'll find the torque converter bolts are easy after removing the cover plate ate the rear of the oil pan. About 8 bolts as I remember.

 

The trans has 6 total bolts 4 from the rear and to from the front. The starter will be a bit of a pain. I disconnected it from the bell and disconnected the wiring from the motor mount when I had the motor half way out.

Let me know if I can help more and I'll try and check this post