Not on the Hemi but on the 4.7L, I have.

It was pretty easy, used an impact gun to pull the bolt and use a 3 Jaw puller, came right off. To install, place in position and use the bolt to seat it.

 

On the 5.7 it calls for a "special" tool to reinstall the pulley. All it really amounts to is a little longer bolt with a big washer on it. I found on the setup at my local industrial hardware place for cheap. You'll just need to use this setup to pull the pulley on far enough so the treads of the NEW BOLT (you'll need to get one) can pull it on the rest of the way. When you get the new bolt, check the treads real good, as I had to run a tap on the one I got from the stealer....after it started binding and wouldn't go smoothly into the crank. It might help to run the bolt in by hand BEFORE you install the new pulley....just to make sure it'll go in easily by hand. There is no keyway in the crank or woodruff key, so the pulley can go on any old way. If you're planning somewhere down the road to highly modify your engine (like maybe forced induction), you'll need to get the crank/pulley keyed so it won't slip/spin on the crank. Stock/mildly modified engines are no problem. I installed 25% underdrive pulleys on both my Hemi's. I was able to do both without removing the radiator, but the WK was harder to do than the LX because of the limited work space. Also, the puller you use should have a pin that goes into the bolt hole of the crank and doesn't contact the threads or outer part of the crank. If you use a puller that rides on the front of the crank and bolt hole, you'll risk damaging the threads. Good luck and let us know how this project goes.

Edit: Oh, be sure to torque it to the proper specs. too. I used a good quality strap wrench to keep the crank from moving. If you're using a stock pulley, you'll probably be able to wedge a large screwdriver or breaker bar into one of the spokes of the pulley. You'll just have to see what you can rest the other end to.

 

On the 5.7 it calls for a "special" tool to reinstall the pulley. All it really amounts to is a little longer bolt with a big washer on it. I found on the setup at my local industrial hardware place for cheap. You'll just need to use this setup to pull the pulley on far enough so the treads of the NEW BOLT (you'll need to get one) can pull it on the rest of the way. When you get the new bolt, check the treads real good, as I had to run a tap on the one I got from the stealer....after it started binding and wouldn't go smoothly into the crank. It might help to run the bolt in by hand BEFORE you install the new pulley....just to make sure it'll go in easily by hand. There is no keyway in the crank or woodruff key, so the pulley can go on any old way. If you're planning somewhere down the road to highly modify your engine (like maybe forced induction), you'll need to get the crank/pulley keyed so it won't slip/spin on the crank. Stock/mildly modified engines are no problem. I installed 25% underdrive pulleys on both my Hemi's. I was able to do both without removing the radiator, but the WK was harder to do than the LX because of the limited work space. Also, the puller you use should have a pin that goes into the bolt hole of the crank and doesn't contact the threads or outer part of the crank. If you use a puller that rides on the front of the crank and bolt hole, you'll risk damaging the threads. Good luck and let us know how this project goes. Edit: Oh, be sure to torque it to the proper specs. too. I used a good quality strap wrench to keep the crank from moving. If you're using a stock pulley, you'll probably be able to wedge a large screwdriver or breaker bar into one of the spokes of the pulley. You'll just have to see what you can rest the other end to.

Can I use the jaw puller set of 3 from harbor freight? I tried today with a crowbar and a breaker bar and it wasn't budging, I could've forced the bolt off but I didn't have a jaw puller so I was hesitant to actually move on and take off the bolt off and then not be able to remove it without a puller.

 

Be very careful you don't damage the front timing cover when you pry on things. Using the proper puller, it should come off real easy once the bolt is removed. You can remove the bolt with an impact gun or a 1/2 in. breaker bar after wedging one of the spoke of the pulley onto something like the sway bar, lower frame below the pulley, or?.....I don't remember which I wedged to. IIRC, it wasn't a big deal though. The puller you'll need will come with about a 1/4 in. hardened pin that will slide into and bottom out in the crank bolt hole. The puller will then contact just the pin and nothing on the crank. This will save your crank and the threads from being damaged. If you can't find a puller like that, you can probably use a small, good quality bolt long enough to bottom out in the crank bolt hole and pull against that.

 

This should go without saying but please don't hammer the new pulley on.
You'd be surprised.

 

So I'll grab a puller from harbor freight or AutoZone and for the installer I just basically need a longer size of the bolt from the balancer with a nut right?

 

They should have an install tool too.

 

That would be nice. I had to call around to several places before I found a longer "install" bolt to pull the damper on. As I said, get a new one for the one that holds the pulley in place. When I did mine I used the washer off the original bolt that held the pulley on. IIRC, it was kind of a bear to get off though....didn't just slide off. No nut is needed, just the bolt and the large washer.

so you got the new bolt for the damper from a hardware store or at AutoZone or something?

 

The NEW bolt you'll use once the pulley is on will have to come from the dealer. The one I used for a tool to pull the pulley on far enough so the NEW bolt can be screwed into the crank did come from a store similar to a large hardware store. I used the washer off the original pulley bolt as my washer for the tool. I had to call several places before I could find the correct size, thread pitch and length. First thing you'll need to do is get the bolt from the dealer. Then you'll know the size and thread pitch needed. I'll try to find the bolt I used and get you the length.

 

The NEW bolt you'll use once the pulley is on will have to come from the dealer. The one I used for a tool to pull the pulley on far enough so the NEW bolt can be screwed into the crank did come from a store similar to a large hardware store. I used the washer off the original pulley bolt as my washer for the tool. I had to call several places before I could find the correct size, thread pitch and length. First thing you'll need to do is get the bolt from the dealer. Then you'll know the size and thread pitch needed. I'll try to find the bolt I used and get you the length.

Alright thanks Keep me posted and I'll see if I can find it as well

 

The bolt you'll use as a tool is somewhat longer (how much longer is what I don't remember) than the factory bolt that ends up holding the pulley on. I can't find the one I used and I wonder if I gave it to my son for use at his shop. The only purpose for the longer bolt/washer is just to start screwing it in so it pulls the new pulley onto the crank far enough so you can engage the threads of the factory bolt/washer you get from the dealer. You'll pull it the rest of the way on with the factory bolt and then torque it to specification.

 

Sounds like a longer bolt of any size that fits would work as long as you could use washers to make up the difference?

 

Yes, I think it would too. They're pretty big washers though.

 

Indeed at least they were on my 98 5.9.

 

I need to do this ASAP!!
Just got a 2005 5.7 WK with 225K kms..
Noticed the balancer wobbling a fair bit.
$30 Doorman or $85 Mopar ???
I know nothing but this site gives me power0
I should do this, but if a shop did how long should it take?
Thanks

 

Don't cheap out on this part. Go Mopar. Kolak probably sells them.
I've never done one on a 5.7 but I did on my 5.9 zj. It wasn't that bad. There's a lot of video help on YouTube.

 

I agree, don't cheap out on this one. You'll be at the stealer anyway to pick up a new bolt. Another option is to go with an underdrive pulley like I did on both my Hemi's. No "actual" horsepower gain, but the accessories are driven easier due to the smaller diameter pulley which can seem like a little more hp. I've had mine on both for several years now and haven't had any problems (like some said I would) with low battery charge or lack of power steering, etc. As an example, my last battery in the Jeep lasted 7 years, about the last 3 with the UD pulley installed.

 

Is the srt8 pulley an underdrive pulley for the 5.7?

 

Not positive, but I think I've read or heard that it is a slight underdrive compared to the stock 5.7 pulley. It would be interesting to know and, if it is, how much of an underdrive. The ones on both of mine are SLP 25% UD.

 

I've noticed that my hb pulley has a little bit of budget in the rubber so I'm probably looking at replacing it sooner than later.

 

Ordered Mopar.
RockAuto lists part number 5037394AA for my 2005 JGC 5.7L
Mopar website has that for '07-'10 SRT8 and 4792815AA for me..

What gives??

 

Haha Kolak is the one trying to sell me $30 crown balancer now!
And RA is telling me part number 5037394AA will work while Mopar site lists that for the 6.1L. ( Mopar site has part # 4792815AA listed for me)
What to do?
Also I'd say the center of the balancer is wobbling about 1/4". Is this somethign that will immenently explode on me or can I keep driving until new part arrives..??
Thanks

 

It's kind of a time bomb. It may last months or it could give out today. There's no way to tell unless you drive it until it fails.
Kolak has all the part numbers. He sells a lot of Mopar stuff too.

 

Thanks.
I just cancelled my (possibly?) incorrect part coming from RA and PM'ed Kolak for the crown replacement...

 

Crown makes decent stuff. I've used their water pumps before.

 

On the 5.7 wk can you change out the HB without removing the Hyraulic fan and rad?

 

Yes, but it's a pretty good PITA. See my posts on this thread, No. 3 and No. 5. The length of the bolt I used as the "special" tool to install the new pulley is 4.75 inches long, and is the same size/thread pitch as the stock bolt. The stock bolt is 4.00 inches long. I used the washer off the old bolt too.

 

Missing some rubber from the back of my HB. Took some snake cam video but won't let me upload it. Has a tiny bit of wobble I feel causing the belt to make noise. No noticeable vibrations with the Hemi. The front of the harmonic balancer looks okay. ( I think)

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Ok to drive for a couple more days or disaster waiting to happen? I did mark the hub in the pully and the marks are staying aligned so I don't think it is slipping. Yet!

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