Up at the top of the TC is a round silver tag with red coloring. It will tell you what TC it is. It's most likely an NV-242. NV-247's were an option but verify it by the tag. You won't need gaskets for the diffs as most use gasket adhesive, but Lubelocker gaskets are the way to go. Your front diff appears to be a Dana 30 and the rear is probably a Dana 44, but the picture doesn't show enough of the diff to tell which 44 it is.

Check this link out for more info:

http://wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htm

 

hes right about the gasket maker. when working with this stuff you usually have about 15 mins before it drys up. when applying you should wait 2-3 mins just to let the stuff harden a little. then install and torque to spec diff cover.
by not letting it harden a little you risk the chance of it spreading uneven when you torque the cover. creating weak spots or potential leaks. its the way i do it and never have any problems.

 

Put your VIN into this and get your build sheet, it'll tell you exactly what you have. https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

 

I think you're rear differential and axle are a DANA 35C.

 

like wj60 said, just read the tag, or take a picture of it, and look at the picture. here's mine.


the diff you pictured is a dana 30 (front) and the back one needs a better pic, but appears to be a dana 35. a pic from the other side would work.

 

Thanks for all the help - that website was great - entered my vin and bang...

Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
Dana 35C/194MM Rear Axle

4-Speed Automatic Transmission 42RE
Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System

Ok - so now any advice on what fluids and quantity I need to service these? Can I use a hand pump to remove fluid rather than opening them up? Any advice on type to get and/or pump for adding new - or is that just poured in from bottle?

 

open up the diffs, and let them drain. you can look at the wear patterns on the gears, and check for broken/worn parts. on the transfer case, pop the fill plug before you go for the drain. you wanna know it will open, before you drain all the juice out, drain it through a coffee filter, and look for solids. i run atf+4 in my transfer case, and i run 90w synthetic with friction modifier in the pumpkins. your manual should indicate what you need, and quantities as well.

 

I have Mopar ATF+4 for my transfer case - but what brand should I get for differentials? Could I get away with pumping the old fluid out and then pumping the new fluid in?

 

i wouldn't bother trying, myself. you'll never get it all, and anything solid/metallic will still be sitting in the bottom. it's just 10 bolts, some brake cleaner, a new gasket, and some oil. one of the simpler things you can do. if you don't have a pan to catch the oil, cut down a 5 gallon bucket to about 1/3 it's height. i'd open it, catch the oil, look at it for solids, wipe out the pumpkin, spray the mounting surfaces and inside the cover, and put it back together.



i know you're in hoboken, and it's probably cold. don't know if you have a house or apartment, but you can easily do one diff in less than an hour. you could probably do them both in about an hour. the transfer case is 5-10 minutes, depending on what you use to replace the fluid. a large sheet of cardboard makes it easy to slide around under the jeep. pull the passenger wheels up on a curb (if you're in an apartment) and work there. that will give you room to work without jacks, if that's an issue for you.

 

Thanks for your help. Am I crazy to ask my mechanic to do all 3 things? If I do, then what all should I give him? ATF+4 and then what other fluids - should I use Mopar? I got the build list. Also what is the best gasket seal in a tube?

i wouldn't bother trying, myself. you'll never get it all, and anything solid/metallic will still be sitting in the bottom. it's just 10 bolts, some brake cleaner, a new gasket, and some oil. one of the simpler things you can do. if you don't have a pan to catch the oil, cut down a 5 gallon bucket to about 1/3 it's height. i'd open it, catch the oil, look at it for solids, wipe out the pumpkin, spray the mounting surfaces and inside the cover, and put it back together.

i know you're in hoboken, and it's probably cold. don't know if you have a house or apartment, but you can easily do one diff in less than an hour. you could probably do them both in about an hour. the transfer case is 5-10 minutes, depending on what you use to replace the fluid. a large sheet of cardboard makes it easy to slide around under the jeep. pull the passenger wheels up on a curb (if you're in an apartment) and work there. that will give you room to work without jacks, if that's an issue for you.

 

that's a piece of cake for a mechanic. you can help him by having the gaskets and the gear oil beforehand. if it was me, i wouldn't trust someone to do it, unless i was there watching it happen. he should have atf+4, but you might bring 2 quarts of that too, in case he tries to tell you he has something "better".



with a lift and power tools, it should only take an hour. if he tells you he can drain them without opening them, he's not a guy you want to work on your stuff. you want them drained, cleaned, resealed and refilled. it's your car, and your money. you tell him what you want, he doesn't tell you. (at east, that's how it would go with me, if i absolutely couldn't do it myself) wj60 gave you the info on the reusable gaskets. supply them, and your guy should know how to install them. make sure they aren't over-torqued.

 

Thanks. What type of gear oil is best for my Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
Dana 35C/194MM Rear Axle

Should I get these?

LUBE LOCKER LLR-D030 Lubelocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RAAOJW/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_3TgWFbSR04YGP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

LUBE LOCKER LLR-D035 Lubelocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RACMHE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_LSgWFb6X3W4CR

DORMAN HELP! 65293 Differential Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO96JA/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_HVgWFbDGHERT5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

that's a piece of cake for a mechanic. you can help him by having the gaskets and the gear oil beforehand. if it was me, i wouldn't trust someone to do it, unless i was there watching it happen. he should have atf+4, but you might bring 2 quarts of that too, in case he tries to tell you he has something "better".

with a lift and power tools, it should only take an hour. if he tells you he can drain them without opening them, he's not a guy you want to work on your stuff. you want them drained, cleaned, resealed and refilled. it's your car, and your money. you tell him what you want, he doesn't tell you. (at east, that's how it would go with me, if i absolutely couldn't do it myself) wj60 gave you the info on the reusable gaskets. supply them, and your guy should know how to install them. make sure they aren't over-torqued.

 

you live in a different climate than me, with a seriously different set of driving conditions. i'm currently running amsoil 90 synthetic, with mopar friction modifier (even though i don't have a sure-grip unit) maybe someone from your area can relate what they're running. freezing temps, and city driving is a lot different from long straight open roads, and temps that rarely go below 70 degrees. worse case scenario, run what the manual says to run.

 

WJJEEPS is a great resource.
http://wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htm
Recommended fluid for non-varilok D35c and D30 is 80w-90 multiweight. You will not need the friction modifier if you do not have variloks, but you can if you want, it will not hurt anything.
Lubelockers are good, I have them installed. They will hold up for a couple changes, but then they will leak. The best part about them is that they are way easier to use than silicone gasket maker in a tube, but are a lot more expensive.

 

You will not need the Dorman plug, just reuse your existing rubber plug. Unless yours is trashed, of course.

Oh, and any decent mechanic can knock out this job in short order, it is not hard. That said, I have had experiences where the mechanic simply failed to refill the diff before giving it back to me which absolutely killed the bearings ... and that was from a "5-star" Jeep dealer.