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Fuel rail schrader valve core

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14K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  bob.windnwater  
#1 ·
So I've noticed longer cranking times to start the longer my Jeep sits. Did some looking, and through a bunch of cleaning and checking, I have discovered that my fuel rail schrader valve test port is slowly leaking down. It's not dripping, not spraying, but if I dry out the valve with a paper towel, in a minute or two, there will be fuel once again filling the valve. It's enough that over a day or two of sitting, there is no pressure left in the fuel system, so I have to let it sit before cranking, or just crank a little longer.

What I am wondering is if anyone knows what it would take to replace the core and cap. My cap is missing, so I need a new one anyways, but I think if I replace the core maybe it will stop leaking. I just don't know if all cores are universal or if it's specific to the engine. What about caps? Yes, I know I could go to the junkyard, and I may end up doing that, but I'd rather order from the comfort of AC and home. :D

94 GC Laredo
4.0L inline 6

TIA for the help and info!
 
#4 ·
Called the dealership. Part was not individually available, only the discontinued entire fuel rail no longer available. No parts store has something specific for the 4.0l. Lots of generic online, but I don't know the specs for what size this valve is, so I don't know what generic part to buy. I have already removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the valve core with no change, hence the reason I am here asking for help.

Thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming!
 
#7 ·
That's not a chance I'm going to take with a gasoline valve that if it fails is going to spray gas directly on to the exhaust header and start a fire. I have looked at some vehicle specific kits and generic ones and every one of them comes with the warning to only use a valve core specific to the gasoline test port as the gas could disentegrate washers from AC line test port valve cores. Plus, the outside diameter is larger than a tire valve, so I would imagine that the core would be larger too. Might be wrong, but it makes sense to me.

I've never removed the fuel rail valve core, but I don't think it's anything special. Release fuel rail pressure, remove valve core and take a look..

That being said, I'd start with what highlonesome suggested: slightly tighten the valve core and check if the leak stops.
Already did, as mentioned in my last post. No luck, still seeping. It might have slowed down a little, but it hasn't stopped and I don't want to overtighten and strip the core.

I know I can get cores for a variety of valves. I just don't know the size, the standard, for this valve. If someone knows the actual name (NPT size 8, or GM Standard X, or whatever), then I can buy the correct replacement. Since they often come in packs of 5 or more on Amazon, I'd rather not end up with 25 unusable cores and 4 that I no longer need because I bought 6 different sizes hoping one of them would be the right one. If no one knows, no biggie. Just thought I would pick some brains and see what came up.
 
#6 ·
I've never removed the fuel rail valve core, but I don't think it's anything special. Release fuel rail pressure, remove valve core and take a look..

That being said, I'd start with what highlonesome suggested: slightly tighten the valve core and check if the leak stops.
 
#9 ·
If the weather holds and I can ride the motorcycle, I'll do that. This is my sole means of transportation other than my bike, and it has been raining something fierce the last few days, so pulling the core for comparison has not really been an option. Not sure where the closest Napa is, but I did find a pick n pull fairly close that might end up being the solution.
 
#10 ·