As long as they are the correct size (OEM style and size) they should work. They do just press on and go past the raised stop or lip on the steel line and hold. You can also get fuel injected rated rubber hose and clamps and go that route at either end of the steel lines.

 

Thanks! Like a lot of things so far that I'm learning to do, it's not that difficult...just I've never done this before so I appreciate the feedback!

 

I have a set of good condition OEM lines if you're interested. Make me an offer.

 

I wouldn't use plastic connectors. If your old ones are ruined I'd try to find some metal ones. Check RockAuto or something like that. Some auto parts stores carry them as well.

If it's just your hoses that are ruined, you can cut the crimp off of the quick connector and pull the hose off. Then you just put a new hose on with fuel injection clamps.

 

fuel quick disconnects

I tried to get replacement o-rings and teflon spacers from inside the fuel line connector. OEM part numbers are 8350 2745 for the 5/16" line and 8350 4447 for the 3/8" line repair kit. the OEM repair kits are obviously not available any more. Crown automotive make a repair kit with the same part numbers, the problem is they only have the plastic clip type...mine uses metal retainers.
I found a Dorman part#800-025 for replacement metal line retainers. Im hoping to use the new o-rings and teflon spacer and combine them with the Dorman metal retainer. Anyone got a better solution? Im nervous about eliminating the quick disconnect system in favor of rubber hose and clamp. Anyone swapped to a hose and clamp setup?

 

Yes, people do that, but you usually flare the line first. I kept my quick-disconnects but cut the old hose off and put new hose on the old QDs using hose clamps.

 

Don't overthink it, have used hose clamps and rubber hoses on plenty of vehicles with no issues. I like to use two clamps second one is redundant safety.

 

If you use any hose clamps go with the ones designed for fuel injection hoses. They have much better clamping force. They look like these. A lot of local parts stores carry them.

https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Hose-Clamps-Pack-x/dp/B0040CU0JA

 

I’ve had several people mention to me about flaring fuel lines when going to hoses from the factory nylon shrink lines.
I did attempt to flare mine, but the stainless steel just wouldn’t do it in my trusty OTC dbl flaring set. Lube them up a little so they slip in the hose a long way, dbl up the fuel injection hose clamps, and don’t worry be happy. That’s what I did and I’m still happy.

 

I've had several people mention to me about flaring fuel lines when going to hoses from the factory nylon shrink lines.
I did attempt to flare mine, but the stainless steel just wouldn't do it in my trusty OTC dbl flaring set. Lube them up a little so they slip in the hose a long way, dbl up the fuel injection hose clamps, and don't worry be happy. That's what I did and I'm still happy.

Sometimes a single flare is the answer. You are dealing with fuel. It can and does cause fire. It is under a reasonable amount of pressure these days. I agree that your solution has worked for many. Double clamps, etc. I do this for a living though and have to deal with complaints, lawsuits, legalities, etc. Some raised edge of some sort be it only a single flare or even a barbed connection is desirable. I lean to the side of overly cautious but have to do so to protect my family from BS.

There are fuel line repair kits available that are very comprehensive. I would not shy away from a connector because it is plastic. Many factory connectors are plastic.

Yes, I have used clamps on even my own vehicles, would never do so without some sort of a flare though.... Like I said, a single flare or bubble provides at least some resistance to a line just being able to blow off.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I’m going to order the Crown QD repair kit and try to replace the o-rings with the ones from the kit, then swap the plastic retainer with a Dorman metal clip. That should return the setup as close to factory as possible. If that fails, I’ll pick up a flaring kit, get some fuel injection clamps and rated hose and eliminate the quick disconnect altogether. Cheers!!

 

Here are those repair kits for the 5/16” and 3/8” lines...only come with the plastic connector.

 

Here are those repair kits for the 5/16" and 3/8" lines...only come with the plastic connector.

Bringing up this old tread!

I bought those repair kits in order to renew the front fuel lines (dry rotted).

Any instruction how to remove the old "inserts" and O-rings?

According to the workshop manual these quick connectors cannot be repaired.

Solved! The repair kits cannot be used as supposed on the '94 connector - only the o-rings and the spacer between them. Was a bit annoying to remove and insert the o-rings with a small screw driver.

 

I should pull an AvE and rig up my discarded nylon flex gas lines to a psi gauge.
And then take the ss hardlines off the old frame and clamp some fuel hose on with fi clamps and test that.

I have this gut feeling a double-clamped 300psi hose won’t blow off at 130 psi. Maybe the vinyl lines oem will take it, but those press-fit oring repair ends might not...

Either way i don’t think a YJ fuel pump will even get to 70psi ever.

 

Here are the results from the Dorman fuel line repair kits I purchased. I ended up replacing the vinyl hoses with fresh 5/16” lines. Heated them with a heat gun to bend them to shape and install the new Dorman quick disconnects. The pressure line has a 5/16” quick disconnect and the return is an odd 3/8” quick disconnect that steps down to a 5/16” line. The rubber lines were replaced with 5/16” fuel injection hose and fuel injection clamps. I replaced the metal quick disconnects with 5/16” Dorman metal units. I didn’t need to flare anything as the factory metal lines are flared already, and the Dorman metal parts are flared also. Very easy repair. I can provide all the part numbers from the Dorman catalogue if people are interested. This is for a 1992 wrangler 4.0l.
I’ll be posting my entire rebuild of the Jeep when it gets close to completion. It’s a full restoration.

 

Here are the results from the Dorman fuel line repair kits I purchased. I ended up replacing the vinyl hoses with fresh 5/16" lines. Heated them with a heat gun to bend them to shape and install the new Dorman quick disconnects. The pressure line has a 5/16" quick disconnect and the return is an odd 3/8" quick disconnect that steps down to a 5/16" line. The rubber lines were replaced with 5/16" fuel injection hose and fuel injection clamps. I replaced the metal quick disconnects with 5/16" Dorman metal units. I didn't need to flare anything as the factory metal lines are flared already, and the Dorman metal parts are flared also. Very easy repair. I can provide all the part numbers from the Dorman catalogue if people are interested. This is for a 1992 wrangler 4.0l.
I'll be posting my entire rebuild of the Jeep when it gets close to completion. It's a full restoration.

Jiminy cricket that's a clean engine!! It looks great!

 

Im interested. I need to get my ‘93 yj back on the road.