When the check engine light comes on and it's the P-0171 code it's time to clean your o2 sensor. Dealer wants 170 plus 100 for labor. You can get them for 120 online. Under 100 if you don't mind aftermarket. Don't waste your $ though before you clean it first. It's just full of soot.
This is a top side job. No jacks, ramps or busted knuckles involved. The connector is right on top by the shock mount It has three attachment points along the wire path and the o2 sensor is the top sensor as you look down the back passenger side of the engine compartment.
Grab yourself either a 7/8" or 22mm ? wrench, a crescent wrench and a small hammer. Remove the engine cover and the foam egr sound pad. (Good time to clean the egr pipe too while you are motivated.). YouTube can show you that. If you have access to a nice o2 socket this job will become much easier, but without it, it's still doable.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3...ols|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItvaUhaWT1QIVTB2BCh1HpwRLEAQYASABEgLYoPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Get the wrench on the sensor vertically. Hopefully you will have just enough room to tap the wrench towards the passenger fenders and loosen the sensor. Once it's budged you can use a shorter crescent wrench to turn it until it spins freely. 1/8 is usually all it takes.
Now it's time to get those clips open. Two are easy and one is a PITA. But since I spent the time with a mirror pondering and scheming how to do t, it won't take you any time. On the clip that attaches just out of view under the whatchamacallit all you need to do is use your fingernail and slide the two halves apart. ( think of a split lock washer). It takes barely any effort but you have to hit it just right with your nail. No prying or pulling necessary, just a swipe with your nail. The other two I'll let you figure out on your own.,, if you can't get those, just close the hood and call your dealer.....
Once you get the wire out and straight it makes turning the sensor much easier and it comes right out.
My sensor was like an uncircumcised dick. Sorry for the picture in your head but now you get the gist. There was carbon built up inside the outer sheath and the center hole. I used a combination of a small paint brush, carb cleaner and compressed air to clean it all out. I thought I had all the carbon removed but a quick shot of compressed air blackened my hand, arm, shirt, wall, and everything else within a 3' radius... use caution, or maybe just a rag...
Reassembly is easy, but use some antisieze on the threads for ease next time... and there will be a next time. I'm currently at 70k miles and other than the catalytic swap early on I have been blessed with this thing. I've read the horror stories, cam gear slipping, def fluid injector. The only thing we're dealing with is the shudder but I'm really not in the mood to let some dealer hack swap out half my engine when all it needs is some heavy foot driving to fix it. Soon it will be mine ( and not the baby foot wife's ). And all will be good.
Btw. This is the 1:1 sensor part number 68146231AB. Best price I found was amazon thru mymoparparts.
Cheers and hopefully this will save you some $ and headaches.
This is a top side job. No jacks, ramps or busted knuckles involved. The connector is right on top by the shock mount It has three attachment points along the wire path and the o2 sensor is the top sensor as you look down the back passenger side of the engine compartment.
Grab yourself either a 7/8" or 22mm ? wrench, a crescent wrench and a small hammer. Remove the engine cover and the foam egr sound pad. (Good time to clean the egr pipe too while you are motivated.). YouTube can show you that. If you have access to a nice o2 socket this job will become much easier, but without it, it's still doable.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3...ols|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItvaUhaWT1QIVTB2BCh1HpwRLEAQYASABEgLYoPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Get the wrench on the sensor vertically. Hopefully you will have just enough room to tap the wrench towards the passenger fenders and loosen the sensor. Once it's budged you can use a shorter crescent wrench to turn it until it spins freely. 1/8 is usually all it takes.
Now it's time to get those clips open. Two are easy and one is a PITA. But since I spent the time with a mirror pondering and scheming how to do t, it won't take you any time. On the clip that attaches just out of view under the whatchamacallit all you need to do is use your fingernail and slide the two halves apart. ( think of a split lock washer). It takes barely any effort but you have to hit it just right with your nail. No prying or pulling necessary, just a swipe with your nail. The other two I'll let you figure out on your own.,, if you can't get those, just close the hood and call your dealer.....
Once you get the wire out and straight it makes turning the sensor much easier and it comes right out.
My sensor was like an uncircumcised dick. Sorry for the picture in your head but now you get the gist. There was carbon built up inside the outer sheath and the center hole. I used a combination of a small paint brush, carb cleaner and compressed air to clean it all out. I thought I had all the carbon removed but a quick shot of compressed air blackened my hand, arm, shirt, wall, and everything else within a 3' radius... use caution, or maybe just a rag...
Reassembly is easy, but use some antisieze on the threads for ease next time... and there will be a next time. I'm currently at 70k miles and other than the catalytic swap early on I have been blessed with this thing. I've read the horror stories, cam gear slipping, def fluid injector. The only thing we're dealing with is the shudder but I'm really not in the mood to let some dealer hack swap out half my engine when all it needs is some heavy foot driving to fix it. Soon it will be mine ( and not the baby foot wife's ). And all will be good.
Btw. This is the 1:1 sensor part number 68146231AB. Best price I found was amazon thru mymoparparts.
Cheers and hopefully this will save you some $ and headaches.
