It seems I'm going to be puling Thumper's transmission again(2nd time in a month), and this time I'm going to build a transmission adapter. Building, as spending hundreds on a specialty tool I hope to never use isn't something I can afford, and all the trans jacks I can buy are designed to work on concrete/asphalt, I'm working on grass(with a very spalled old barn foundation a couple inches down, so the wheels aren't even possible to use)
My plan is a pin(part of he front spindle of an '87 Ford ranger 2WD ground down to fit into the hole in the jack(OLD all steel Harbor Freight Pittsburg 3-ton), with a 1/2"x2.5" steel bar(on flat) on top of that for structure,then extended length to forward angle iron frame on top to hold the transmission(U-shape welded up of unequal length angle iron bed frame material(12.5"(trans pan is 12" wide)x19".) Point of the extra length is that it creates a channel that I can slide the transmission forward onto the engine while still supported.
I'm considering adding a couple weldable hinges and a second, thinner piece of bar between the 1/2" bar and the angle iron, to allow some pivot to line things up. That would only allow pivot in one direction(tilt forward upward), meaning I could pull down the rear of the trans to get that angle right. I'd initially considered putting slices of pipe in between, alternating welds to create a hinge. The downsides of the latter being a hinge with too much range and needing to basically balance the transmission, on that point, making the slide function near impossible. Another downside of that is the height loss, as I can barely get the Jeep high enough to slide the trans underneath on the ground, so the process is to slide the trans under,lift it up via ratchet straps between the "uniframe" rails(last time I used holes in the webs between the rockers uniframe rails, although the hooks on the straps did tear through the metal a bit) and, high enough to get the jack under, then jack it up into place(last time, a chunk of 2x4 on top of the jack was all I had.)
I'm also considering adding a thinner sheet metal floor to it, using 4u rack panels, but not sure it's necesary, and also suspect the lips between panels may cause a risk. Another option may be to add plastic sliders on the side angle irons to reduce friction, but I don't have that in stock and the best I can come up with on short notice is rather rough commercial kitchen cutting boards.
Sketchup of the design, sans the hinge mechanism. Just drew this up for this post.
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Not sure on how to accomplish side to side adjustment, but not sure that'd be a good idea anyway, as the rather narrow footprint of the jack this is being to deigned to fit may result in a tip over. May set the jackup at an angle, so I can, with excessive force drag it side to side.
My plan is a pin(part of he front spindle of an '87 Ford ranger 2WD ground down to fit into the hole in the jack(OLD all steel Harbor Freight Pittsburg 3-ton), with a 1/2"x2.5" steel bar(on flat) on top of that for structure,then extended length to forward angle iron frame on top to hold the transmission(U-shape welded up of unequal length angle iron bed frame material(12.5"(trans pan is 12" wide)x19".) Point of the extra length is that it creates a channel that I can slide the transmission forward onto the engine while still supported.
I'm considering adding a couple weldable hinges and a second, thinner piece of bar between the 1/2" bar and the angle iron, to allow some pivot to line things up. That would only allow pivot in one direction(tilt forward upward), meaning I could pull down the rear of the trans to get that angle right. I'd initially considered putting slices of pipe in between, alternating welds to create a hinge. The downsides of the latter being a hinge with too much range and needing to basically balance the transmission, on that point, making the slide function near impossible. Another downside of that is the height loss, as I can barely get the Jeep high enough to slide the trans underneath on the ground, so the process is to slide the trans under,lift it up via ratchet straps between the "uniframe" rails(last time I used holes in the webs between the rockers uniframe rails, although the hooks on the straps did tear through the metal a bit) and, high enough to get the jack under, then jack it up into place(last time, a chunk of 2x4 on top of the jack was all I had.)
I'm also considering adding a thinner sheet metal floor to it, using 4u rack panels, but not sure it's necesary, and also suspect the lips between panels may cause a risk. Another option may be to add plastic sliders on the side angle irons to reduce friction, but I don't have that in stock and the best I can come up with on short notice is rather rough commercial kitchen cutting boards.
Sketchup of the design, sans the hinge mechanism. Just drew this up for this post.
Not sure on how to accomplish side to side adjustment, but not sure that'd be a good idea anyway, as the rather narrow footprint of the jack this is being to deigned to fit may result in a tip over. May set the jackup at an angle, so I can, with excessive force drag it side to side.
