I know this is a newbie question but...What is the difference between "lockers" and "locking hubs"
Difference between lockers and locking hubs
st3dnut
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Lockers are what you install inside the differential, and they make it were both wheels spin simultaneously. Locking hubs allow you to unlock and lock your deferential to keep from robbing power, dragging, and better gas mileage. This help explain it?
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Pretty much ^
A locker IS the differential. But it has the capability of locking the axles together so they both turn with no slippage.
A locking hub, think of it this way: It connects the outer end of the axle to your wheel. Unlock it, and the wheel spins free. Lock it, and it's connected to the axle.
A locker IS the differential. But it has the capability of locking the axles together so they both turn with no slippage.
A locking hub, think of it this way: It connects the outer end of the axle to your wheel. Unlock it, and the wheel spins free. Lock it, and it's connected to the axle.
A hub is pretty much what separates a 2WD from a 4WD, lol. It doesnt mean you have 4 wheels pulling, but it means you have one wheel in the back and one wheel in the front pulling.
This is where a locker comes into play, put one in the front or rear, or both. And you have 3-4 weels pulling at all times - as long as your hubs up front are locked in.
This is where a locker comes into play, put one in the front or rear, or both. And you have 3-4 weels pulling at all times - as long as your hubs up front are locked in.
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The replies about lockers (locking differentials) sound fairly good. I thought I'd add some comments on locking hubs:
Locking hubs enable the connection or disconnection of the front wheels to the front driveshafts. You don't want the front driveshafts engaged when you're riding around the street in 2 wheel drive high because that puts wear on the parts and cuts into your MPG.
Older (pre early 80's?) locking hubs had to be twisted (engaged or disengaged) manually. Newer ones engage automatically but were disengaged by driving backward several feet after the transfer case was shifted back to 2 wheel drive. The benefit of course is that the automatic ones don't require you to get out of the vehicle to engage/disengage them. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on any of this
Locking hubs enable the connection or disconnection of the front wheels to the front driveshafts. You don't want the front driveshafts engaged when you're riding around the street in 2 wheel drive high because that puts wear on the parts and cuts into your MPG.
Older (pre early 80's?) locking hubs had to be twisted (engaged or disengaged) manually. Newer ones engage automatically but were disengaged by driving backward several feet after the transfer case was shifted back to 2 wheel drive. The benefit of course is that the automatic ones don't require you to get out of the vehicle to engage/disengage them. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on any of this
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Correct. With the hubs locked, and lockers installed, all 4 wheels will spin, even if in the air.
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One thing that gave me a good understanding of how differentials work (and why lockers do what they do) is building Lego sets. They usually have one or two models at any given time that have a functioning differential gear set. That's an easy way to grab one tire to prevent it from spinning, and then turn the driveshaft or the other tire and learn how the gears react.
This is a great video on how differentials work. It is old, but good. The "tech" starts at about 1:50 into the video.
Around the Corner : Handy (Jam) Organization : Free Download & Streaming : Internet Archive
Around the Corner : Handy (Jam) Organization : Free Download & Streaming : Internet Archive
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A 'Locker' is a differential carrier that senses the load on the axles, and 'Locks' axles together when one wheel is slipping.
A locker would be located in the large, center section of the axles (Differential Housing).
Drive shaft power goes in, turns the PINION gear,
The Pinion gear tuns the RING gear on the Differential Carrier, turning the power flow 90° out to the axles/wheels.
The job of the differential is to allow one wheel to move faster than the other wheel when you go around turns.
The inside wheel moves much slower than the outside wheel,
The 'Differential' allows that outside wheel to move faster.
The purpose of a 'Locker' is to lock those wheels together when one is slipping during forward motion.
By turning BOTH axles at the same rate, you get even pull on BOTH sides,
Where normally you only get pull on ONE OR THE OTHER without a locker.
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The Lockouts on the ends of the axles are there to connect your axles directly to the drive hubs where the wheels bolt on.
(Misnomer when you call them locking 'HUBS',
The Lockout is an entirely different part from a 'Hub' and the two shouldn't be confused.)
The idea of a 'Lockout' is to allow the hub/drive/wheel flange to freewheel,
Free of the axle.
So when you don't need 4 wheel drive, the front wheels are free and aren't driven by the front axles/differential.
This saves fuel, makes the vehicle steer much easier, and saves a bunch of wear and tear on the drive line parts (axles/U-joints/ect.) when you don't need 4 wheel drive.
The 'Lockout' allows the wheel to spin free,
Or lock to the axle so the front wheels drive.
Clear as mud?
Jeephammer the explanation is actually very clear. I may never understand as well as yourself or the others that have helped with there info but that's what's great about this forum. I have always understood the locking hubs purpose but the not the rest of it. Thanks again everyone! One thing I'm still confused about, if lockers are installed on the rear axle so that both wheel always turn at the same spend during normal highway driving, does that cause excessive wear on the rear axle? Or does it only affect the front because the affects of turning has such a larger effect on the front axle? I think that makes sense!
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As I continue to bounce around the forum to tie up the lose ends, I figure i'll try to revive this conversation. I've read tons on the differentials...clear on that. Lockers make perfect sense...all good there. But, still a bit foggy on front axle lockouts.
My CJ has lockouts on the front axles. I understand that these are NOT lockers....and I understand that these should be unlocked during normal street driving. Here is where I need some help....what am I actually gaining when I engage the lockouts? Should these only be locked when going into 4WD? What is gained by locking and staying in 2WD? Things to be aware of for all scenerios?
If I answer my own question after more searching, I'll post back in case anyone else can be helped by my ignorance....Cheers.
My CJ has lockouts on the front axles. I understand that these are NOT lockers....and I understand that these should be unlocked during normal street driving. Here is where I need some help....what am I actually gaining when I engage the lockouts? Should these only be locked when going into 4WD? What is gained by locking and staying in 2WD? Things to be aware of for all scenerios?
If I answer my own question after more searching, I'll post back in case anyone else can be helped by my ignorance....Cheers.
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Yes. This drives the front wheels.
Nothing.
You'll be spinning the front shafts, differential, and driveshafts from the wheels, not the drivetrain. There is no reason to put the extra resistance on your Jeep. It will reduce gas mileage and increase wear on components that could be stationary.
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The answer to this question lies in understanding the system and how it operates.
Start with a standard rear wheel drive auto. Power is sent from the engine through the transmission to the rear differential, where it turns the tires via the axles. A four wheel drive system works the same except power is also sent to the front drivetrain (which basically mirrors the rear) via the transfer case. Early on, it was found that you couldn't drive a four wheel drive vehicle on hard surfaces with all four tires engaged due to the different rotational speeds of the tires. In order to correct this, manufactures designed the transfer case so you can disengage the front axle, allowing for rear wheel drive only. This works well, however, with the front hubs (wheels) locked to the axles with drive flanges, the front tires will turn the front axles, diff, and driveline when the vehicle is moving. While no power is being applied to the front components, they are still rotating, causing parasitic drag as well as added vibrational issues and general unneeded wear and tear on the components. Some sharp guy's got to looking at the situation and thought if the drive flanges could be replaced by a component that could easily disengage the hub from the axle, then they could allow the front tires to "freewheel", effectively eliminating all those rotating front driveline components. This is where locking hubs were born. Since these hubs were being manafactured by independent makers, they were considered a factory option well into the late seventies.
Most vehicles can be operated on hard surfaces with the front hubs either engaged or disengaged as long as the transfercase is in 2 wheel drive. This is a great thing for those living in snowy areas as they can leave the hubs engaged all winter long and simply shift in and out of four wheel drive from inside the cab via the t case shifter.
For those who choose to run extended periods with the hubs engaged it is important to inspect the front axle u joints and service the front spindle bearings and seals at least once a year.
Start with a standard rear wheel drive auto. Power is sent from the engine through the transmission to the rear differential, where it turns the tires via the axles. A four wheel drive system works the same except power is also sent to the front drivetrain (which basically mirrors the rear) via the transfer case. Early on, it was found that you couldn't drive a four wheel drive vehicle on hard surfaces with all four tires engaged due to the different rotational speeds of the tires. In order to correct this, manufactures designed the transfer case so you can disengage the front axle, allowing for rear wheel drive only. This works well, however, with the front hubs (wheels) locked to the axles with drive flanges, the front tires will turn the front axles, diff, and driveline when the vehicle is moving. While no power is being applied to the front components, they are still rotating, causing parasitic drag as well as added vibrational issues and general unneeded wear and tear on the components. Some sharp guy's got to looking at the situation and thought if the drive flanges could be replaced by a component that could easily disengage the hub from the axle, then they could allow the front tires to "freewheel", effectively eliminating all those rotating front driveline components. This is where locking hubs were born. Since these hubs were being manafactured by independent makers, they were considered a factory option well into the late seventies.
Most vehicles can be operated on hard surfaces with the front hubs either engaged or disengaged as long as the transfercase is in 2 wheel drive. This is a great thing for those living in snowy areas as they can leave the hubs engaged all winter long and simply shift in and out of four wheel drive from inside the cab via the t case shifter.
For those who choose to run extended periods with the hubs engaged it is important to inspect the front axle u joints and service the front spindle bearings and seals at least once a year.
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