Just curious, what do you need a D60 for? Are you V8 swapping? And do you plan to swap the rear as well?

 

I can scratch that itch if you like, but I am still hoping for some good input still.

-I bought my first CJ to learn to wrench, I have this YJ to learn to build myself exactly what I want in a jeep. slow process but if I stop project hunting I will never get any closer to learning through experience and this is my hobby. Wheeling a few times a year is just a bonus for me.

- I have seen way to may locked Dana 30 snap shafts religiously to be comfortable with the axle. good wheeling buddy runs a Grand V8 and aussie. he can't make it 3 hours on a set of shafts.

-I have no interest at all in a V8. They are nice but overkill for wheeling any place I have ever seen. my 4.0 blows again, I will put a third one in, and so on.

- my wifes and I plan is to trailer this out west eventually with the kids and run MOAB, the rublicon, and anything else we can. I need a solid set up to bring my girls, I dont mind being stranded but if I can off set that risk with a set of 60's I will. I want overkill drive train strength, not power. so with normal maintenance I don't have to spend as much time fixing after trips.

-its coming with a 14 bolt rear but I don't want it, too big vs clearance. I have two thoughts and am undecided on what to do. get the front 60 down to 5 on 5.5 and use wheel spacers and adapters for the 8.8 just until I get ready for Phase III of my plan. this is make it wheelable for a while. OR go grab a dana 60 rear for $100 or less and toss it in. here is the catch with option 2. Phase III I mentioned is a SYE - Tummy tuck/skid, rear stretch/fuel cell - last steps before I call it ready to head out west. SO basically option one lets me get the front done and wheel it locally while I plan and save money for the next step. Option 2 will leave with many months of working with no option to wheel and lot bigger investment. SYE - fuel cell

-Its America, and I want 60's pushing my 35's. :cheers2: :highfive:

 

Just look for the cleanest one you can find. It's all rebuildable. Alot I see the axle seals and the pinion seals are bad. Still rebuildable. Around here prices range from $500-$1000. I would pull the cover and inspect the gears. Check the u joints too. I wouldnt be scared to throw some parts at it but use the inspection to help negotiate your price.

 

I am looking at $400 for the 60 and a 14 bolt from a friend.

 

400 is a great deal jump on it quick. I think you should cut the bottom inch off the 14 bolt and run it! You will have to throw a bunch of $ at a 60 rear to make it as strong as a 14bolt.

 

I guess one of the selectable hubs is broke. still a good deal?

 

The 14 would need to be shortened. I guess its off a van and WAY wide. 14 bolts can be traded for a piece of gum around me. a good buddy has 3 laying around just because they were free. Could always trade this one for one matching the 60's WMS

 

Still a great deal. What state are you in that the axles are selling so cheap?

 

you mention that the 14 bolt is way to wide... the 60 is a full width axle to...should be close to same width a the 14 bolt. and if so i doubt you can space your 8.8 out to equal the width of a 60...i could be wrong though....

my jeep has a ford dana 44 and i measure 86" outside of tire to outside of tire

 

I havent measured them. the current owner told me the 14 bolt is wider

 

here is a comparison.....

pic is stock dana 30 with 1.5" wheel spacers and 15x10 wheels

this pic is with ford dana 44, stock width with 15x8 wheels 3.5" back spacing...no spacers

there is a big difference especially if you look at the first pic and imagine it without the wheel spacers....it would be 3" narrower

 

on the rear another option you might consider is a sterling 10.25. comparable to the 14bolt but more ground clearance. check out my 3/4 ton axle swap build thread for pics on this axle.

 

The ford should be 69.25 WMS. 8.8 is 59.5 if I recall. Not sure I could make up more than 4 inches of that.

2.88 inches narrower on each side with 2 inch spacers. its questionable at best

 

thanks. posted before I read yours. I can get a 10.25 sterling for $200 up the road here.

 

Could you run more backspacing to suck those in a bit? H1 rims?

 

even if you dont "need" it or "use" it BUY IT at the price unless it just trashed.....thats an awesome deal and you can always wire brush it, give it a nice coat of paint and put some new brakes on it and make a substantial profit!!!!!!!!!!

alot of people run h1 wheels.

 

My 14 bolt is narrower than my chevy 60 front. It's like 3-4 overall. The scout I'm building now has 09 gmc wheels that have a similar offset to h2s.

 

Here is the 09 gmc rims on a 8 lug 79 ford hp44 front and 14 bolt rear you can see those rims narrow it up quite a bit.

 

would those rims fit on a 60 with no caliper grinding?

 

I see that. yeh I would end up with h1's they are cheap and easy to find.

 

H1s would work on the front but then defeat the purpose on the rear cause it would narrow the 8.8 even more....so bout the only way to make it work would be to run different wheels on the rear or go ahead and swap both axles

plus you would have to have the wheels recentered for the rear if you kept the 8.8

 

I thought h1s had to be recentered? And aren't they 16.5s?

 

they have to be recentered because the come with 7inches of backspacing stock.

 

since we are talking about this. here are the two I am focused on. bringing one of them home this weekend.

I could get a set of 60's from and '94 F350 for $450. Comes with frame and deisel engine. (think ball joint front) 35 min drive.

or

'79 F350 60 front and 14 bolt rear $400 (think king pin) 2 hour drive each way

 

yeah sorry i didnt know what i was thinkin on the H1s ...brain fart

 

the ford f350 should have a sterling 10.25 rear axle. the sterling is much beffier than a 60. and i am pretty sure a 60 isnt truely classified as a rear 1 ton axle....could be wrong again.... ithought the sterling, dana 70, and 14 bolt were the 1 ton rears


but need to make sure that the rear axle is a single rear wheel truck and not a dually truck

 

checking on dually. If its a dually I am going to get the other set. as I understand it a '79 f350 front is one of the most wanted axles.

I just dont know if the 4 hours in the car is worth having to re-sell the 14 bolt and go get the 10.25. all to have a king pin '79

 

You can switch hubs out on the 14bolt to shorten the wheel base up. So the question is, is the 14bolt a SRW or a DRW

Where do you live? I'd be interested in the 14bolt if you are close.

 

Go for the ford 79 d60, I have one and it's the best front stock axle around for a bunch of reasons. Basically there is a reason they are the most sought after front axle. They are really stout. I run a d60 welded rear currently with 40's and haven't had any issues as of yet.

But as far as the 14 bolt vs the sterling rear its about even but the after market is better for the 14 bolt, but getting better for the sterling. Also, detroit lockers are dirt cheap for the 14 bolt. With the d60 your probably planning on running at least 37's so I would sweat it about the ground clearance. It's really personal preference, if it was me I would go with the 14 bolt. You break it you can just get another cheap.

For wheels I run stock 17" 2500 ram alloy rims and they are great. They tuck in the tires a bit but are a ton lighter than the H1s. Plus they add a little bit of of bling.

 

The 09 gmc or chevy wheels clear everything good they are 17s. Hub sit a little flush with the outside edge of the tire making your hubs a little vulnerable to rock rash.

 

Thanks, that's a big help.

Plans as of now

Kingpin rebuild(ordered) + New hubs, calipers, bearings, seals
4.88's
stock(own) yj SOA front - couple inch stretch if I can work it out
comp cut
14 bolt rear - located & working on buying
4'' SUA rear + lower hangers & stretch to rear bumper
Stock tank going in the back in a homemade metal box until a fuel cell deal comes along.

got a number of months of gathering parts and prepping.

 

you wont regret putting a 14bolt in. ultimate in strength when it comes to 1ton gear i bent an old dana60 that had been shortened in the back of my heep shouldntve have happened but it did. 60's belong in the front seat