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Dana 35 Speedi Sleeve question

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4K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  KVR1969  
#1 ·
Hello folks, newcomer here. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a question I have about my pinion seal replacement process.

A quick intro, I just picked up a '98 TJ that has suffered from many years of moderate to severe neglect. See photo (sorry about the sideways orientation, couldn't figure out how to rotate it).

One of the first items of order, out of many, was to change the differential oil and replace the pinion seals (Dana 30 front, 35 rear). I pulled both yokes, and the seal surface on the rear one was pretty well grooved, the front less so.

Here's my question. I was planning on using a Speedy Sleeves to "fix" the grooved seal surface on both yokes. The diameter of the front yoke seal surface is 1.562", which requires a 99156 Speedy Seal. No problem there. The rear however, has a seal surface diameter of 1.841". Speedy seal only makes two sleeves close to this diameter, but none with the correct range:

99181 which fits a range of 1.809 - 1.815, or

99185 which fits a range of 1.857- 1.863

Again, the diameter of my yoke is 1.841, which is right in between the two ranges listed. There is nothing listed in between, which is where my application falls.

Evidently they don't make a Speedy Seal for Dana 35's? I've scoured the internet and have come up with nothing. So my question is, could I try the larger or the smaller one? I know I can replace the yoke, but would rather not tear the whole rear end down, which would be required to put in a new crush sleeve with the new yoke.

Summary of my question: Should I just try one or both of the two available Speedy Sleeves, one a few hundredths too small the and the other a few too big? Or just bit the bullet and tear into the whole rear end?

See photos attached, the first one is of the front yoke, the second photo is of the rear one.

I'm hoping you all might be able to help me out, thanks very much in advance.


 

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#5 ·
Thanks for the reply rjbruzan. My main concern with replacing the yoke is that I didn't measure the torque on the pinion nut before taking it off, just marked the nut and the yoke with a line on the differential housing, so I could get the nut back in the same place upon reassembly. If I'm understanding the process right, to make sure the crush sleeve isn't compressed too far when you torque the new pinion nut/yoke down, you have to put a new crush sleeve in with the new yoke. Just trying to avoid tearing down the whole differential in doing that. I know shortcuts aren't ideal, but my budget is limited and I don't have the skills or confidence to get into the differential that far myself, I'd have to take it to a shop for that.