The retaining bolt on the carrier pin is small and 12 point. I can't remember the exact size, but 5/16's sounds right. Once you remove the bolt, the cross-pin will slide right out. Instead of a retaining bolt, the Dana 30 uses a roll-pin that must be tapped out with a hammer and punch.

The only issue you may run into is a broken retaining bolt. For some reason mine was broken, and from some google searching I found it was common enough to produce several hits and threads on jeep forums. If yours ends up being broken, its not a terrible problem. I drilled a small hole in the pin and tapped in a torx bit which grabbed enough to remove the remaining portion of the broken bolt. You may also be able to get it to turn out with a pick. It doesn't take much force to remove the broken piece.

 

Thanks for the post. Not much to it then.. Hope for a well intact bolt! I'll have a few more tools to bring..

 

There are YouTube videos on locker installs that will help you see up front what you're getting into. I found the ones from Randy's ring and pinion super informative.

 

Try this: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d35/d35-1.htm

 

Thanks for the idea to check YouTube, but, I lost all confidence to do this in a parking lot, after watching this:

I found this thread originally, and it looked pretty simple and trusting the comment that "this is the same procedure for the Dana 35, I figured I'd get the job done, in and out: http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28003

I guess there are C-clip dana 35s out there... Bummer. Guess I'll have to put her in the trusting hands of the shop. Unless..

My garage is 130 miles away, I am worried that running a shot bearing that far will cause permanent damage... Thoughts?? Grinding and rubbing noises are now as loud as conversation in the vehicle...

Thanks again!

 

Thanks for the idea to check YouTube, but, I lost all confidence to do this in a parking lot, after watching this:

I found this thread originally, and it looked pretty simple and trusting the comment that "this is the same procedure for the Dana 35, I figured I'd get the job done, in and out: http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28003

I guess there are C-clip dana 35s out there... Bummer. Guess I'll have to put her in the trusting hands of the shop. Unless..

My garage is 130 miles away, I am worried that running a shot bearing that far will cause permanent damage... Thoughts?? Grinding and rubbing noises are now as loud as conversation in the vehicle...

Thanks again!

Wait, so your issue is you're trying to replace the rear wheel bearings/seals? If so, there is no need to pull the carrier pin for the WJ D35. You will need access to a press for the bearing and retaining collar. Some have had luck putting the axle shaft in a chest freezer overnight and heating up the bearing to shrink and expand the respective parts just enough to allow them to slide together.

 

My unfamiliarity of non c-clip axles had me fooled here... I should have researched this further before seeking advice! I didn't realize all the thrust loading was reacted at the ends of the axle. I think I understand it all now.. I guess I asked the wrong questions on this thread.. But, yes, I have a blown bearing on driver-side rear, I was hoping to replace today. It is becoming an annoyance while driving.

We are temporarily at an apartment complex, just moved, but I still have my house for sale. My house is 130mi away, and everything I need to do this is still there. Only thing is, I need to get my jeep there! Just don't want to cause permanent damage, or have something fail on the drive.

I just replaced lower control arms, as there was some shifting of the axle going on. When I had the wheel pulled, I could feel some play when I moved the axle hub up/down. Maybe just a few thousands of an inch, but definitely noticeable. How many more miles do you think I can squeeze out of these bearings before causing serious damage??

 

If it's leaking diff fluid, you better make sure you keep it filled to the proper level. Is the inside of your rim wet looking. On mine that I am doing right now, I had the bearing leaking and because of the salt and grit they put on the road it attached itself to the inside rim. What a mess. Had to scrap it all off. You mentioned it is making a lot of noise. With these things its like throwing the dice. It could hold up for another month or it could go the next day and cause real issue. You really don't know. I do know I could have a conversation in my car when driving before I decided to get it fixed.

 

+1


I wouldn't take the chance. 130 miles and no extra cash to fix, or xxx miles and a ****load more cash to fix