I've also read about grinding the shift rail to make it go into front high. Which is easier/ better to do?

 

I've got it broken down this much and can get the Allen socket in there to reach the adjuster screw. But what do I do about the balls and stuff once I pull out the Rails? I'm not worried about the pills since I want them out but what about the balls?

 

You have to pull the 2 ~1/2" plug in the side of the aluminum casting to get the pills out. The rods have to come out first. Why do you want the pills out? They only stop it from being front L rear H and vice versa, why would you want to do that?

Balls and springs need to stay since they make it stay in gear.

 

You have to pull the 2 ~1/2" plug in the side of the aluminum casting to get the pills out. The rods have to come out first. Why do you want the pills out? They only stop it from being front L rear H and vice versa, why would you want to do that?

Balls and springs need to stay since they make it stay in gear.

They also prevent front high. But I got pretty aggravated with messing with it and decided to just leave them in. Front low is good enough for me! Lol

 

Okay, but why would you want front high? They sure make getting the shafts in and out a pain.

 

If you twin stick your transfer case you will probably end up going back in to deal with those shift rails again. twin sticking usually cause the case to jump out of low range going down steep grades. twin sticking relieves the inherent binding the single stick has in it.
JB Conversions has a spring kit designed for the twin stick pop out problem. It replaces the detent springs and adds a ball to the deep side bore to give equal pressure to both rails. This kit works i have used it on mine.
Now to get the rails out it is done in a specific order and you have to have them in a certain position to remove. The instructions in the spring kit detail removing the rails. The pills even stop the rails from coming out. There is a way to get all range choices with out removing the pills. you have to grind a slot extension on the front drive rail. It is very easy to do. once done you will get front high range and still have the interlock functional.
Here are a couple of links for you.

http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/ballspring.php

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/

 

If you twin stick your transfer case you will probably end up going back in to deal with those shift rails again. twin sticking usually cause the case to jump out of low range going down steep grades. twin sticking relieves the inherent binding the single stick has in it.
JB Conversions has a spring kit designed for the twin stick pop out problem. It replaces the detent springs and adds a ball to the deep side bore to give equal pressure to both rails. This kit works i have used it on mine.
Now to get the rails out it is done in a specific order and you have to have them in a certain position to remove. The instructions in the spring kit detail removing the rails. The pills even stop the rails from coming out. There is a way to get all range choices with out removing the pills. you have to grind a slot extension on the front drive rail. It is very easy to do. once done you will get front high range and still have the interlock functional.
Here are a couple of links for you.

http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/ballspring.php

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/

Thank you so much. I was going with the jb stainless twin stick kit. So ill probably order that at the same time. I was really looking forward to doing the grinding mod. It seemed really easy. Do I have to remove that center shaft and gear assembly in order to remove the rails?

 

JB Fabrications is the maker of the twin stick kit. I used them as well.
JB Conversions is the maker of the spring kit. Not the same company

yes you have to remove the cluster gear and shaft to get to the fork set screws. the moment you pull the shaft out you will have something like 60 needle bearings fall to the bottom of the case also one sleeve 2 spacers and a couple of thrust washers.

When I tore mine down it was a great time to reseal the entire T/C

 

If you twin stick your transfer case you will probably end up going back in to deal with those shift rails again. twin sticking usually cause the case to jump out of low range going down steep grades. twin sticking relieves the inherent binding the single stick has in it.
JB Conversions has a spring kit designed for the twin stick pop out problem. It replaces the detent springs and adds a ball to the deep side bore to give equal pressure to both rails. This kit works i have used it on mine.
Now to get the rails out it is done in a specific order and you have to have them in a certain position to remove. The instructions in the spring kit detail removing the rails. The pills even stop the rails from coming out. There is a way to get all range choices with out removing the pills. you have to grind a slot extension on the front drive rail. It is very easy to do. once done you will get front high range and still have the interlock functional.
Here are a couple of links for you.

http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/ballspring.php

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/

Is it the front or rear shift rail that I have to grind? The article said rear but you said front. I would rather not get it wrong.

 

I did this almost 2 years ago. Forgive an old mans memory The article is correct.

 

JB Fabrications is the maker of the twin stick kit. I used them as well.
JB Conversions is the maker of the spring kit. Not the same company

Ohh! Lol why would the confuse me like that?! Haha okay so what's the easiest way to get that rail out with the least disassembly? How did you do it? I'm looking to do all this tomorrow if I can.

 

the least amount of dis-assembly is not actually removing the rail at all just getting it out far enough to get a grinder on it. on mine I could not get an Allen socket on the fork set screw(s) with the cluster gear in place but I have read in a few places it can be done. Since you are not doing the upgrade springs there is no reason to remove the rails.
here is a link for the shortest method.
http://www.freedomtrailriders.org/tech_archive.php?pid=55436

I tore my T/C down to almost a bare case. I resealed mine while I had it on the bench. Even with resealing and painting it only took about 2 1/2 hrs on the bench. The whole job took about 6 hrs from start to test drive.

 

the least amount of dis-assembly is not actually removing the rail at all just getting it out far enough to get a grinder on it. on mine I could not get an Allen socket on the fork set screw(s) with the cluster gear in place but I have read in a few places it can be done. Since you are not doing the upgrade springs there is no reason to remove the rails.
here is a link for the shortest method.
http://www.freedomtrailriders.org/tech_archive.php?pid=55436

I tore my T/C down to almost a bare case. I resealed mine while I had it on the bench. Even with resealing and painting it only took about 2 1/2 hrs on the bench. The whole job took about 6 hrs from start to test drive.

Thank you so much again!

 

Your very welcome and good luck :2thumbsup:

 

Your very welcome and good luck :2thumbsup:

If I have anymore questions I know who to ask! Haha

 

Most guys probably would not ever need front high. I wanted the option just to have it.
Its usually done for front wheel digs. What if your rear drive line fails or a rear yoke? When I go on the trail I do not wheel carry extra drive lines or yokes on board so having front high will get me home.

That's the reason I'm doing it. I've had driveshafts fail on me before and had to get home in front wheel drive.

 

You guys are not thinking that through. If you have it in 4H with no rear DS you are in front high. We did that once in our Scout when I was a kid. As for front digs, I would assume low would be good enough for that.

Regardless, the pills are annoying you are not likely to mix L and H and anyway.

RTV is preferred for the gasket. The paper ones leak. I used the new Permatex for gear oil.

 

There are 48 rollers (I just did mine). Mine went back in with no dummy shaft just grease the first time.

Make sure you get a new seal for that shaft it did not come in the seal kit. I ended up using regular o-ring rather than the square one that is in there.

Thank you guys. I'm going to try to do it in a couple of hours without removing the shaft. I just have never messed with needle bearings before and I'm really nervous about it

 

Got it done guys! It was super easy! Only took a couple of minutes! Thank y'all so much.

Another question. Can I just use rtv instead of an actual oil pan gasket?

 

Got it done guys! It was super easy! Only took a couple of minutes! Thank y'all so much.

Another question. Can I just use rtv instead of an actual oil pan gasket?

Yes :2thumbsup:

 

Front high:

Front low:

Rear low:

 

 

You guys are not thinking that through. If you have it in 4H with no rear DS you are in front high. We did that once in our Scout when I was a kid. As for front digs, I would assume low would be good enough for that.

Regardless, the pills are annoying you are not likely to mix L and H and anyway.

RTV is preferred for the gasket. The paper ones leak. I used the new Permatex for gear oil.

I had done that in my bronco. But the difference is that I could tie up the rear ds and have it not spin and still drive to where I can fix it or remove it.

I ended up using permatex ultra black rtv. Worked great on everything else I used it on so I don't see why it wouldn't work on this too!

Thank you guys!

 

My last trip off roading a guy in the group I go with blew a rear yoke on the T/C. Split it wide open but still on the shaft. We disconnected the D/S from the diff and chained it up on top of the exhaust. no gaping hole and no spinning shaft to completely destroy the seal etc and drain the T/C.

 

Nothing wrong with Ultra Black, I just figures I'd give the new gear oil stuff a try.

I've never heard of it! Lol I've got to find some of this stuff some time.

 

They told me it is new:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we..._src=17588969&ci_sku=7740016&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=&gclid=CLbO3ergqrcCFcU5Qgod91cAIg