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Dana 20 transfer case problems

8K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  rkjeepster  
#1 ·
Question for all you Dana 20 experts:

A little background: 1967 J3000 w/ 327, T18, Dana 20, Dana 44 front and rear. Newly rebuilt Powrlok in the rear, new rear axles (full floating).

I had the original J shifter on the Dana 20. Occasionally, it would drift out of 2 HI into neutral, not a huge deal. Eventually, this seemed to get worse. I thought there were issues with my new rear axle rebuild, but everything checked out. I then put a twin stick conversion in last November, which made things worse. Ordered a new rebuild kit for the 20, put it in, now the thing will barely stay in 2 HI and immediately pops out of 4 HI and Low. I pulled out the case again, opened it up, can't see any real problems. I did order a new output gear off the T-18, since one of the teeth was broken. Poppet springs and balls were replaced and heavily shimmed with washers. Replaced the bearings, intermediate shaft and thrust washers, seals and gaskets. End play is good on front and rear output. Shift rails are perfect, no wear on them. I shimmed the hell out of the detent springs. Everything went back together nicely.

I got the case back in the truck, started it up and drove around for a while. I was on the freeway, when bam, came out of gear again. Could not get it back into 2wd. So I switched to front wheel drive only and drove home. When I got back, my rear wheel drive was working again.

I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. I don't know if there is a gap between the rear output gear on the transmission and the rear output shaft, because that's where rear 2wd high is engaged.

Thoughts? Who else has had this problem?
 
#2 ·
What kind of twin stick setup do you have? My first thought was linkage or too much movement between the body and T-case, but depending on the twin stick setup, that may not be an issue
 
#4 ·
well, I doubt it's your linkage, but if it were me, I'd want to make absolutly sure that it wasn't something external (like body/frame flex causing the shift boot to move the shifter when you accelerate, or a worn engine mount allowing the drive train to twist), before I pulled the case apart again.
 
#6 ·
Inspect the shifter for any binding on the body, boot, or frame. If all is clear, drop the t case inspection cover and see if the gear is completely engaged.
Check for a worn/bent fork, loose fork, or any movement in the output shaft. Insure the nut is tight on the bull gear and the transmission output bearing is good.
 
#7 ·
The shifters a clear of everything. The forks were straight and clean with no wear on them. Output shaft has required end play. The bull gear is brand new, tightened to 150 lbs.

Don't know about transmission output bearing, but the transmission was rebuilt about 20 years ago.

The only other thing I can think of is there being a space between the output gear on the transmission and the rear output shaft on the t-case, not allowing the slider gear to fully engage. I'll have to look at it underneath to see if it fully engages.
 
#8 ·
Update #2: pulled the oil cover today on the t-case to look underneath. The rear output gear from the transmission is perfectly matched to the intermediate gear. The could not be more perfectly lined up. However, there is a slight gap between the output gear and the main output shaft in the t-case. When engaging the rear axle into high range (main sliding gear slides up onto the rear output gear), it doesn't seem like it gets as close to the output gear as it should. There is a small gap. When the sliding gear for the front axle is engaged, there is no gap between the sliding gear and the high speed gear.

Is there a shimming issue here? The end play on the rear output shaft is perfect, but I feel like there are shims in the wrong place.

On a side note, when both axles are in neutral, and the transmission is in neutral, the rear output gear is still turning. Seems like that should not be turning if the transmission is in neutral.