A couple of years ago I had an issue with the throttle lamp on.

The Commander was run normally but from time to time the battery lamp came up and few secs later disappeared. Strange, I thought. One day the battery lamp camp up again, couple of secs later the red throttle came together and the engine went to “save mode”, means the Commander made not more than ~30 mph. I’ve got it home stopped the engine - and dead. I couldn’t start again. Tested a couple of things, everything were ok. But the battery was quiet low, so I charged over night, next morning it started normally but with the battery light on. Measured the charging voltage from the generator - nothing. Got it to the garage to replace the generator. They also mounted a peace of plastic on top of the generator to get rid of the dropping oil coming out of one of the tube from/to the turbo.
Done. Work fine now for years (ok, smaller issues I had but nothing heavy).

Recently some oil is dropping out under the engine. It seems to be the oil-cooler at the bottom of the V. That’s terrible. Lot of expensive work to get rid of this issue.

Anyway, don’t dive up.

 

Have a good check of the tubes going in and out of the resonator positioned between the belt. When I had the belt changed the garage managed to not get the tubes and o-rings correct, it leaked and was not drivable. Barely idled and no power an lots of smoke. Was just able to drive the few hundred yards back to the garage where they put the tubs in correctly and all was fine. All this gave no warning lights.

 

The only "throttle body" a CRD has is for the EGR system, regulating how much EGR gases go back into the intake system. I don't think that would be the cause of your problems, since if it did fail, it has a spring that would cause it to fail in the open position. The engine would run fine with it stuck in the open position. I'd think that would only cause a check engine light to go off.
Did they say why they came to the conclusion that the throttle body is bad, or what engine codes are now set?

 

Can you explain how the system works a bit more? It makes sense to me that if my engine is getting too much or too little air into it (fresh or exhaust) it could very easily die at idol while staying alive revving.

When she stalled it was very reminiscent of stalling a manual transmission, I think muscle memory even kicked in and I slammed my left foot down looking for a clutch! lol

 

I spent some time doing some homework on this. I need to contact the shop to get my exact engine number in order to cross reference the Mercedes part number for the throttle body (I've also seen it named EGR Airflow Valve) ranging from $150 in Latvia to $400 in the US ($600 from the dealership) part number 68012325AA. There is also mention of a gasket and flange for around $30.

With any luck my Benz parts guy in town can find it much cheaper than Mopar.

 

not worked on the v6 motor yet but do they have an air valve in the intake like the 2.8VM motor to assist in shutting the motor down? One of my KJs needed it replacing as it was stuggling to run like yours

 

I do believe it is a valve on the air intake, not sure if its like 2.8VM or your KJ as mine is the OM642 engine from Benz.
I can find a diagram of the part and it's needed gasket and flange, even the service manual step by step process to replace but I can't seem to find anywhere with an image of where this is actually located in the engine bay.

I'm also not 100% convinced this is the problem, anyone have insight on the Throttle Position Sensor or diagnosing the throttle body? I think the sensor is located near (or on?) the throttle body.

Thanks

 

If you don't have it, you can download the OM642 engine addendum here:

http://www.chipmunksoftware.com/ds708/?wpfb_dl=29

when you do a search of this document using the word "throttle" the only thing you find has to do with the EGR intake mixer as mentioned before by some of the other guys.

There may be some minor variations from year to year but this guide is very helpful for most things on the CRD.

 

These are the codes that were pulled, can anyone help with the first two?
P0087
P0299
P0402- Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected

 

looks like P0087 is low fuel rail pressure and P0299 is turbo underboost

 

I've been having issues with the EGR Throttle Control Valve on my CRD too. Even with the GDE tune, the PCM still strokes the EGR valve to check function and has recently detected that the operable range is outside of specification. It is throwing a persistent P0488 CEL now, but driving has not been impaired.

I'm considering replacement of the EGR, but as a previous poster mentioned, the prices vary wildly based on where you source it. I'm not confident on buying one from Lativia, and the $400 ebay MOPAR ones are a tough pill to swallow as well since with the Hot Tune I don't even use the EGR. Maybe I should go full delete in case the thing sticks wide open throwing me into limp?

 

The Throttle Body (EGR Air Flow Valve) and the Exhaust Gas Re circulation Valve are two different parts. If you do your homework, you can save big bucks on parts. I was just quoted $565 for the Throttle Body from Jeep and bought one for $180 from a Denver-based European parts company yesterday (made by Bosch). The hardest part is finding Jeep's alternate (Mercedes) part numbers, I had a Benz dealership parts guy tell me that most MB part numbers that start with 642 are compatible with our OM642 engine then had a Jeep parts guy argue with me that I don't have a Mercedes engine before reading me an alt part number starting 642... Dummy
I've read threads about cleaning the EGR valve saying that although difficult it can be done by average Joe. Talked to my mechanic yesterday and he casually mentioned how he already pulled and checked mine (made it sound much easier than I previously thought). Might be worth checking yours out too before buying a new one or at least a call into Green Diesel. My mechanic said my EGR looked great, especially for over 100k miles.

 

Happy to finally report back; 6 new injectors and one glow plug later my Jeep is running tip top!

Injectors went in and she ran well for the shop's test run, after a day or two in my hands check engine light came on and Jeepy seemed to have a rumble especially when in Drive and not moving, like at a stoplight (I like to call it the Jurassic Park Rumble from the scene with a cup of water on the dash shaking from the T-rex!). Code reader said cylinder 3 glow plug failure and cylinder 6 misfire. Originally thought #6 might have gotten a bad injector but I replaced glow plug #3 (Thanks Chirpz), the problem has gone away and the code has since cleared itself.

To date, for my hard starting issue, my Jeep had these replaced (some part numbers are Jeep some are Mercedes, I did the legwork for some of these prices and the shop ordered some i.e. higher prices):
Crankshaft Position Sensor 05175763AB or 642153072805 $90,
Soft fuel lines,
Charge Air Intake Tube (Elephant Hose) 53013672AE $120,
Injector (high pressure) Pump 68018733AA $3000,
Throttle Body 6420900270 $200,
Six Injectors 642070138780 $220-450 each,
One Hard Fuel Line (Shop damaged mine during repairs),
Two Glow Plugs 0011597101 $17 each.

Luckily for me, my extended warranty ended up covering most of this cost and all of the labor (additional $2000 ish) however after one overpriced injector, a deductible from my warranty co and other parts I am still into it around $1200 myself.

Keep on Jeeping Jeepers!

*Updated with correct part number; Glow plug 0011596601 is not the correct voltage for our CRDs

 

Happy to hear it! whats the name of the shop you go to? I'm in Denver/have an 07 CRD too and had a bad experience with one and I've been hesitant to go back ever since. Hope your jeep keeps running well let us know if you have any updates!

 

The one I will be using exclusively for CRD issues is called Linden Automotive & Engineering in Golden. The owner knows his stuff about Sprinters.

http://www.lindenautorepairgoldenco.com

I have suspension (Lifetime alignments on my Superlift!) and driveline work done by the Firestone in Broomfield/Superior. Both shops are 50-75% cheaper than the dealerships.

If anyone is in the Baton Rouge, LA area, I highly recommend Coy's Diesel. They replaced leaking fuel injector for me a year ago for $100.

 

Were you able to determine the injectors were bad by looking at the computer settings? I recall reading that the PCM will change a value for each injector as the injectors wear out but eventually that value tops out and you now have a "bad" injector at that point.
Cheers, Steve

 

PatrickCRD, I took mine to Branch Automotive and Diesel Testing in Highlands Ranch. Took a while for me but I blame most of that on my warranty co. Big bonus is that they have a few free loaner vehicles, be sure to call ahead if you need one though. Tom or Bryan are usually the guys to talk to.

SteveROntario, The shop was having a hard time determining the correct fuel return rate and Mercedes didn't care to share what it should be at so we don't know if mine was high low or fine. We ended up having my injectors pulled and sent out for bench testing at an injector specialty place. Five of six injectors failed the test, my warranty paid for five and I paid for the last one, it'd be silly to only replace five. Not positive what exactly failed them, they sent me the results but it may as well be written in Japanese.

KUJeeper82 may be on to something there too, sounds like a good deal!