Thanks a lot! I haven't jumped in yet, but I'm going to soon.

 

Hopefully someone will find this useful though. :cheers2:

NICE write up !!

 

I had mine done last summer when a seal when out on me. I broke the hold down bolt due to a bad click-type torque wrench. Had a guy that told me he could drill out the old bolt and drilled through the bolt into the coolant jacket in the head. Next step was a head replacement. You really should replace the heads in pairs. I was quoted $850 for one head and $900 for two from a junk yard. Did lots of other things while it was all torn apart. Just be careful installing the hold down bolts. 60in-lb + 90* seemed perfect for mine. I think the book says 62in-lb + 180*.

I did mine summer cold. Had a little time working the gunky injector out, but got it out same way you did. Worked it by using the hold down bracket, then used a vise grips on the injector till I could pretty much spin it all the way around before I worked it out. I did not have time to get order one of the injector slide hammer removers.

 

Definitely can't say enough how important that hold down bolt is for sure. The waterjacket is very close to it, as your tech found out. The bolt also reaches the bottom of the hole, so if you don't clean the threads so there's not a single piece of debris in it then when you torque it down you could break the head into the waterjacket as well. (based on my reading)

 

Nice write-up! I did this last summer after just searching around and watching youtube videos of a british guy doing the job on a 4 cyl car. same process really. i will say that i threaded fitting down onto the injector that i could pry up on with a pry bar slowly, that made the difference. they sell such a tool, but i elected to try it myself. also, my turbo outlet washer failed during removal, and I broke the return fuel rail at one of the snap on fittings. so what could have been easy, became a bit more expensive. http://europarts-sd.com/mfg-subcat-item.asp?cID=102&scID=179 was a great resource for parts. i also cleaned it up with a wire brush and a screw driver, then vacuumed the hole in the engine out with a shop vac.
i left the foam blocks and cover off for a few weeks to watch for leaks, as I didnt have a torque wrench nor did i replace the hold down bolts. on the clicking torque wrench.. i just tried one for the first time, on my glow plugs, and was terrified to apply what the tool said was 10 ft.lbs. to tighten. I tested the force needed on the vice, but when i put the wrench on that deep well 8mm socket, and started to tighten I just couldnt do it. i used my 3/8" ratchet and just went to spark plug tight. there a guy on youtube with a 30 minute video with pin outs, module, and glow plugs. he used a 1/4" ratchet.

reason i post this is, i figure if it works loose I can tighten it, but I don't want to break anything off in that head!!

 

Very good write-up.
I have to ask though - what about all the debris falling down into the cylinder while you are resurfacing the injector seat? Would it all blow out upon cranking? I'd be afraid of dumping some of that crap down into the cylinder and then having get lodged into one of the ring lands.

 

Very good write-up. I have to ask though - what about all the debris falling down into the cylinder while you are resurfacing the injector seat? Would it all blow out upon cranking? I'd be afraid of dumping some of that crap down into the cylinder and then having get lodged into one of the ring lands.

The hole is at a slight angle, so most(if not all) stayed at the bottom edge not near the center hole. (Vacuum it out) The cutter inserts into the center which blocks it for the most part. I really didnt remove much material with the cutter, either. If i was to try and remove more i think i'd put some grease on the cutter first and clean it off often. I've used that technique tapping holes in spots you dont want shavings. Your mileage may vary.

 

What were your symptoms (of the leaking injector)?

 

What were your symptoms (of the leaking injector)?

You could hear it making a chuffing sound like an exhaust leak, black goo all around the injector, diesel exhaust smell in the cab, and i kind of could feel it accelerating maybe (Could have been in my head)

 

Thanks, I've been hearing the same sound for approx 2 weeks. Mine goes away when the engine is hot though.

Is it easy to recognize the leak with the black foam cover removed?

Edit: disregard. I have a leaking injector. I will post up all the part numbers to assist other down the line.

 

Got the seal on injector #3 changed last weekend. This thread was very helpful, especially the part about lifting up on the fuel return connector. I followed all of the instructions exactly and they were dead on.

A few additions:
Instead of a seal cutter, I used a 5/8" dowel with sand paper (I used 120 grit) attached to the tip with foam double sided tape. I had to sand down the end of the dowel just a little to be sure the sand paper fit flush against the sealing surface in the head.

I used the bore brushes from a 12ga shotgun cleaning kit to clean out the injector well. Again, worked perfectly...sizes were dead on.

I used a 1/4" BEAM type torque wrench to tighten the stretch bolt. Makes it nearly impossible to over-torque the bolt.

Using the old stretch bolt, I cut two deep grooves in it to make it into a thread chaser. Very easy to do and works well. I was able to thread the chaser bolt down into the hole 19 full turns using two 2 fingers. There was no doubt the hole and threads were clean and ready.

Now for some part numbers since I didn't see them anywhere on the forum.

Injector seal: 05080301AA (Chrysler/Jeep) or 6110170060 (MB).
Stretch bolt: 68001053AA (Chrysler/Jeep) or 0009902907 (MB).
Return line o-ring: A0000780580 (MB).

 

NICE write up very helpfull

 

Injector removal and copper seal replacement.

Injector removal and copper seal replacement. A special thanks to everybody for their posts they help me in my endeavor to removing Bank 1 2 3 4 5 + 6 injectors replacing the copper seals.:smile2::smile2::smile2:

To start with I sent my Jeep Grand Cherokee 2008 CDR out because it was not starting, it progressed slowly to not started. It turned over slowly and took a long time to start and then progressively did not start at all over about a month during spring months.:crying2:

I sent my Jeep to a Mercedes Benz diesel specialists; he charged me $500 said he had no codes to go on to do my repair; I was pretty unhappy with this diagnosis. Paid him started my Jeep with quick start and took it home.:frown2:>

I could only start my Jeep with quick start using a rounded off piece of an old air filter in front of Turbo without the elephant hose on vehicle! I would spray the round piece have air filter with quick start turn my key, and Jeep would eventually start without any knocking or clacking. It was recommended me to start the Jeep by spraying into the air filter on the air intake, but I found this created a ton of knocking and it was very hard starting on my Jeep; therefore, I recommend my previous solution. My jeep was started a total of 3 times using quick-start; so if your Jeep does not start but will start this way you have injectors that need replacing!:|

I decided to send my Jeep into an old time diesel specialists he charged me another $500 and prove to me that bank 4 and 5 injectors we're not working; by sealing them off and starting my vehicle with the key. It started with the key on 4 injectors and ran fine. He gave me the song and dance about how hard injectors are to remove, and it could cost me a $2000 labor and cost of new injectors (APP $3000):surprise:> to replace the two injectors. So I found your Jeep forum, and I got started.:laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:

My first did injector bank 4; it was effortless came out nicely, and I covered it in ceramic grease cleaned inside and putting new copper seal. I continued on and did bank number 5, and bank number 6 all three were elementary. The second mechanic must have previously removed these in conclusion. Except for bank 6 it was long time soaked(I will explain later.)
I had to replace injector Bank 4 and 5 as those injectors drizzled fuel out of the little black post with the tiny small rubber gasket that connects to the return lines. So we now know that a bad injector bleeds fuel out in drops from the returned fuel line post on the nozzle. A good injector does not drizzle any fuel.
As I did this I attached fish tank hosing to my return lines and ran it into a gas can to minimize diesel spill. I also found the easiest way to remove return line clips without breaking them is to use a pair of needle-nose pliers with a bent end gently pull up the clip will click twice. To install push down wit two fingers gently and it will click twice. If leaking replace tiny rubber gasket on top of nozzle post.:laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:

However, does the trouble came when I moved over to bank 1.
When I got to bank 1 my injector was stuck. I created a new tool with my Bosch mini grinder and a pry bar can a 2 1/2 foot pipe; I did of course put on 50% transmission fluid to 50% diesel and let it soak. I did this many times. The tool I designed well work well for injector number 1. While prying them out using leverage I had to make mini metal shims. I continually work up with shims until I could pry off the engine block, but it did work.:hahaha:

As stated before I did manage to remove bank number one which was very close to Black Death with a pry bar and a tool I made which I will enclose a picture of out of a home nail pry are about 1 foot long.

Bank 2 was a nightmare so far I have broken off bolt inside engine which I am going to remove after removing the injector I bought specialized CDR injector removal tool for my Mercedes Benz it works but I did have to heat the injector with a propane torch for 60 seconds each side the transmission fluid 50% and 50% diesel.

The slide hammer it purchased did pull the injector up about a quarter of an inch! I continued relubing and reheating; pulling the injector out. I had to use a pry bar to keep the injector puller in place. I also had to continue to use my vice to squish the tool to get it to pull injector properly. It took about 30 minutes once I put heat on it, but you must do this very carefully with propane on lowest setting possible. This particular injector was full of Black Death which is why I struggled so hard to get it to remove it.

I did have a problem with the copper seal being seized on the bottom of the injector hole. I used a Q-tip attached to the fondue tool that I made dipped it in transmission 50% and Diesel 50% and lubricated I use the tip of the fondue fork to scratched carbon loose and then he did it and used my homemade fondue tool to break loose stuck copper seal. I did manage to recover this injector hole and clean it.:grin2::teehee:

I had oil with my injectors many times over about three weeks with transmission fluid 50% and 50% diesel my driveway sits on a slope, and the soaking method works well, or it did for me on injector number 3 and injector number 6. The reason it worked was that my jeep was sitting on a slant downhill towards the rear window. All the fluid I use for lubricating puddles near Bank 3 and Bank 6 injectors both of these injectors turned out by hand. Therefore if you want the soak method to work your Jeep must be level as mine was not only injector number 3 and injector 6 came out by hand. :grin2::grin2::grin2:

Below is homemade reaming tool for glow plugs. Made out of fondue stick ground off prong and soldering after grinding ends sparkly clean and used flux. It was a tricky solder, but the tool works great!:hahaha:

Last but not least hand tighten hold down bolt by hand holding ratchet by picture below once you have resistance then 90 turn with leverage and then 45 turn ; when you do 90 plus 90 you break off bolt inside off engine block.LOL that will be my next post.

Many pictures below to help newcomers!:smile2::smile2::smile2:

 

Great instructions and tips. I had to do injectors 1 and 2. I used carb-cleaner for the difficult carbon deposits, and oven cleaner for the easier large chunks, but not at the same time. Also did break a new stretch-bolt into the head and had to redo that cylinder. Had to make a sleeve that guided a drill bit into the broken bolt to carefully remove it. Not fun. Uploaded a photo of thicker than OEM copper injector seals I bought on eBay.

 

Nice write up.
Acetone will eat the carbon build up off injector and engine in seconds but wear clothes you can throw away afterwards as it’s messy.
The leak off fitting , try to get it so the ring turns or can be turned before you try to lift it up to unlock it as this ensures it lifts evenly .. esp if it is crusted up.
I annealed my injector seals , they are slightly concave and I just thought that it would be easier on the holding bolt thread for it to not have to work hard to crush them down.
I replaced a couple of injectors due to Black Death a few years back and then refitted six new ones when I had issues with a couple going bad , never used a torque wrench .. I’m old so used that ‘ it’s good there’ as would rather have a seal go than a thread / bolt break and alls good still so I got that right.
As mentioned it’s very hard to see down injector hole and as I wear glasses even worse as you cannot focus so I ended up using phone camera to take pictures and then enlarge / zoom in on them.

 

I bought an injector seal cutter to do this job (https://www.amazon.com/Qbace-7PCS-D...196_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JKFQBEB6130EB470T91B&tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20), and I honestly don't know if i really had the right cutter for the job. I first tried the 17mm stepped to 19mm but the step didn't let it actually reach the bottom of the hole. Then I tried a 17mm cutter and it fit nicely but it really was only removing material from the perimeter of the bore, so I would have had to remove alot of material to get it flat. There was a 15mm cutter which is the size that the washer is, so that seems to be the right one but the body on it was stepped and I couldn't get it to fully insert into the hole. I think using a dowel that's 15/16mm in diameter with fine sandpaper glued to the end of it would be best for trying to resurface mating surface if there isn't a ton of damage down there. I didn't do this, but chose to clean it up the best I could and see if it would hold. I have another washer and bolt ready if it fails on me again. Here's what the kit looks like. It's alot like the cutters to resurface compression type faucet seats. Do not work the cutter back and forth or you can get chatter marks in the seat, only go clockwise.
EDIT- the 17x17 cutter I'm told works perfectly

Bump for this bit. I had a similar experience with the seat cutter I got.

The set I have includes a 15mm x 19mm cutter. The 19mm shoulder effectively keeps the cutter centered, which is great. However, the 15mm cutter is slightly larger than the injector seat, but I decided to start cutting anyway. Unfortunately, the 19mm shoulder hit an upper ridge before reaching the sealing face.

I switched to a 17mm x 17mm cutter. This cutter has more material to remove before reaching the seat face, and without a shoulder to keep it centered, it became a challenging and stressful task. Although the 17mm x 17mm cutter is far from perfect, it gets the job done. I managed to achieve a seal using a Honda washer. Hopefully, it holds up.

I can understand why there is a lot of confusion online regarding the right seat cutting tool. If I have to work on another injector seal, I would prefer to have a better cutter. The 15mm x 19mm cutter seems close, but the 15mm cutter section should ideally be about 2mm taller. Does anyone know of a reliable source for a cutter that has been confirmed to work? As a last resort, I'm considering grinding down some of the 19mm shoulder.


Here are some tips based on my experience. When dealing with carbon buildup, I advise avoiding solvents. In my extensive work cleaning Audi direct injection valves, I have found that it is more effective to remove carbon when it is dry and brittle. I applied the same approach to the Grand Cherokee (GC), and the carbon easily broke off when scraped or picked. I noticed minimal debris in the injector hold down bolt and injector hole. It is possible that using solvents on the carbon can cause it to melt, leading it to enter the holes and potentially clog them. To prevent debris from entering the hole, I recommend immediately reinstalling the hold down bolt after removing the injector.

I encountered a difference with my fuel return line. It has a lock and unlock symbol. I needed to rotate the tab to the unlock position, and then the line pulled off. When reattaching it, I had to apply some grease to the small o-ring to lock it again.

 

Thanks for this great write up! I had two injector seals that were bad on the passenger side, but decided to just do all 6 while I was in there. The passenger side went great, but of course I broke the fuel line on the driver side and had to replace it. IDParts had everything required for this job. Glad to get this out of the way, should be good for another 200,000 miles!