Googling around it seems to be a challenging connector to get.

In the meantime I'm thinking of doing something like this with the old switch (tested still good with my multimeter).

I trimmed off the plastic covering the connectors so I could access them straight on and used some terminal connectors.

I'll see how it works tomorrow.. thoughts on this temporary approach? Is it true based on the diagram that jumping pins 5 and 6 would trigger the brakes? Or do I need 2 and 5? Not sure what switch sense vs switch output means

 

Pay real close attention when looking over wiring diagrams for these things, becasue they aren't always the most accurate. No idea what book you're looking at there, but it's pinout is the reverse of how your connector connector is marked there.

The actual connector pins 5 and 6 there shorted will turn the brake lights on. Shorting 5 and 6 from that wiring diagram would just tell the PCM you pressed the brakes.

That switch is really 3 switches in one. 1 and 2 are one, 3 and 4 are one, then 5 and 6. The 2 leads that are nuked are the ones that are doing the brake lights, as only the Red/Green wire there has power on it, then when the switch is pressed that power goes to the White/Tan wire to light up the bulbs back there.

The other 2 switches there use ground for the PCM and Speed control to know what is going on with the brake pedal. AKA, when you're off the brake pedal it knows, so you can set the cruise control, then once you press the pedal it knows and kicks the cruise off. Those 4 wires are not needed to get the brake lights to work, but are needed if you are going to use the cruise control.

 

Thank you very much. It all seems so obvious after staring at it for long enough - Doing much more than changing my oil is fairly new to me. It makes sense that I need power to actually trigger the brake lights and makes sense that that would come from the fused pin.

There are more wires than stock under there from a tow brake system that was previous installed, turned out the fuse wire on the brake switch connector wasn't connected to anything and I didn't know what it needed to be connected to. Used my meter to confirm voltage at the fuse and then tested each wire under the brake pedal to find the one that carried the power. Used that and combination with white/tan wire to turn on my brakes. Connected them to the brake switch like in my previous post and all is good. It is now safe to drive until I can find the proper connector.

By the way that diagram is from the 1995 JGC FSM

Pay real close attention when looking over wiring diagrams for these things, becasue they aren't always the most accurate. No idea what book you're looking at there, but it's pinout is the reverse of how your connector connector is marked there.

The actual connector pins 5 and 6 there shorted will turn the brake lights on. Shorting 5 and 6 from that wiring diagram would just tell the PCM you pressed the brakes.

That switch is really 3 switches in one. 1 and 2 are one, 3 and 4 are one, then 5 and 6. The 2 leads that are nuked are the ones that are doing the brake lights, as only the Red/Green wire there has power on it, then when the switch is pressed that power goes to the White/Tan wire to light up the bulbs back there.

The other 2 switches there use ground for the PCM and Speed control to know what is going on with the brake pedal. AKA, when you're off the brake pedal it knows, so you can set the cruise control, then once you press the pedal it knows and kicks the cruise off. Those 4 wires are not needed to get the brake lights to work, but are needed if you are going to use the cruise control.