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Best way to install 35" tires on CJ7

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24K views 46 replies 23 participants last post by  woolyworm  
#1 ·
I have a bone stock 1980 CJ7 4.2L i6. I would like a nice clean looking jeep with 35" tires. How should I go about doing this correctly?

How much body lift do I need? How much suspension lift do I need? Do I need to remove the fenders for 35" tires? What do I need to change my gears to? What size rims should I get...15x10?

Like I said my jeep is bone stock (no power steering).

Can someone send me a picture of their jeep w/ 35"?

Thanks,
 
#2 · (Edited)
NO Body lift..... 4" suspension and maybe 1/2" shackle lift. Clears ok unless you really want to flex out. 4.56 or 4.88 gears work well and a 15x8 or 15x10 wheel is good.


36-12.50-15 tsl swampers and just a bit of trim on the trailing edge of the rear fenders to clear at full flex. 82 with wide track axles and 4.88 gears
 

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#5 ·
View attachment 3971735 NO Body lift..... 4" suspension and maybe 1/2" shackle lift. Clears ok unless you really want to flex out. 4.56 or 4.88 gears work well and a 15x8 or 15x10 wheel is good.

36-12.50-15 tsl swampers and just a bit of trim on the trailing edge of the rear fenders to clear at full flex. 82 with wide track axles and 4.88 gears
What size rims do you have in the picture 15x8 or 15x10? Nice jeep btw.

Also, I have heard of people relocating the axles to under the leaf springs. Are there any pros or cons to doing this?

Thanks,
 
#3 ·
I don't know, man. I put a 4-inch SkyJacker on mine because I'd had a good experience with SkyJacker on a full-size Blazer and I ended up having to throw some awful lift shackles on the front and it still barely looked right for 33s.

I like the way Fourtrail's looks a lot but there's no way my SkyJacker 4-inch would work for 35s.


Shawn
 

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#6 ·
I don't know, man. I put a 4-inch SkyJacker on mine because I'd had a good experience with SkyJacker on a full-size Blazer and I ended up having to throw some awful lift shackles on the front and it still barely looked right for 33s.

I like the way Fourtrail's looks a lot but there's no way my SkyJacker 4-inch would work for 35s.

Shawn
What size rims and tires do you have in the picture? That looks good too.

Thanks,
 
#8 ·
1980 is narrow track. I would go at least 8" or even 10". If you go narrower, more than likely your tires will be rubbing the springs on sharp turns and you'll probably end up adjusting your steering stops. Narrow rims will also cause the tires to crown too much needing lower tire pressure to get the tread to sit flat on the road.

dit: As Fourtrail said, 4.56 or 4.88. What transmission do you have? 1980 T-176 has 3.52 low gear. SR4 has 4.07 low gear but is weak.
 
#15 ·
You know, everything in a Jeep is a compromise and going big becomes expensive and is not necessarily better.

The only practical reason for 35" tyres is to increase axle clearances by 3". The required body lift should put the frame up about 6" - 9" and improve entry, departure and break over angles significantly. However it is not all good, as that requires a lot of money to get it right.

You need to fix the Jeep first, then tyres, wheels, flares, brake lines, brake upgrade if you want to stop, pitman arm, lift kits, steering change to power steering, steering upgrade to heavy duty, frame reinforcement around the steering box, maybe driveshaft changes, and maybe axle (one piece axle shafts in the AC20 would be a good idea with 35" tyres) and transmission upgrades (if you have an SR4 transmission it will not last), regear at both ends, and (if you want performance) even an engine upgrade.

At the end you will have a taller CJ with much better clearances off road but it will be slower and more noisy on highway. With those big mud terrains, it will take more than twice as far to stop in the rain so a good job that it travels slowly. Those darn compromises.

In fact you could put a lot more on there, just look at the builds on this Forum. Start making a list of what people have done and you will see that a top end 35" tyre and 4.5-6" lift is easily $5000 in parts plus labour without changing the engine. If you are not doing it yourself then $$$.

Plenty of shops will do it for you but hopefully you will fin out from this Forum what will work and what is a cheap arse build. You can do a cheap arse build of course but it could be horribly compromised.

For instance you will note that all in most of those pictures of CJs with big tyres they are sitting partly outside the body of the Jeep. The tyres should be sitting outside because of the turning radius of a CJ is determined by the front tyres. Those big tyres restrict the movement as they hit the leaf springs, so the stops need to be adjusted to keep them away which in turn restricts the turning circle. the wheels therefore need to move further out.

If you do not then go on a twisty trail and you will find it difficult in sharp turns. Solution for a good lift is either new wheels with greater offset or wheel spacers and wheelarch flares to cover them up. It is illegal in most places and inconsiderate to have tyres stick out from the bodywork so those wheelarch flares are not just for show.

These Jeeps were designed for 29" tyres. With stock suspension you can fit 31" tyres and your only cost is a set of tyres, the 8% change in gearing will not hit too bad on the highway and the turning circle will not be too bad, throw in some wheel spacers and flares and a narrowtrack CJ7 becomes a very wide track with tight turning circle which will get plenty of places.

See Puthijeep which sits on 31" tyres with wider offset wheels and narrow flares, turning circle is a PITA sometimes. Bagusjeep below, 31" tyres, wheelspacers, more offset on the wheels, large flares, can turn in a lot tighter than any rig with 35" tyres.

Cost of each upgrade was much less than $1000. I paid something like $3000 for each CJ and never felt the need to put in a lot more as they are very capable for what I use them for, which is poor condition highways, rough tracks, trails and beach visits. I need some clearance and 4x4 low range and a small amount of carrying ability for the surf board, beer etc. The other money I have put in was for fixing rust, long term maintenance, spares etc.

If you need all that clearance for your usage or just like the look, then start to plan for what you need and the $$$$ you need to spend. Doing something twice is just a waste of cash, for instance 33" tyres and then 35" tyres. For instance when I purchased my J20 it came with 35" tyres which were horrible and slow, it just runs better with 33" tyres.
 

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#17 ·
I have a 2.5" Rough Country Suspension with 1.5" lift shackles. I just picked up the wheels and tires as a trade. These are narrow track axles on a 1980. They catch the leafs when I cut the wheels too sharp. When these tires are done, I'll likely go back to a 33" tire.
Those low profile tires have wide tread width so more interference with springs in tight turns.
 
#19 ·
Mine is also an '80 and had 31x11.50s on stock 15x7 wheels, NarrowTracs, 2.73s, 258 I-6, and a T-176 4-sp when I first bought it back in '95. Honestly, that configuration was the most fun I had with the Jeep - everything was in the power-band and was pretty much bullet-proof.

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Then I had this great idea to jack it up and shove some big tires under it. I went with a Pro-Comp 4" lift and a set of 33x15.50 TSX Swampers on 15x10 modular steel wheels. I loved how it looked, but wound up needing to do some things to make that new configuration more manageable.
  • extended brake lines
  • aftermarket steering stabilizer
  • upgraded brakes
  • learn to live with the anemic 2.73 gears and 12% speedometer error (speedo shows 55 while going 68-ish, will always lose the race off the line)
  • wonder why there wasn't much suspension flex and noticed the rear frame rails were polished clean by the tires
  • keep part numbers handy for axle seals and wheel bearings, since they were now getting worn out much faster

It looked cool, the Swampers sounded awesome rolling down the street, it never got stuck again (those things are diggers!)... but the suspension didn't flex very much (because the tires were so wide on NarrowTrac axles), a handicapped power scooter would beat it across the intersection, and it took roughly twice the distance to slow it down to stop, not to mention the caster is off so it likes to wander a bit - almost like each one of those Swampers has a mind of its own.

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About 7 years later, I had a chance to upgrade the axles to WideTracs, which helped immensely with the flex & rubbing, along with the powerband issues since they came with 4.10s and some other upgrades (Moser 1-piece axles, welded tubes, Warn hub upgrade, etc.). I loved the look even more, but now there's the issue of the powerband pendulum swinging completely to the other side, with a 15% error rate going the other way (now shows 75 when doing 65, can't get across the intersection w/o grabbing 2nd).

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Now, I'm in the process of fixing everything in one major upgrade project so I won't have to mess with all of those issues anymore after retirement kicks in, which involves going up to 35x12.50 Swamper SSRs on 15x10 aluminum rims (back into the powerband and sweet spot of the 4.10s - my opinion). I'll be adding 1" Conn-Ferr shackles up front, and see how things are. If I need to go up with more lift and/or a shackle reversal (or something else) to ensure/improve drivability, so be it... but this is my chance to finally get it right once and for all.

The moral of the story: set your goal, do your research, and make sure to do everything right the first time... otherwise, you'll wind up pretty much buying your Jeep all over again swapping out parts to fix this and/or that over the years after swapping on those big tires (whatever size you wind up going with).
 
#21 ·
Ya know, readjusting them wheel stops will keep the tires off of the springs (what a concept!)

I don't understand the traction concept for a lot of folks real well.

Back in 2010

I have a friend that had a Dodge---with expensive swampers (or something like 'em) on it

Mark insisted I go look at a place that was not real deep and was slightly uphill that he was unable to get up. He wound up backing out of the slick dirt road the night before, as did his other pals.

I bet him that "Willy" would have no problem taking it on. I was just sayin' not really meaning.

He made me back up my claim.

As much as I hate to get one dirty, especially "Willy", "Mr. Jeep" getting dirty is one thing....it's sacrilegious to get "Willy" muddy

'Round here it's slick, red, staining mud.

So we went and got him from the house, and I took a run up the hill.

I probably did not exceed 10 MPH, probably more like 5-7 MPH.

I had some spinning here and there, but mostly it grabbed and was constantly getting it!

Yes, this is bragging----I saw this same situation too many times when I was in the Army. From Jeeps, to Gamma Goats, Deuce and a half's

The NDT tires are almost unstoppable!

They make 'em for 15 inch tubeless rims (Willy has 16 inch tubed rims)

They are not really super expensive---no where near the tires y'all all are running.

If "Mr. Jeep" were in the mud more often, I'd probably be running a set on him.

"Willy" exploits them as they are just part of his Uniform.

I just don't see why more folks don't run them who demand more traction.

Many times I hear, "Wow, you can go anywhere with those tires", it just don't sink in I guess??

----JEEPFELLER
 

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#22 ·
Here's my CJ5 on 35's

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And here's what I did to make them work well:

SOA with Wrangler springs
Moser 1 piece axles in rear AMC 20
Superior alloy axle shafts in front Dana 30
Regear both ends to 4.56:1
Fully welded custom built axle trusses front and rear
Custom built anti-wrap traction arm for rear axle
Custom built hi steer arms
Custom built AISI 4340 tie rod and drag link
1 ton tie rod ends
Tom Woods double cardan rear driveshaft
Custom built front driveshaft
Custom built shock mounts front and rear
Long travel Bilstein shocks
Extended length brake hoses front and rear
Extended length E-brake cables
Upgraded brakes
Not necessarily required, but I also have lockers in both ends, and a swapped in T5 and Dana300.

So....do you just like the look of 35's? Or do you plan to actually USE the 35's?
If all you want is the look, you just need some lift, 4 or 4.5 inches.
But, if you're gonna wheel it with 35's, then you'll need to do a bit more.
 
#35 ·
Here's my CJ5 on 35's

And here's what I did to make them work well:

SOA with Wrangler springs
Moser 1 piece axles in rear AMC 20
Superior alloy axle shafts in front Dana 30
Regear both ends to 4.56:1
Fully welded custom built axle trusses front and rear
Custom built anti-wrap traction arm for rear axle
Custom built hi steer arms
Custom built AISI 4340 tie rod and drag link
1 ton tie rod ends
Tom Woods double cardan rear driveshaft
Custom built front driveshaft
Custom built shock mounts front and rear
Long travel Bilstein shocks
Extended length brake hoses front and rear
Extended length E-brake cables
Upgraded brakes
Not necessarily required, but I also have lockers in both ends, and a swapped in T5 and Dana300.

So....do you just like the look of 35's? Or do you plan to actually USE the 35's?
If all you want is the look, you just need some lift, 4 or 4.5 inches.
But, if you're gonna wheel it with 35's, then you'll need to do a bit more.
THIS ^^^^^^



SOA with Wrangler springs
Waggy Dana 44 Front
Rodeo Dana 44 Rear
Regear both ends to 4.30:1
Custom built anti-wrap traction arm for rear axle
Dana 44 hi steer arms
Custom built tie rod and drag link
1 ton tie rod ends
Double cardan rear driveshaft
Custom built front driveshaft
Custom built shock mounts front (need to re-evaluate)
Long travel shocks
Extended length brake hoses front and rear
Extended length E-brake cables
Disk brakes both ends (still need some work here)
Not necessarily required, but I also have a locker up front and an LS in back.
Trimmed YJ rear mud flairs
6" wide Mud flairs all the way around to cover the tires.

As long as you know what you are in for, cool, if you just want looks, and mild off road, I would probably stick with an OME or BD 3.5-4" lift and 33" tires. BUT... since I am already here....

Just 2 cents for what that is worth.
 
#27 ·
The tyre of choice for Willys here is the bias ply Good Year CUSTOM XTRA GRIP HI MILER. It is tall and narrow at 7.00-15LT and its broad, non-directional pattern ensures they keep going even in the toughest weather and road conditions, for that extra grip in mud or over slippery highways.

For those who are challenged by bias play, it is just under 8 inches wide and 29" in diameter. Compared to similar modern radials, this would be tall and narrow.

A Willys may be low powered but the transfer box, low range, narrow high grip tyres and light weight and chassis flex allows it to go places where other 4x4 really do struggle. It is fashioned for a purpose, its purpose is not fashion.
 

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#31 ·
Would love to have a set of those rims for my '81 CJ5, and transfer the 31x10.5 radials over. Who is the best source, with reasonable pricing, to find a set of 4? Still have the factory steel rim for my spare, and bias ply tube tire, but really prefer that original look :)
 
#29 ·
Yes, soft sand would be an issue with the narrowness but it is a light utility so worst case 8 of us lift it up and carry it.

In Australia the similar pattern were called Firestone Town and Country back in the day and were recommended as an all season tire for the rear of cars.

As the Willys does not go very fast the improved road handling of modern tyres is not needed.
 
#30 ·
4" lift 2" body lift. 36" tires (not the ones pictured). 1 piece Summers Brothers rear axles. Dana 44 up front.
 

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#34 ·
Body lift? No. 4" sticks holding the body off frame is just not stable. Spring replacement with large arched may be too stiff. Spring Over Axle is nice. My son went this way with 35's . It gives you a bit too much lift. About 6".
Three different ways to go. If try new springs bit ask around on the ride stiffness
 
#39 ·
A Jeep CJ5/7 of teh late 70s and 80s came with a 29" tyre as standard. The problem with increasing tyre size is 2 fold:

1. The front wheel wells are generous but you can rub the springs. There are adjustable bump stops. This leaves you with a larger turning circle. Bear in mind that 35" tyres tend to be much wider than 29" tyres, which is part of the rubbing issue. I would advise spacers or wheels with more offset but you can try as long as your rim width can take the tyre safely.

2. The rear wheel wells are more restrictive. Uncut they may have only 30" or so of lateral space in there. You can measure yours as there is variation of the opening. If you want larger tyres you need to either cut the opening wider or lower the tyres and wheels. If you lower the tyres you have to make sure that less than 30" of tyre comes upwards. As leaf springs are not very flexible, this may not require any more but you can extend the bump stops above the rear axle if you want to lower the tub height.

4.5" could get you into 35" tyres, but 6" is better if you want to flex the suspension. At rest the tyre will not hit the tub. If you do not want to flex the suspension, you could try jacking it up on one corner and just check it will not hit and extend the bump stops if it will.

There are a lot of compromises in lifting a Jeep, and lots of combinations. A high lift with big tyres will increase clearances tremendously but add unsprung mass, raise the centre of gravity and require a raft of other changes.
 
#42 ·
A Jeep CJ5/7 of teh late 70s and 80s came with a 29" tyre as standard. The problem with increasing tyre size is 2 fold:

1. The front wheel wells are generous but you can rub the springs. There are adjustable bump stops. This leaves you with a larger turning circle. Bear in mind that 35" tyres tend to be much wider than 29" tyres, which is part of the rubbing issue. I would advise spacers or wheels with more offset but you can try as long as your rim width can take the tyre safely.

.
Somewhat related to this, 10" wide rims will lessen the sidewall bulge and help prevent sidewalls rubbing on the springs.
 
#41 ·
35x12.50s (15x10 rims) on a 4" Pro Comp lift. Should be just fine for street and most semi-improved (dirt) roads, but I'm positive there will be rubbing issues when things start getting twisty. A Rubicon Express 4.5" kit won't be much different.

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The ideal tire size for 4" of lift is 33". These are 33x15.50 TSXs on 15x10s with the same 4" Pro Comp lift, and there were no rubbing issues. (Just sharing for comparison sake)
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#43 ·
These aren't 35s but close https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ict-sam-14 The Super Swamper TSL, LT 34.00 x 9.50-15. Narrow but tall. I have been using a set of the 32s and might buy some of these 34s when the time comes. I have a 4" lift and 1" body lift and am sure they fit easily.
 
#44 ·
Just cause there was some mention of 33's: 2.5 YJ HD ARB springs, 1" shackle lift, 1" body lift 33x11.5x15...fits 33's fine and have never had it rub. I used to run 32's when everything was stock and never had too much trouble with it...slight rubbing occasionally. I also upgraded everything that's been mentioned here: HD steering mount and a cross brace, one piece chromoly axles brake lines, caster correction, driveshafts, regear, HEI, mild cam, TBI conversion, etc etc...and yes $$$ is correct but it's manageable if you do it over time. Most expensive part was the axle shafts and regear (but I did lockers at the same time). I bought parts over about a year and just set them on a shelf until I had everything I needed for the install. Who knows, one day I may spend some money on paint and body ;)

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