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Hi Robert,
Thank you for the info on this topic. While following the thread I was hoping to pick up the part number for the green relay that you mentioned but I could find any links. Could you please share a link where you purchased the part. Thank you once again.
 
Robert,
I don't know if you already know this! Referring to whatever is between pins 85 & 86: It looks like the upper box in the diagram is the coil that drives the switch of the Relay and the lower box is either a safety device to protect the coil, such as a Zener Diode, or a control device to shunt the current away from the coil. If this is a shunt device it would not allow the switch to close no matter whether the input at pins 85 & 86 was trying to close the switch or not.
A Relay is meant to isolate two circuits from each other. The circuit that drives the coil is the control circuit which controls the switch, turning on and off the circuit that is performing the work, in this case the compressor operation on/off.
 
Soooooo, took my jeep to the dealer and of course they couldn't fix sh*T! I'm attempting to repair myself, getting a nitrogen tank coming in end of week and going to attempt to fill the reservoir myself. However the jeep lands on its face every morning, i've replaced the compressor and valve block and still does it, figure there could be a leak in the front struts and would like to try to isolate that as an issue first. Has anyone run an inline valve to pump up the strut and than shut the valve off to detect a leak?

Any help from someone with experience would be great! Thanks
My neighbor has a 2011 JGC Overland, AWD, 5.7L, etc.
His was nose diving over night.
The leak was on the hose connector elbow on top of both front struts.

A few months later his left rear was losing air.
Turns out there was a leak in the airbag from cracking rubber.
He bought an aftermarket air shock on Aamzon and installed it himself in 1/2 an hour.

Now he's got the flashing orange light on the control knob on the center console.
No leaks in the system, it stays at same height over night.
Found a DTC: ASCM | C1562-98 | Stored | Ride Height Air Pump Control-Component or System Over Temperature
Don't know yet what the problem could be.
Will report back when we figure it out.
 
Yeah the compressor is working hard. Just wanted to mention that I'm hearing more valve body problems in Jeeps where folks did a DYI air spring/struts replace and did not purge and refill with 99.999% pure nitrogen. This seems to be corroding the innards and eventually valves start sticking.
 
Yeah the compressor is working hard. Just wanted to mention that I'm hearing more valve body problems in Jeeps where folks did a DYI air spring/struts replace and did not purge and refill with 99.999% pure nitrogen. This seems to be corroding the innards and eventually valves start sticking.
Thx for the update.

I just checked the guy's car and the green relay contacts are cooked.
I also took my a/c gauges and tried connecting the low side valve to the tank.
Guess what?
It works!
Tank pressure @ 106pdi.

He told me that when he installed the air spring that it fit right up to the mounts and there was no induced atmosphere except for the disconnected hose.
He did it on a very hot dry day, so I'm guessing he didn't do any damage (considering that the system uses makeup atmospheric air).

So you can make your own tank connector w/a low-side a/c valve (with the thumb screw open/close).
Then just get a couple connectors to connect it to your nitrogen tank.
And get a propane regulator to regulate it to 175 psi and add a small pressure gauge to it.
It has a length of rubber high pressure hose integrated into it, so there is your flexible connection.
Then use an a/c high pressure line to bridge the gap btw the two connections.
I'm guessing you can do the connection between the two for around 100 bux.

That's what I'm going to do.
The nitrogen tank is an added expense, depending on your local supplier.
 
There are fill procedures and tools for that discussed in the a couple threads indexed in the maintenance/repair sticky thread. Its not that simple to do it right, How are you going to know it has the right air mass?

 
You can take short cuts, but understand that its a closed system and the take up is only to compensate for slow leakage over time, the desiccant can wear out. There are very good reasons to fill with only 99.999% pure nitrogen for longevity. You need to purge the moisture out of the system and refill. The tools you listed is a good start but you need a scanner like AlfaOBD to control it. But then only a WITek has the air mass calculation software. But you probably can get close without the air mass calculation.

Now if you are getting rid of the Jeep within a year it probably doesn't matter, to you. :)

Air bags are not shipped full of nitrogen, that needs to come from somewhere.
 
The green relay is a slow blow type breaker. There is also a fuse. When they cook like that it usually means the compressor has frozen. The sequence usually is to replace the relay, the fuse blows and may damage the relay. You'll blow a few fuses before you pull the connector off the compressor to verify the harness is not shorted.
 
Thanx for the added info.

I put it on the scanner and ran the air mass calc and it says it's low.
So my guess is, it won't inflate the air springs no matter what.
So now it's a matter of doing the fill.

First I'm going to change the green breaker/relay, b/c it's bad.
But I got the pump to work by popping the top off the relay, cleaning up the contacts w/a file (like in the old days) and pressing it into contact position with a screw-driver.
But since (my guess) the valve is closed due to the low pressure, it wasn't pumping anything.

I found a Nitrogen cylinder (40 lb) locally for a under a 100, and a regulator w/h.p. hose on fleaBay for around 140.
Do you know how big a cylinder I need?
The r134a low side valves are cheap on fleaBay, and the only thing left would be an adapter.
All told, probably be able to put together a kit for under 300 bux.

I didn't read the manual yet, but do you have to evacuate it like when you do an a/c system?
If so, then I guess you need a gauge and manifold for that too.
What a royal PITA and UNNECESSARY expense!

Do you know if there's a way to swap out the air struts for mechanical struts?
 
Yeah, the topic comes up often. There are several threads here discussing swapping out air for coil springs that you should be able to find, one recently I think. There are several outfits in Canada that do this routinely and a couple vendors that sell complete kits. You will want to disable the suspention fault message before tearing into it.
 
For example, a search for air coil finds this one:


It may be a good time to think about using a lift kit while you are at it.
 
I agree. Was just looking at some last night.
Do you have any experience on which kit is good quality and what a good price is?
I've seen a lot of them around here, and most of them suck.
Some don't get rid of the Chrysler truck 'death wobble' and some even cause it!
 
I haven't read about any WK2 death wobble.

For lift, OME is pretty good. Perhaps forum sponsor Kolak can find you something suitable.
 
I don't, my WK2 is primarily used for cross country drives, towing, and nasty weather when we had to be at work regardless. Don't need a full time lift. But there are many here that do use OME or Dobson. A few have tried rough country, but their shocks tend to leak. Suncore makes a OEM replacement kind of set.
 
My daughter has my old 2012 JGC Overland and started having air suspension issues. We took it to a dealer a couple years ago, but they missed the leaking air connectors in the front. I found replacements on Amazon (JWK2-A210-ADFU - RMT Air Suspension Elbow Repair Kit). Replacing them depleted some nitrogen and I didn't replenish it. A year later, the system was again causing problems. This time the front was higher than the rear and it was stuck. The warning lights were flashing (service air suspension, etc). I turned the Jeep off and allowed the air suspension pump to cool. Then I started the jeep and set the ride height knob to sport (a low setting for the air system). This worked temporarily. I purchased a Dorman kit (DORMAN 949-301).
Image

It came with a hose and a couple quick connectors. The really important one is the right angle adapter that connects to the tank behind the right passenger seat. I read on one of the posts that a standard AC gauge/charging kit had the correct adapter. I just ordered it for the gauges, but it has a 90 degree (right angle) adapter that should work. I'll update my post when I find out for sure.
Orion Motor Tech AC Gauges from Amazon
Image

I was in a bit of a pinch, and didn't have nitrogen so I just used air from a compressor. I know - I know about nitrogen and why it is used. Nitrogen molecules are larger than air molecules ( 21% oxygen + 78%nitrogen). Using pure nitrogen allows the system to keep more gas from escaping, but when gas does escape, it is refilled as needed by the system using air. I lowered the jeep to its lowest point and filled the tank to roughly 170 lbs. At the lowest setting, the air tank will be at it it's highest pressure, so this should be sufficient.
I did this at night and in the rain because my daughter needed her car the next day, so please don't hate on me :).
It has been a few days now and everything is working fine. No ride height issues, no warning lights. Eventually I may need to do it all properly, but this was a quick and cheap fix (less than $400 - mostly for the Dorman kit). If the AC kit works, then I could have done it for less than $100.
I have a pdf with instructions, but can't figure out how to attach it here. If anyone wants it, please just post reply.
 
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