This vid is for a ZJ (I think) but this repair solved my ABS light:

 

Thanks! What code were you getting? Was it hard getting it out? Did you hacksaw it open or dremel it?

 

I did this re solder repair last year thanks to the info from fzz. I re soldered the large pins coming in that connect to the pump. Also the 4 larger pins in the group of 27 going to the main connector. Had the same code. Problem solved. I used a hack saw to open it up. Works well. FYI - I noticed there are remanufactured units for sale that look like they werent cut open . Makes me think its possible to open the controller using a heat gun, maybe. The hacksaw is pretty safe. Lastly if you get a used controller cheap, it probably already has this problem.

 

Thanks - I am thinking of getting one on ebay cheap and opening and soldering that. That way if I have any issues the jeep can still get back to how it is. Can you see the part number without taking it off? Or can you use any part number as long it is from same year and model? Please see photo attached...

 

The part number is on the outside of the controller, but there are several versions. I'm not sure how interchangeable they are. Some have different configurations for the connector.

 

I didn't yet pull out my air box - I did pull off the wire and looked at those tags and the plug. Being lazy and toolless today - can I tell which used controller to order with just this info? Please see the 2 photos attached...

 

If you cut open the controller along its seam. You're safe because the chips all sit on the board lower than the seam.

 

Are you sure about code description AND that it is a internal CAB fail?

 

Sorry I'm unable to see your photos, not set up with the forum. The number of the controller says "controller" above it. Mine is an 8 digit number with three letters at the end. The code 09 means the controller isnt working. From what people say, its usually a solder joint, this seems to be a common problem across many vehicles. But its always possible a component failed on the board, just not likely. There is a utube video of someone changing out his controller on a wj. ( he didnt feel comfortable with soldering,).Once the airbox is off the controller comes off with 4 screws. You can always buy a refurb unit if you dont succeed.

 

so i got the pictures you posted. the one of the used controller seems to have a label stuck on it ,not original, hiding the actual model number. your other picture has the info off the abs pump. if you pull off your airbox you'll see the model number on your controller. its where that label is on the picture you have of the used unit. you dont have much chance of matching your unit to another without seeing the model number on each unit.

 

While you are in there I suggest you look around for other dry joints, and re-solder them.

Condensers / capacitors are a another favourite to fail.

Many pictures to guide you here: -

https://www.google.com/search?q=Dry...=X&ved=2ahUKEwivjPDR-tDzAhXLgVwKHbOoAKsQ_AUoA3oECAEQBQ&biw=832&bih=338&dpr=1.93

https://www.google.com/search?q=bad...BqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=itVrYe7eHMCDur4Pr6WxyAE&bih=338&biw=832

 

As has been said above, if you got another used control unit there's no guarantee that won't have the same fault - my WJ came with the fault light on when i bought her, and someone had already fitted a used unit (along with all new abs sensors to try and get rid of the fault light...) - the unit fitted obviously had knackered joints but I don't think they changed the spec of the abs ecu between 99 & 05 - hopefully someone can confirm.

 

Is it safe to drive without the ABS also will it drive while I have this Control Module out and fixing it? I work on a city street so not as easy as having a driveway or garage. I am also not sure what bit / socket is needed to remove the control module - a youtuber said that it is the rare E5 female torque bit - but it looks more like a female allen wrench type to me? Any help would be great!! Home Depot does not carry the E5 female torque but Amazon does. Please see my photos taken today.

 

Is it safe to drive without the ABS also will it drive while I have this Control Module out and fixing it?

Yes, it'll still drive just fine with the module removed. When the ABS light is on to indicate a fault, the ABS is completely disabled anyway, which is basically the same as removing the module.

It's perfectly safe to drive (you've already been driving without any ABS for however long the light's been on), you just won't have the benefit of the computer modulating the braking should you have to brake hard enough to lock the wheels.

 

If your abs light is on. You already are driving without abs. But it wont pass inspection. My guess is you can drive with the controller off since it's not working anyways, but i am not sure about that maybe someone can answer that

 

It won't be as safe without the ABS working.
Even if you can remember how to cadence brake.

Cadence braking is where you rapidly press and let off your brakes.

Like SSM, I can't see any mechanical reason why you won't be able to drive it.
Your car's electronics may say otherwise though.

 

Thanks - anyone remember when they did this? I am not sure what bit/socket to order to remove this control module - one youtuber said it's a E5 female torque. Please see my photos taken today.

 

E5 female is correct. And yes you found the model number for the controller. When i did this i picked up 4 small washers to make sure the screws still held the controller in place, used silicone to seal the case. Remember to peel away the silicone on the circuit board where you re-solder.

 

Thanks!

 

It's an E5. I got one from Napa.

 

Great to know - I will give soldering mine a shot.

 

Been driving with the ABS light glowing in my face for a year now. Female E-Torx set on order. Cheaper than a new scanner that reads ABS, and definitely worth a shot... Even though I really should invest in a new scanner....

 

So I turned off the ABS light with my code reader. And I have been driving it - but light remains off. This only came on when I was driving it terrible start fast stop turnpike traffic. I have not had any issues since clearing codes - and break reserve tank looks fine. Any thoughts

 

Give yourself pat on the back.
And keep your fingers crossed.

 

Haha - any theory what caused the ABS system to cause the light to come on? I was really doing some serious braking in fast stop and start turnpike traffic heading into NYC at rush hour - trying to beat getting stuck in a very long traffic jam...

 

Just a guess, but could be the beginning of a loose solder joint. The sudden joint caused it to move? If thats the cause it will eventually get worse but could take a long time.

 

Well I am ready - once it returns!

 

20220114_184933.jpg

• SoCal97OrvisV8
• Jan 15, 2022
• brake booster

This is the hydraulic pump plug harness?

 

The plastic tabs that hold the wires is degraded did to power steering fluid would be my best bet any one know where I can find a replacement wire connector or fix?

 

Maybe try cleaning with brake cleaner and then post a photo. I am not sure. It is ironic that you posted on my old thread - out of the blue I got an ABS light today - the Jeep had been sitting a few weeks - it went off after a while - I didn't get any codes on my cheapo code reader - not sure if it is good with ABS - says it can but I am not so sure. In my case I think it is just my battery is getting to the point it should be replaced - it is from 11/17. Never fails to start - but is slow turning right off. I read on here that low battery can trigger an ABS light sometimes. No too sure though.

 

Maybe try cleaning with brake cleaner and then post a photo. I am not sure. It is ironic that you posted on my old thread - out of the blue I got an ABS light today - the Jeep had been sitting a few weeks - it went off after a while - I didn't get any codes on my cheapo code reader - not sure if it is good with ABS - says it can but I am not so sure. In my case I think it is just my battery is getting to the point it should be replaced - it is from 11/17. Never fails to start - but is slow turning right off. I read on here that low battery can trigger an ABS light sometimes. No too sure though.

Every time you start your car you get a very low battery Harv.

I suspect what you read needs filing under urban myth.