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90 YJ 4.2 Nuttered Ignition Wiring

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6.6K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  jbolty  
#1 ·
Afternoon all,
I have a 90 YJ 4.2 with the 2150 Carb that has been Nuttered and nearly everything ripped out of the engine bay. I started out last week to replace the ICM due to a suddenly developed (this year) sporadic engine shut off, as well as to remove the remaining old electrical harness along the firewall and have only the actively used wires. Problem is I cut a few extra wires going a little too quickly and now I have a no start. The starter will engage but I verified I am getting no spark. I attached a picture showing how I have everything wired up, I am looking for some help to find what I have wrong. Also the coil is new, and I am now currently hooked up to the new ICM. I verified I was getting power to the coil (+) terminal during engine start.
I hope my drawing is understandable, but I will give a brief description to aid it. The letters above the ICM are the colours of the wires, the letters for 4 of them are the colours of the wire after the connectors which i kept, so Black, Green with White stripe, Yellow, and Green, with the remaining two wires without a connector going directly to the distributor being the Orange and Violet wire. While the letters underneath (B, G/W, Y, G) are the colours of the wires when they come out of the ICM before the connector so, Black with Green stripe, Green, Red, and White.
I drew the starter relay how it appears when viewing straight on. The 'hub' is the positive post feeding the rest of the jeep and is connected to the two red wires coming out of the factory style alternator as well as the battery. I have maintained all of the fusible links at this post. Relay connection 1 goes to the + side of the coil when the key is in the start position, connection 2 is connected to the starter solenoid, and connection 3 is connection to the ICM along with the ignition wire that has 12v in the start only position.
The ignition wire with 12v in the ON and Start position is connected to the Yellow or Red wire at the ICM along with the alternator resistance wire.
The (-) Side of the coil is connected to the Green with White stripe or Green wire at the ICM along with the wire that runs to the tachometer.

I was using the original ICM to test everything but fearing I totally fried it I switched to the new one and tried the current wiring setup without it being able to start.
I also tried reversing the coil connections but that did nothing.
I ensured the starter relay was grounded properly which it is since the starter will activate when attempting to start.
I verified I have 12v in the ignition ON/START wire, as well as 12v in the START ONLY wire when the key is in the start position
I used an inline spark tester to confirm I am not getting any spark at the plug
The ignition coil is new last year and since it still started before I ripped the wires out I have no reason to believe it is the problem
To simply further, the colours coming out of the new ICM are Black, White, Orange, Violet, Red, Green.

Any help figuring this out would be greatly appreciated!

Brent
 

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#2 ·
Update:
I started rechecking my connections and the distributor pigtail was horribly gunked and corroded so I removed it and made good connections.
Now the jeep will fire but immediately shut off, so it lights up as I turn the key but will not idle, it just shuts off as soon as I stop turning the key.

Also what is a filter capacitor? I was reading that in the schematics it is connected to the (+) side of the ignition coil, but I don’t believe I ever had that there. It wasn’t there before I removed the remaining parts of the harness.

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
#3 ·
you need key on power to the coil . wright now you only have power to the coil when the key is in the start position. The original wire was a resistor connected to the yellow running down to the ignition module. It has to be keyed power so you can shut the engine off. The filter capacitor is for radio static.
 
#4 ·
Thank you! The jeep is now running. So now the ignition wire which is 12v in run and start positions connects to the red wire on the ICM and the (+) side of the coil.
Should the starter relay wire I have listed as #1 just be removed?
Am I correct to have the alternator resister wire connected to the same wire that now feeds the (+) side of the coil and the ICM red wire?
 
#6 ·
So now everything will run but since the alternator resistor wire is connected to the ignition wire and the (+) side of the ignition coil, when I turn the key off it’s still getting 5v from the resistor wire and the engine won’t turn off. It just runs super rough obv because the reduced voltage so I have to pop a vacuum line off to kill the engine.

So where do I connect the alternator resistor wire? The schematics say where I had it unless I’m misreading those.

Note: don’t try and kill the engine by pulling the dizzy feed wire from the coil, I got a nasty zap LMAO. Should have realized that would happen #DarwinAward
 
#9 ·
Thank you! That is what I ended up doing last night and to the same orange wire coming out of the engine side of the firewall. It read about .2v lower than the battery which leads me to believe its closer to the end of the circuits and from what I have read that is better so that the alternator actually keeps the battery topped up and not slightly below. Thanks for the help!