A few pics from tear down:

And a few of my buddy helping apply the Monstaliner. The original paint code is "OH" - Navy Blue. This color is called Midnight Special and was the closest I could find to a true navy blue from Monstaliner.

 

Think I'll wrap up this first set of posts with some pics of it going back together. Here the dash is almost ready to install. I still had a few cables to install and I ended up taking the gauges back out and doing a light restoration on them. I may do a post on that process later. I also drilled a hole for a future addition of a tach and added some press fit nuts for the dash pad to bolt to. Thanks to Keith for those excellent ideas from his dash posts.

My father-in-law helped weld up this custom front bumper... which I have since given to a buddy for his CJ5. I bought an aftermarket one which I will install after my YJ springs.

Nice clean shot of the dash reinstalled. I'm not going to install a radio back in this Jeep so still looking for ideas on how to fill that space...

a good rear shot showing the red tailgate. It also had green full doors which I removed and stored. Jeep of many colors for sure. I took a little road trip to Iowa to pickup this family style roll bar from a 93 YJ. Eventually I will bolt it in after I finish the sheet metal work on the rear front floor and waterfall area.

 

Not too shabby. My brother and I both have blue 80 CJ7s. I think it's the best year for some reason. Also have an 80 chief waiting it's turn for some TLC.

I've always been dead set to keep the patina but she's getting a good bit of cancer going now so I'm planning a repaint sometime this summer.

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Not too shabby. My brother and I both have blue 80 CJ7s. I think it's the best year for some reason. Also have an 80 chief waiting it's turn for some TLC.

I've always been dead set to keep the patina but she's getting a good bit of cancer going now so I'm planning a repaint sometime this summer.

Nice. I would love to see your CJ and that Chief as well. Love those. I also think there is something special about the 80 model year for some reason. Just about the last year for the V8 (I think it was mid year into the 81 model year when they discontinued it), but I do wish it had the wide track axles. I don't think those were available until 82.

Good luck on your repaint - would like to see that project.

 

Looks like a good project. Looking forward to following your progress.

 

Greetings Rob! I'm right there with ya, putting my '80 CJ-7 back together (OK, more of a drive train swap, but lots of resto work on the swap items). Glad to see you mentioned being a Mustang fan, but how do you feel about a '71 Mach 1? (Most of the Vintage Mustang crowd hate 'em almost as much as the poor Mustang IIs).

I noticed you have some YJ bits in there (seats & family bar), and I like it! Some of the YJ bits were improved greatly over the earlier CJ-7 things. For instance, I picked up an early YJ hard top with my donor Jeep, and my buddy hooked me up with some later model paddle-handle hard doors, so I'm definitely looking forward to the better outward visibility, and not having to slam the doors so hard to close 'em.

I also noticed you have a 304, which is what I'm swapping into mine. Can't wait to see your Jeep back together - it's coming along nicely!

 

Thanks Eric. Gotta admit I am more of a fan of the 60's Mustangs with the 67 fastback being my favorite. The 71-73's look the same to me although I know there are differences - I just never learned them. a neighbor down the street who I haven't met yet has a 73 Mach1 which my wife thinks is super cool. Would love to see pics of yours! I have a 65 coupe that I'll be working on when my CJ is "complete". (If this ever happens!)

In addition to the YJ stuff you mentioned, I also upgraded to a YJ dual-diaphragm brake booster and my windshield frame is from a 93 wrangler. I have a good 30 hours of work in that frame as I converted it to CJ use. It has the threaded holes in the upper corners so I will add the spreader bars when I install the family roll bar.

Thanks for following!

 

Your project looks like it’s coming along nice, thanks for sharing. I can appreciate when a guy or gal does their own work, which is how most seem to do it in this CJ forum, so you get my respect for that.👍

I’m not a fan of the bed liner, but it’s your Jeep, so have at it. That’s the last I’ll mention it.

As far as the small lift & 33’s goes, I think that’s a great compromise for a Jeep that looks close to stock, but can still perform off road. Folks seem to like the OME 2.5” YJ lift springs on a CJ, so that may be worth considering.

What gear ratio and differentials are you going to run with the 33’s, I believe these two components when selected properly will make a big difference in the way it drives and performs.

I see you have some nice YJ seats installed, good score!

I made a new front bumper out of a piece of steel C-channel for my CJ-7. I like it because it looks like the stock bumper, but is much stronger.

Keep the updates rolling in, I’ll be following.

 

Your project looks like it’s coming along nice, thanks for sharing. I can appreciate when a guy or gal does their own work, which is how most seem to do it in this CJ forum, so you get my respect for that.👍

I’m not a fan of the bed liner, but it’s your Jeep, so have at it. That’s the last I’ll mention it.

As far as the small lift & 33’s goes, I think that’s a great compromise for a Jeep that looks close to stock, but can still perform off road. Folks seem to like the OME 2.5” YJ lift springs on a CJ, so that may be worth considering.

What gear ratio and differentials are you going to run with the 33’s, I believe these two components when selected properly will make a big difference in the way it drives and performs.

I see you have some nice YJ seats installed, good score!

I made a new front bumper out of a piece of steel C-channel for my CJ-7. I like it because it looks like the stock bumper, but is much stronger.

Keep the updates rolling in, I’ll be following.

Ax, I've been following your build as well. Really love the 4.7 stroker build you did! Seeing your bumper build, welding table, and now the 8" rear end, I think I could learn quite a bit about fab work from you. My little MIG140 is my entry into metal work and welding. So far I am just trying to create work that does not look too much like a noob.

The AMC20 in my CJ has diff code "Y". This was a hard code to track down but from what I can find it is a 3.07 with Tracloc. In the near future I will do the YJ spring "lift" and I do plan on using OME springs. (Matt's thread on this was fantastic and very helpful.) After that and the tires, I plan to re-gear to 4.11's. I've done considerable research on the drive train (T176 and D300) and I think this will get my cruising RPM's in the right spot as well as provide good highway acceleration and off-road performance. I'm always open to suggestions though. Now is the time before I start buying parts! I did just pick up a used lower gear-range carrier for the Dana30 up front.

And those seats... I love the seats. Kind of a blue tweed with the built-in ashtrays in the back. Classic! They are actually pretty comfortable too. The original seats were Bucket seats, high back, blue, Denim vinyl (code 3PK), but I think these fit so much better. Thanks for following!

 

When I swapped over to WideTracs, I bought an AMC 20 from a forum member (Jeeps Unlimited) with 4.10s, Moser 1-piece axles, a Detroit, and welded tubes for $400 - couldn't pass it up! I later found a Dana 30 WideTrac with a Warn conversion, but needed a carrier and 4.10s (all said and done, another $400 - heckuva deal). That was the upgrade from the factory NarrowTracs w/2.73s & open diffs - slapping on a set of 33x15.50 TSX Swampers killed all of the engine's low-end grunt and struggled to maintain speed on the freeway.

I've also discovered that I'm not a fan of 4.10s with 33s - I couldn't get across the intersection without having to grab 2nd (T-176), and the 258 was screamin' around almost 3000 rpms just to keep up with traffic on the freeway. Somewhere in the middle of that is what I should've gone with to be happy with those TSXs (3.54s or even 3.31s would've been much better, like jeep_boy02 mentioned).

Since I'm swapping in the 304 with MPFI and some other goodies (not doing a full rebuild, unless I discover the engine is junk when I fire it up), I'm upsizing to 35" SSRs in order to bring the powerband back to where [I think] it needs to be (my original 2.73s w/31x11.50s were just about right, with cruising rpms around 2000 at 65mph) - not to mention the TSXs are 26 years old now, so I'm not willing to trust them on the freeway.

Here's mine as it sits with the new shoes (a few weekends ago):

And just for fun, here's my Mustang - it was a pile of rust in the shape of a '71 Mach 1 when I first got it in 2010, and took about 4 years to get to this point. Still got a few things to do, but I'm focused on the Jeep for now.

 

@jeep_boy02 and @Mister4x4 thanks... this is really good feedback and it sounds like I should be considering 3.54's or maybe 3.73's at the lowest end. I will definitely go back to the drawing board before buying ring and pinions.

@jeep_boy02 very nice Jeep. I like that your winch is low profile so to speak. The one I have for mine is so tall it almost covers all the grill slots.

@Mister4x4 Great looking Jeep as well! Really like your wheels - are they 15x10 or 15x8? And that Mustang is about as nice a '71 as I have seen. Beautiful car!

I think you guys both mentioned EFI. What kit did you use? A lot of guys talk about the Sniper EFI, but I have had my eye on this one for a little while. Maybe in a year or two after my build budget levels out. Edelbrock 35650: Pro-Flo 4 EFI System for AMC 304, 360, 390 & 401 V8 Engines - JEGS High Performance

Still, would be nice to get feedback on other kits. thanks!

 

Thanks for the kind words!

The wheels are 15x10 Pro Comp 69s (polished) with 35x12.50 Super Swamper SSRs. I have a Pro Comp 4" lift installed back in 1996, which has not settled or sagged a bit over time, although it's still a pretty stiff ride. Here's the difference between the 33x15.50 TSXs and 35x12.50 SSRs (also, the difference between the factory CJ hard top glass and 1980 factory doors vs. later model 'paddle handle' doors):

I'll be painting the top and doors to match the old ones, of course... but that's low on the list right now.

I went with the Edelbrock Pro-Flow MPFI system with the Edelbrock Universal EFI Sump (since my fuel lines are set-up for the 258 that came out during the 304 swap). I'll actually be installing that in the next few weeks - month (depending on how things go getting other things done). I have an Edelbrock E-Street TBI for my Mustang's 351C, and I was originally planning on getting one for the 304 (as it came with an Edelbrock Performer intake), but Edelbrock quit making them, so I went with the Pro-Flow. I'd even considered swapping the E-Street onto the 304, but they don't make a Pro-Flow for the 351 Clevelands... just the Windsors. So... I guess I'll have a spare Performer intake on the shelf when this is all said and done - which I suppose I could use the 1406 Performer 4bbl carb that came off the Mustang, but I'm all-in on getting this done with fuel injection.

I'll definitely post progress as I go (I have a build thread, too).

 

I've been eyeing the proflow also. Last I checked they had AMC V8s in stock at Summitt.

Another huge difference and an absolute must upgrade I recommend is a DUI HEI ignition. Runs way better ever since that. Not sure on the compatibility or what needs to be done to jive with proflow or other EFIs tho.

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There are two kits - one with an Android Slate for the bluetooth connection to use the set-up app, but I already had an HP Slate 7 for the E-Street TBI for the Mustang... as well as you can download the app to a phone and connect that way - saves around $70 on the kit as well. Since Summit was out of stock for the Slate kit, I checked Edelbrock directly and they were out of those as well... so I got the non-Slate kit direct from Edelbrock instead back in November. Edelbrock P/N: 35650; Summit P/N: EDL-35650 (currently out of stock at both).

The Pro-Flow actually comes with an HEI distributor that's controlled by the ECU (no coil, though), so there's that also, otherwise I would've gone with a Team Rush upgrade to the Duraspark system (I had that on my 258 since 2002 - when it was called "TFI Upgrade" - and it worked like a champ with a 45KV Ford TFI Super Coil). I've got an Accel Super Coil since the dizzy doesn't have the GM HEI-style (coil included) cap.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the info on the EFI kits . I noticed the Edelbrock kit came with a HEI distributor but as jeep_boy02 mentioned, I think the DUI distributors are really nice. One of those has been on my short list of upgrades for this year. Down the road we'll see if the EFI kit plays nice with it. For now my Motorcraft 2100 carb is doing pretty good. The Jeep runs a little rich, but I haven't really spent a great deal of time adjusting it. Once I get this body work done, I'm looking forward to knocking out some of these "Saturday upgrades." I know the HEI is going to be a big improvement!

 

Actually, the DUI is basically a GM-style HEI distributor, and IMHO - overpriced for what it is. A lot of people swear by them, but just like with MSD, Accel, Mallory, etc., it's based on HEI technology. I'm not saying they're bad products, or anything like that... "shop smartly," is all I'm saying.

Be advised also that not all HEI kits are the same. A buddy of mine went through 2 HEI kits (that also chewed up his cam gear) trying to make HEI work. He eventually went back to Duraspark.

I also had an MC2100 on my 258 running the TFI Upgrade (Google 'Team Rush' for the run-down of what's involved with that). It's basically Duraspark on steroids, and all that's really involved is upsizing the cap & rotor on your existing Duraspark distributor and adding a resistor inline with the ignition module, then swapping out the stock coil for a 45KV coil. Open up the spark plug gaps a little bit and your rich condition goes away. Changing the jets could help as well, depending on whether they're the right ones for your application.

Once mine was installed and working well (on my 258), we did the same thing to my other buddy's '75 CJ-5 w/304 (which had an Edelbrock Performer intake & 1406 4bbl carb, shorty headers, and a mid-range "RV" cam) - that thing was a beast, and it let you know as well.

Hope that helps, and gives you another option (cheap and easy, at that).

 

Just saw your thread Rob. You've got allot done. If you want a set of wide track axles I see a guy on criagslist in St. Charles that sometimes has some stuff for sale, not sure if he has had any of them though. What's next on the list of things to do?

 

Jim,
It would be nice to have a local parts contact - although I don't have plans to change axles at this time. Right now I am doing some body work. There are a few rust holes in the body that I am addressing. Of course, as I open up one area there are more issues lurking underneath! I'll post some of the body work progress soon, but it's slow going. I am waiting for a shipment from Classic Enterprises before I can go any further.

 

I bought a V8 tach from a guy in NC who is active on Facebook marketplace. I usually am really happy with what I get from him, but this deal looks to be a flop. I bought it about 2 months ago and just got around to installing it this weekend. When I had my dash out I drilled the hole for the tach and patiently waited for the right one to come along - I thought this was it. The description was one of those "worked when removed" and since it was removed just one day earlier, I took the risk. I didn't clean it up too much as you can tell from the fog in the glass but when I wired it in-line with the red ignition wire coming from my ignition switch, the needle didn't move. The Jeep started just fine though which was odd, and as a troubleshooting step I unhooked the wires and left them unhooked to verify the Jeep would not start that way.

I'm not sure if these can be repaired, but I am already in it for $140, so I'm thinking of cutting my losses and replacing this with a new Speedhut tach. I was going to go this route anyway. Unfortunately the price of those have gone up sine I last checked. Unsure if anyone out there can suggest a place that fixes these factory tachs or if anyone wants to buy a non-working V8 tach and tool around on it yourself? Frustrating to say the least.

 

I just bought a new Crown Automotive tach from Summit Racing (same appearance) for $73-ish. The instructions said not to use the factory harness wiring, but to hook it up as if it were an aftermarket tach. The SunTach I originally had clamped onto my standard tilt steering column won't work with the automatic column (since the collar moves with the shifter lever, and the automatic gear selector indicator is right where the tach used to live on the old column).

Looks awesome! What size hole saw did you use? I don't know if I have a 2 7/16" (2 1/2" definitely) for mine.

Here's a link to the Summit Racing page: Crown Automotive J5459418 Crown Automotive Tachometers | Summit Racing

Here's a link to the instructions: https://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/13017.pdf

Hope this helps!

 

Eric... I drilled a 2 7/8" hole for the tach. I used these templates I found in Keith's old thread, I think. These figures assume factory guages and I know some of the aftermarket stuff is slightly smaller. Thanks for the recommendation on the Crown unit. I'm not sure I trust Crown for electronics - I usually try to steer away from Omix and Crown whenever possible... It is good to know that you had no problems with yours.

 

Thanks for the info! I haven't actually installed mine yet (just got it last week), but it's on the to-do list. When I punch the hole for the tach, I'll need to relocate my cigarette lighter (since I'll need it as a power socket for the phone and whatnot). I was thinking of just eye-balling it, but having the actual measurement will be very helpful. Thanks again!

 

The body work on ole blue is slow going. I get about one evening a week to work on it and there's not much to post about that yet except for a bunch of rust and mangled steel. I did get a quick win with my new headlight setup though! I've been planning to buy LED headlights for a long time now, but then I got connected to a guy named Daniel Stern via a thread here on the forum. I think Keith460 recommended him. Wow, this guy forgot more about lighting than I will ever know! He talked me out of LEDs claiming that Halogens provided superior lighting. He used terms I had to look up and referenced studies done abroad. On top of all this he made it easy to buy from him and his products were top-shelf. I would definitely recommend him to anyone going down this path. At least talk to him, but be prepared to receive a lengthy email full of a lot of scientific facts. Not for everyone, but I geeked out on it some.

So I started this process by pulling out the old buckets and cleaning/painting them. They were really dirty.

And after a couple of thin coats of Rustoleum flat black:

I then test fit the new Halogen bulb and the glass headlight unit in the stock buckets. Everything fit with NO CUTTING, making me a happy camper. I could tell during assembly that this was quality stuff. You just know as your installing it how it fits and feels...

I also spent a little extra and bought a wire harness already completed for an original 3-wire setup like the CJ's. It was time and money well-spent. The connections were quality-made and watertight. Everything plugged directly into my stock harness (I didn't cut or splice a single wire). The required relays and fuses were also wired it needing only a mounting location to be provided. And because I was able to use the stock buckets, I didn't have to worry about anything touching the radiator.

I'm not loving the placement of the fuses (attached to the battery tray) but I'll revisit this one day when I am bored. (ha)

I really wish I had thought of doing a before and after. The old headlights were so dim and yellow... I am really happy with how this turned out. If there is one thing I would do different, I would have wanted the glass to be convex to match the original sealed-beam bulbs. I didn't realize the Kyoto glass was flat in front when I selected it. I think Daniel Stern has other options if this is a deal breaker for you.

 

I hit the 10 attachment limit on the previous post! So here goes... the unveiling:

 

I need to do the same thing to mine with the Halo H4 lights I picked up. Thanks for sharing the pics - looks great!

 

Eric, You will be so happy with the results after doing the upgrade. Well worth the time and money.

 

How much do you want for the non working tach?
There is not really that many parts inside one of those.

 

How much do you want for the non working tach?
There is not really that many parts inside one of those.

Hey John, I have it listed on the site for $40 - Factory V8 Tach

I don't know what makes these AMC tachs tic, but I assumed that there was not much to them. They are also pretty fool-proof to wire in - just the one wire besides the illumination wires. Have you ever seen one not work, but allow the Jeep to still fire up? Is it possible I was sold a I6 tach instead? I wouldn't know how to tell those apart.

As far as the price, I literally pulled that out of the air. I figure it has some value as an original V8 tach, even if it doesn't work. If you're interested at any price, let me know.

 

I think the only visual difference is the redline on the I6 vs the V8.

Fortunately they used a clever way to pull the signal off the circuit so unless a wire falls off, it will allow the engine to run.
They do use a electrolytic capacitator in the circuit and those have a tendency to go bad and the tach stops working.

I'll PM you.

 

Hi all. I'm hoping someone out there has run into this issue as I have where the steering shaft contacts the lower radiator outlet.

A leaky steering box led to a detour on my project this Winter and I ended up refreshing the steering system. I had the steering box rebuilt at PowerSteering.com (local Missouri company and highly recommend) and fitted a M.O.R.E. HD steering box bracket - stock NOT the 1" forward mount. The steering shaft has not changed, but I did fit a new coupling kit to it.

Now that everything is back together, I'm noticing the steering coupler is contacting the lower radiator outlet and the lower hose is contacting the steering shaft. I don't recall this being an issue before I started the work, but I know it was always close tolerance.

I'm thinking of modifying the radiator mounting holes enough to allow the radiator to mount about 1/2 inch higher on the grill, but wondering if anyone has run into this when putting their CJ back together and if there are any solutions I haven't considered. I'm 100% certain the steering box and the MORE bracket are mounted properly with the included bolts, spacers, etc.

Always appreciate the help from the forum.