[Mark-318-IT]

i'm waiting for an answer from hipotek and comp cams.

in the meantime, i'd like to get a high volume oil pump.
any suggestion? any link?
honestly i have no idea what to look for

 

[Timo_90xj]

i'm waiting for an answer from hipotek and comp cams.

There was some talk on the FRP facebook group regarding Comp cams/ HipoTek, and the issue is Comp cams hasn't been able to supply the cams. Richard himself replied on that thread.

in the meantime, i'd like to get a high volume oil pump. Any suggestion?

I bought a Melling high volume pump, and have been very happy with it.

 

[Mark-318-IT]

thanks for the heads up Timo.

i made a lil miskate and bought this one from ebay for a 360 magnum, without knowing anything about it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Volum...ally Aspirated|Engine - Liter_Display:5.9L&_nkw=5.9+magnum+high+volume+oil+pump
i hope it's good

i'm chatting with comp cam at the moment though.
will keep you updated.

 

[zjosh93]

Enginetech is alright. I've put there stuff in some engines and it worked fine. That pump looks almost exactly like the Melling M72HV even down to the "M72HV" cast into the body. I wonder if Melling is casting the housings for Enginetech and they are doing the finish machining and adding the hardware.

 

[Mark-318-IT]

Thanks Josh.

at the moment i bought:
-ignition kit
-oil pump
-prothane motor mounts

i'm missing the cam and some kind of rebuild kit, but i want to see the internals first.
also missing a couple of pulleys, spark plugs and a pcv i think.

can you guys help me fill this table? i don't want to make mistakes, it's for the cam.

 

[Mark-318-IT]

hi guys,
idea is: 212 intake duration/218 exhaust duration .510 intake lift/.510 exhaust lift 110 lsa.

also, do you think it's better to put in a new timing chain too?
90000 miles on this engine, more or less.

 

[Timo_90xj]

also, do you think it's better to put in a new timing chain too?
90000 miles on this engine, more or less.

My original timing chain was pretty severely stretched when I swapped the heads and cam few years ago. Had to pull some stuff apart last summer, and having no more than about 10k miles on the new silent type chain it was already stretched a bit.

I swapped to double roller.

 

[Mark-318-IT]

i get the point, i'll get a double roller.
do you think is it worth to spend about 100 usd for an hipotek or an ebay one like this is enough
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Tim...S+OHV+Naturally+Aspirated&epid=110214253&hash=item2f18fbe140:g:Uk4AAOSwv2tayPTn
?

thanks

 

[Mark-318-IT]

Hi guys,
i'm placing the order for everything from hipotek in the end.

at this point everything i asked in the previous messages is ordered or in process to be ordered.

i need a rereing kit and a gasket kit.
what do you think about this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Jeep-...rysler-RERING-MAIN-BRGS-KIT/274385472535?hash=item3fe2a60c17:g:TfEAAOSwKule1n5z

keep in mind that i won't push shi*load of power out of this 360, but you know how i drive....i'm always laying rubber and redlining the shi* out of it.

i'm attaching a few pics that i took a couple of days ago while tearing down the bottom end.
also, keep in mind that this engine comes from a niner that cought on fire, so the milky-stuff is probably from the attempt to put the fire out.

also, how do i know if i need "bigger" rings and bearings (as asked in the ebay link)?
what do you think?

 

[zjosh93]

That kit includes pistons. Are you getting the block bored? I don't recall the Magnum having piston issues so no need to replace good stock pistons, at least for a mild build. The crank should be rebalanced for new pistons anyways. And if I'm not mistaken, the stock rods use press fit wrist pins so you'd need a machine shop to replace the pistons.

You only need bigger bearings or rings if the engine has been over bored or the crank has been ground under size. Aftermarket under sized bearings are usually marked with the under size (i.e., 010, 020, etc.). The bearing pic is a tad blurry but I don't see that mark. Really the best way is to measure the bore and crank diameters with a micrometer or caliper. Even the cheap $20 digital calipers are accurate enough. The crank is a little grooved in those pics but doesn't look bad enough to require machining.

I usually buy Mahle/Clevite bearings and Hastings rings. But that's just me.

 

[Mark-318-IT]

thanks for the tips,
not getting the block bored.
not gonna replace the pistons, but gonna replace piston rings.

i have a caliper, i'll try to take measurements to be sure, but i don't remember to be any writings on them.

 

[Mark-318-IT]

hi guys,
i didn't have the chance to take proper measuerments with a caliper , i'm way to busy with work lately.
anyway i took a better look at bearings, and there is no writings that says 010, 020 or whatever.

writings say:
11 37 D1
DA 49
on the smaller one

and
11 97 - 85
B 4
on the bigger one

i assume they are stock size, correct?
i'll measure the crank to be sure though
attaching pics

 

[zjosh93]

I would guess those were stock.

FYI if you measure everything and find you need to tighten up the oil clearance by just a little, there are 0.001" and 0.002" under size bearings (for the standard size). You can use a half a 0.001" set to get 0.0005" adjustment. The mismatch doesn't hurt anything.

 

[Mark-318-IT]

i think evryhting is ordered,
gotta wait for the parts to come to italy now

 

[Mark-318-IT]

hi guys,
still waiting for some stuff, engine is open now.
everything looks good minus that shi* from the fire extinguishing process...some leakage, looks like superficial so no real damage.

anyway, any tips to remove the harmonic balancer? do i need a 3 jaw puller?
thanks

 

[kg6mov]

Yup, for the newer mopar balancers you'll need a three jaw style puller. You'll see them referred to as a "Chrysler" harmonic balancer pullers.

 

[jeepjeepster]

The installer tool for 'chryslers' may not work though. Ive rented the wrong one from autozone twice.

 

[Timo_90xj]

My harmonic balancer installer tool is a long enough bolt* and two large heavy duty washers polished shiny; I use plenty of grease between the washers and drive the damper in with the long bolt until it almost bottoms out, then change to the OEM bolt and torque to specification.


* I can't remember the thread pitch nor the length of the bolt, I have to check.

 

[zjosh93]

You might want to take a closer look at the spot I highlighted in the picture below. Hard to tell without cleaning it up more but it looks like there might be pitting in that location. You often get that if water sits in the bore. It'll pit right against the ring. That's a bad place for pitting too, right where the rings sit at TDC. If it is pitted it will compromise ring seal at the place you want it to seal the most. It would probably run okay for a bit but it'll be better to start with a better block or get this one machined for bigger pistons. That's a significant increase in cost though, hopefully it's just some spots of surface rust that'll wipe right off. WD-40 and a green scotch-brite or very fine steel wool work to clean the bores without ruining the crosshatch. Since you are installing new rings, if the ring manufacturer calls for the bores to be honed, you'll know if they are a problem if they are still there after honing.

When it comes to cleaning the pistons, the best thing I've found is paint stripper. You want the old school stuff with chlorinated solvents. The carbon just wipes off with a rag. It really helps to get the ring grooves and oil slots/holes clean. Just be really sure you get it all out of the wrist pin/piston contact surface and oil them well before installing them. It's easier with full floating pins but you work with what you have.

 

[ravenworks]

hi guys,
idea is: 212 intake duration/218 exhaust duration .510 intake lift/.510 exhaust lift 110 lsa.

also, do you think it's better to put in a new timing chain too?
90000 miles on this engine, more or less.

A new timing chain and gears is a must.
Something you need to remember with cams.
Anything with more lift than what you have listed above will have a domino effect.
More duration followed by less vacuum will make it very hard to manage around town and in general.
Comp Cams has been in the game a longtime and know what they are doing.