I've seen some listed for the 999 that should work in your 32rh.

Why do you want a reverse manual valve body?

 

Clutchless manual transmission. Reverse so easy to shift from R to 1. And compression braking would be a big plus for going down inclines

 

Ahh, didn't think about the advantage of being able to shift from 1st to rev quicker.

 

:ignore:



Basically it would help to be able to use the engine to brake while going down steep inclines, and from my understanding the only way to do that is with a manual valve body.

 

Ahh, didn't think about the advantage of being able to shift from 1st to rev quicker.

How would a manual valve body make the shift quicker?

 

How would a manual valve body make the shift quicker?

It puts first gear next to neutral.

So the new shift pattern is D-R-N-1-2-3 instead of D-R-N-3-2-1.

Did you receive that tranny pan okay?

 

It puts first gear next to neutral.

So the new shift pattern is D-R-N-1-2-3 instead of D-R-N-3-2-1.

Did you receive that tranny pan okay?

ooh, I get it now. Yup I got the pan, installed it last Saturday. Thanks again.

 

Is anyone running the 32RH with 456 and 33's? I was just wanting to know because i am thinking about installing one on my daily drive/offroad YJ

 

Is anyone running the 32RH with 456 and 33's? I was just wanting to know because i am thinking about installing one on my daily drive/offroad YJ

I did for a while and I really liked it.

RPM was high at highway speeds (about 3,500 at 70 mph), but the low end power made it all worth it.

 

Clutchless manual transmission. Reverse so easy to shift from R to 1. And compression braking would be a big plus for going down inclines

um...i think the torque converter negates compression braking.
i've never had it work for me while in "1" and 4lo. i don't see why a manual valve would change anything, the engine is already stuck in 1st gear irreguardless of your shift pattern.

 

I did for a while and I really liked it.

RPM was high at highway speeds (about 3,500 at 70 mph), but the low end power made it all worth it.

Im at 4.56 and 32s right now, 3 spd auto as well. Highway is almost unbearable. The plan was to go to 35s when I went to 4.56, but I ran out of money. When you drive on the highway, do you just cruise at 3500 the whole time? That cant be good for the engine can it?

 

Im at 4.56 and 32s right now, 3 spd auto as well. Highway is almost unbearable. The plan was to go to 35s when I went to 4.56, but I ran out of money. When you drive on the highway, do you just cruise at 3500 the whole time? That cant be good for the engine can it?

Yes, when I was running 33s I would run 3,500-3,800 RPM on the highway. I would set the cruise at 75 and leave it.

I'm currently running 35s. I turn about 3,300-3,500 on the highway at 70-75 MPH.

Running this RPM for extended periods does not seem to have much of an effect on the I6.

I have 155k miles on mine now - over 120k miles are with 4.56 gears and many of those miles are on the highway.

 

Yes, when I was running 33s I would run 3,500-3,800 RPM on the highway. I would set the cruise at 75 and leave it.

I'm currently running 35s. I turn about 3,300-3,500 on the highway at 70-75 MPH.

Running this RPM for extended periods does not seem to have much of an effect on the I6.

I have 155k miles on mine now - over 120k miles are with 4.56 gears and many of those miles are on the highway.

hmm, I guess thats something to think about. I had to drive 210 miles back to school within a week on installing the 8.8/4.56. I cruised at 60-65 the whole time. I didn't really care about mpg, just afraid that cruising at 3500 rpms for 3 hrs would hurt the engine, but I guess thats just a myth.

 

Trying to get some more research into this. I keep running into sites saying the 32rh is the same as the TF999 in CJs and some sites saying there are different...

Anyone know differences, are valve bodies interchangable? I just cracked the housing of the trans so looking for a replacement and and want to see if I can get a valve body before I install the replacement

 

The 32RH and TF999 are mechanically identical. The 32rh has the electronic locking torque converter, but the internals of the trans itself are the same.

 

From what I am seeing the 32rh is the same as a TF999 but just has some extra electric gizmos.
And the 904 is the same as the 999 but w/o a lock up torque converter.
Is that correct?

Are the shifters and valve bodies all going to be interchangable?

 

Also looking at an AW4 swap. It looks like I would need a computer to control it, but I found this online: http://awshifting.com/
Anyone know how well something like this would work?

 

I just bought an aw4 to swap in place for my 32rh. I don't know when Ill get around to it, maybe this summer. Let me know how it goes if you do it though.

 

IIRC, the 999 is a hybrid 904/727. meaning it uses the stronger 727 internals in the 904 casing. at least that's what i've read. it's considerably harder finding info about a 999 than the 727 and 904's, so verifying this from multiple sources is difficult. as far as lock-up converter's, i don't know anything except that they all have an electronic one in 97+ TJ's.

 

Here's a link for you. Gives a brief description of torque flite trannys. http://www.jeeptech.com/trans/tf904.html

 

Try this company, I just put in their shift kit. www.Transgo.com

 

The shift kit I installed is a TFOD-JR. You can sign up for a free trial on Transgo's tech line. The trans in my 02 TJ Se 2.5 auto is listed as a 500/518 lockup RH. Not hard to install, it looks intiminating but if you read and study instructions it's only a couple hour install.My underpowered jeep seems to accelerate better even with a head wind. I beleive it's because of the convertor locking up firmer...I drilled 2 x .076 holes I'd drill them .096 if I did It again. john