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Shmistan

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

My front right wheel started squeaking this weekend, it’s slowly turned into a rubbing/scraping noise while driving. Jeep pulls a little to the right, but that was an issue before the squeaking. I have a video of the squeaking and rubbing if interested.

The wheel doesn’t get hot so I’m not so sure it’s a stuck caliper. My brakes have been questionable since the day I got the jeep about 1.5 years ago.

Is there more to worry about here rather than replace the brakes? Do you guys have a recommendation for brake pads? Nothing too crazy, but reliable and good quality.
 
New brake pads, rotors if damaged or at least get them turned, new brake hose, potentially new caliper.

Thoroughly flush and bleed the entire brake system.
 
Maybe someone used some cheap front pads??

Don't keep driving it. Get the wheel off and see what's going on sooner than later. It only gets more expensive if you wait. If you live in a rust-belt state, could be that there is rust built up under the pad ears (under the SS clips) holding the pads tight (not letting them retract). That can happen. I've seen them get so tight I had to hammer the pads out of their mounts. If that's the issue, remove the rotor, remove pad, and use a file to remove any rust on the knuckle/s where the pad ears go. Another issue could be the sliding pins that allow the caliper to slide in/out ...are rusty or 'frozen'. That happens too. Take apart and remove rust/lube up.

When done, assemble and run the caliper piston in/out a few times to make sure it's all good. If it's all rusty and shot up there, best to buy a Premium caliper unit from Advance Auto, or Carquest. Their Premium stuff is really good. New basically with Phenolic OEM-like pistons. Rebuilt products from like OReilly are a lot cheaper but suck IMO. They sand blast the piston bores (not re-machined), and use cheaply chromed pistons (which rust in a couple yrs) and thin rubber boots (which tear in a couple yrs) ....they don't last very long. You pay a lot more for the Premium but you get a long-lasting product (or buy 'new' off Rock Auto).

Maybe consider new 'good' pads if your stopping has always been lousy ...inspect your tk's rotors, hoses and all that. Replace as necessary.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Maybe someone used some cheap front pads??

Don't keep driving it. Get the wheel off and see what's going on sooner than later. It only gets more expensive if you wait. If you live in a rust-belt state, could be that there is rust built up under the pad ears (under the SS clips) holding the pads tight (not letting them retract). That can happen. I've seen them get so tight I had to hammer the pads out of their mounts. If that's the issue, remove the rotor, remove pad, and use a file to remove any rust on the knuckle/s where the pad ears go. Another issue could be the sliding pins that allow the caliper to slide in/out ...are rusty or 'frozen'. That happens too. Take apart and remove rust/lube up.

When done, assemble and run the caliper piston in/out a few times to make sure it's all good. If it's all rusty and shot up there, best to buy a Premium caliper unit from Advance Auto, or Carquest. Their Premium stuff is really good. New basically with Phenolic OEM-like pistons. Rebuilt products from like OReilly are a lot cheaper but suck IMO. They sand blast the piston bores (not re-machined), and use cheaply chromed pistons (which rust in a couple yrs) and thin rubber boots (which tear in a couple yrs) ....they don't last very long. You pay a lot more for the Premium but you get a long-lasting product (or buy 'new' off Rock Auto).

Maybe consider new 'good' pads if your stopping has always been lousy ...inspect your tk's rotors, hoses and all that. Replace as necessary.
I took my wheel off yesterday and took a look at everything. The rotor is a bit rusty, looks like surface rust.

I took my brakes and calipers off and one of the brakes were completely shot, to the point the piston is getting stuck.

I think I can get away with just replacing the brakes, but with Prime day, I was able to snag some PowerStop Extreme Tow rotors and pads for only $300.

Im confident that will solve this issue.
 
Something is definitely going on there if one pad is worn out while the other is pretty good. If they were both evenly worn, that would be normal. When you get the new pads and go to install them, make sure they can freely move when installed. And the caliper slides nicely. If the piston is real hard to turn in, that could be a problem too. Yeah, it's always possible a bad hose if you don't see anything else obvious. Some people/mechanics pinch brake hoses tight with a clamp and IDT that does them any good. I never do that to my vehicles, and never had a hose go bad that wasn't worn from age.

Look things over closely when your new brakes arrive. Or maybe go give another good look so you can order the necessary other parts if needed. You should be able to figure out the problem. Good luck (y)
 
On the JK Wrangler it’s common for the rear calipers to seize and the front hoses to delaminate making you THINK the caliper is stuck but it’s not. Test: if caliper seems stuck try opening the bleeder and then try to compress the piston. If you can easily compress it then; it’s the brake hose holding pressure. Make sure to lube the caliper pins with disc brake lube.
We have had 2 rear calipers seize and 2 front brake hoses go bad.
 
How mechanically inclined are you? (OP). Do you have access to an air compressor? First check the pads for looseness (they should be able to be moved when mounted). And then the caliper sliding pins for smooth movement. If that passes, could be gunk behind your piston. Or a crapped-out piston...or rusty bore.

The caliper might have a stuck piston. Doesn't go out well, doesn't go in well either. Remove the dust boot with a pick and check it out. If it's rusty on the piston sides where you can see chrome and rust, that means a cheapo replacement was probably put in there and it rusted up. Time for a new caliper. But if it's just brown on the sides then you might want to consider popping the piston out and have a look and clean things up. Assuming you have an air compressor. Chrysler usually uses phenolic pistons with is a brown plastic with a SS cap.

What I usually do in a stuck piston situation is remove the caliper & pop the piston out and have a look. Clean things up. Lube. Put back together an yer good for several more years. (assuming it's all clean in there). But if it's a rusty ole OReilly rebuilt caliper and there's rust on the piston (the actual caliper piston) then you might as well go get a new one. They use cheap pistons which rust up quick in the rust belt. Couple yrs. And the dust boots they use are thin and cheap and crack (letting in moisture). I like OReilly Auto...and I think most rebuild calipers are like this from other places too. Oh ...and they sandblast the caliper bores (which effectively ruins the caliper). If you need a new one, and you don't want to dig in further, go buy a brand new Premium caliper from Carquest or Advance Auto. Costs a lot more but it's a superior product like OEM. You'll buy 3 OReilly rebuilt calipers in the span of one Advance Premium caliper...so in the end you saved a lot of work.

If you have the skills and want to dig in ....To remove the caliper piston and have a look or rejuvinate, remove the caliper first. Prepare by having a strip of rubber (inner tube rubber will work) and put a C-clamp or vise grip and a couple washers....and clamp the rubber around the brake hose as soon as you remove it from the caliper ....so it doesn't leak fluid all over the place. Then you can work on the caliper w/o creating more brake work for yourself (more bleeding than necessary). Add some fluid to your reservoir if need be so you Never run it dry.

Remove the rubber caliper piston boot first. Take a very small screwdriver of pick and "Gently" get under the rubber part on the caliper and gently remove and peel the boot edge off it's seat and from the caliper piston. Or remove the whole thing from the caliper if you can. Don't damage it, you need to reuse it. Some have a metal flange on the rubber you need to gently pry up. Once the dust boot is off, Put a large C-clamp on the caliper and piston somewhat loose and some compressed air on the caliper inlet. You might need to put a piece of vacuum hose over your blower tip to make a seal.

Apply the air gently. The piston will move out until it is stopped by the C-clamp. Then loosen the clamp another 1/2" and let it come out some more...repeat. At some point when the piston is out far enough you should be able to remove it with your fingers (not while using compressed air!). Keep your fingers away so they don't get pinched or mangled. You don't want too just pop the piston out b/c they can fly across the room and bust. And NEVER use a pliers b/c chrysler uses phenolic pistons which are like a bakelite plastic and they WILL break. (Rock Auto probably sells replacements).

A caliper can look terribly rusty on the outside but brand new inside if the fluid has been maintained/exchanged. I've seen 20 year old calipers that looked like the day they were made ...on the inside ...again, if the fluid was changed once or twice in the car's life. Once the piston is out, inspect the parts and determine what you have. If all good, clean out any debris and goo... and clean the remove rubber o-ring (remember it's orientation in case there is a micro-curve cut on one side). If it all looks good inside, grease with some brake grease and reassemble. If it doesn't ...time to go buy a different caliper.

If you did all that, reinstall caliper and bleed out per normal. Again, if this seems like something you aren't comfortable, haven't done, or don't have experience with, don't do it. Have the brakes done by a competent brake shop.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Something is definitely going on there if one pad is worn out while the other is pretty good. If they were both evenly worn, that would be normal. When you get the new pads and go to install them, make sure they can freely move when installed. And the caliper slides nicely. If the piston is real hard to turn in, that could be a problem too. Yeah, it's always possible a bad hose if you don't see anything else obvious. Some people/mechanics pinch brake hoses tight with a clamp and IDT that does them any good. I never do that to my vehicles, and never had a hose go bad that wasn't worn from age.

Look things over closely when your new brakes arrive. Or maybe go give another good look so you can order the necessary other parts if needed. You should be able to figure out the problem. Good luck (y)
I ended up replacing all 4 rotors and brakes, the back passenger inside brake was metal to metal with the rotor.

I replaced them and am now having a pull to the right (I've always had a pull it just feels worse) so I am going to go back in and take a look. If they look fine I'll be booking an alignment. The brakes fit perfectly fine in the caliper guide pins and I had no issues getting them in/out once assembled.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
How mechanically inclined are you? (OP). Do you have access to an air compressor? First check the pads for looseness (they should be able to be moved when mounted). And then the caliper sliding pins for smooth movement. If that passes, could be gunk behind your piston. Or a crapped-out piston...or rusty bore.

The caliper might have a stuck piston. Doesn't go out well, doesn't go in well either. Remove the dust boot with a pick and check it out. If it's rusty on the piston sides where you can see chrome and rust, that means a cheapo replacement was probably put in there and it rusted up. Time for a new caliper. But if it's just brown on the sides then you might want to consider popping the piston out and have a look and clean things up. Assuming you have an air compressor. Chrysler usually uses phenolic pistons with is a brown plastic with a SS cap.

What I usually do in a stuck piston situation is remove the caliper & pop the piston out and have a look. Clean things up. Lube. Put back together an yer good for several more years. (assuming it's all clean in there). But if it's a rusty ole OReilly rebuilt caliper and there's rust on the piston (the actual caliper piston) then you might as well go get a new one. They use cheap pistons which rust up quick in the rust belt. Couple yrs. And the dust boots they use are thin and cheap and crack (letting in moisture). I like OReilly Auto...and I think most rebuild calipers are like this from other places too. Oh ...and they sandblast the caliper bores (which effectively ruins the caliper). If you need a new one, and you don't want to dig in further, go buy a brand new Premium caliper from Carquest or Advance Auto. Costs a lot more but it's a superior product like OEM. You'll buy 3 OReilly rebuilt calipers in the span of one Advance Premium caliper...so in the end you saved a lot of work.

If you have the skills and want to dig in ....To remove the caliper piston and have a look or rejuvinate, remove the caliper first. Prepare by having a strip of rubber (inner tube rubber will work) and put a C-clamp or vise grip and a couple washers....and clamp the rubber around the brake hose as soon as you remove it from the caliper ....so it doesn't leak fluid all over the place. Then you can work on the caliper w/o creating more brake work for yourself (more bleeding than necessary). Add some fluid to your reservoir if need be so you Never run it dry.

Remove the rubber caliper piston boot first. Take a very small screwdriver of pick and "Gently" get under the rubber part on the caliper and gently remove and peel the boot edge off it's seat and from the caliper piston. Or remove the whole thing from the caliper if you can. Don't damage it, you need to reuse it. Some have a metal flange on the rubber you need to gently pry up. Once the dust boot is off, Put a large C-clamp on the caliper and piston somewhat loose and some compressed air on the caliper inlet. You might need to put a piece of vacuum hose over your blower tip to make a seal.

Apply the air gently. The piston will move out until it is stopped by the C-clamp. Then loosen the clamp another 1/2" and let it come out some more...repeat. At some point when the piston is out far enough you should be able to remove it with your fingers (not while using compressed air!). Keep your fingers away so they don't get pinched or mangled. You don't want too just pop the piston out b/c they can fly across the room and bust. And NEVER use a pliers b/c chrysler uses phenolic pistons which are like a bakelite plastic and they WILL break. (Rock Auto probably sells replacements).

A caliper can look terribly rusty on the outside but brand new inside if the fluid has been maintained/exchanged. I've seen 20 year old calipers that looked like the day they were made ...on the inside ...again, if the fluid was changed once or twice in the car's life. Once the piston is out, inspect the parts and determine what you have. If all good, clean out any debris and goo... and clean the remove rubber o-ring (remember it's orientation in case there is a micro-curve cut on one side). If it all looks good inside, grease with some brake grease and reassemble. If it doesn't ...time to go buy a different caliper.

If you did all that, reinstall caliper and bleed out per normal. Again, if this seems like something you aren't comfortable, haven't done, or don't have experience with, don't do it. Have the brakes done by a competent brake shop.
To somewhat give a quick run down:

While I am not as mechanically inclined as a lot of you, I am getting there. I've watched my dad work on a ton of Hondas, from rebuilding a transmission to starting one up and throwing a rod. This is my first Jeep and I knowingly picked it up that I would have to learn how to do these things myself fast.

With that being said, I ended up replacing all 4 rotors and brakes. To my surprise, it wasn't the front right brake yelling at me; it was the passenger back one. When I replaced that one, the inside brake (The one the piston presses) was metal to metal. When I did this, I did not realize that I was supposed to put some grease (I have high temp pink stuff from my dad) on the caliper guiding pins, but they had no issue moving without it before re-assembling the caliper.

Now, the calipers and brakes being replaced did fix my original issue, I'm running into another. My Jeep now pulls to the right, and it's gotten worse since replacing everything. I'm hoping it's not a stuck brake pad/piston. I am going to get an alignment and see if that fixes the issue. If not, I'm sure I'll see the forums here soon haha.

Thanks for the nice response.
 
Sounds like you're getting there as far as 'mechanics' go. (y)

After you drive it a while, touch/feel the wheels. Are any getting 'hot'? Or warmer than the others? If not ...carefully touch the rotors if you can get a finger on them ...next to the wheel. Or use an IR temp gun. Are any hotter than they should be? If so, you still have something hanging up. You ought to be able to tell with the wheel off which axle is free and which one has resistance on the rotor (if present). There could be a bad brake hose too. Rare but sometimes they degrade internally and the internal break-away part acts like a one-way valve. Holds the caliper 'on'.

It could also be an alignment issue. Does the tow look ok by eye? You can measure like-tread-blocks from front to back. That's not 100% precise, but gives you an idea. If you have 33"s I usually set mine 1/8" to 3/16" closer in the front of the tire than rear depending on age and how good the suspension/steering parts are. I've been setting the tow on all my own vehicles for many yrs.

You might also check tire air pressure. If that's good, try rotating the tires. Sometimes a broken belt or chord can cause greater rolling friction.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Sounds like you're getting there as far as 'mechanics' go. (y)

After you drive it a while, touch/feel the wheels. Are any getting 'hot'? Or warmer than the others? If not ...carefully touch the rotors if you can get a finger on them ...next to the wheel. Or use an IR temp gun. Are any hotter than they should be? If so, you still have something hanging up. You ought to be able to tell with the wheel off which axle is free and which one has resistance on the rotor (if present). There could be a bad brake hose too. Rare but sometimes they degrade internally and the internal break-away part acts like a one-way valve. Holds the caliper 'on'.

It could also be an alignment issue. Does the tow look ok by eye? You can measure like-tread-blocks from front to back. That's not 100% precise, but gives you an idea. If you have 33"s I usually set mine 1/8" to 3/16" closer in the front of the tire than rear depending on age and how good the suspension/steering parts are. I've been setting the tow on all my own vehicles for many yrs.

You might also check tire air pressure. If that's good, try rotating the tires. Sometimes a broken belt or chord can cause greater rolling friction.
The wheels/rotors aren’t abnormally hot, nor do I smell anything coming from the brakes.

My tires are almost bald, I’m definitely due for new ones. I’m almost fairly certain it’s an alignment issue, I just wanted other peoples advice especially since everyone here is pretty knowledgable. I’m running stock everything so I’m not sure if the checking by eye thing would help.
 
Bad front brake hoses are common on JKs and they will cause a dragging caliper
I’ve replaced both on our ‘17 JK….
 
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