Here is a side pic of the car - the front looks too low to me...

 

Which engine do you have? There are dozens of different spring rates, did you install OEM spring?

Check your motor mounts, a bad mount(s) can cause clunks like you describe. Also looseness in the cradle to frame bolts. I think there is a tread indexed in the maintenance/repair sticky thread.

 

There are a number of photos posted in the picture sticky thread, if you need a reference. It looks like the front is riding low.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/wk2-picture-thread.1081793/

Your front suspension should look like this diagram. #21 (68029646AB) and 17 are isolators and the suspension will droop without them. #22 is the shock mount 68029520AC.

Could also be the source of a clunk, but I'd suspect motor mounts first..

 

Sweet thanks Coldcase, it's the 3.6 Limited (gasoline).

Point noted with the motor mounts but the timing is obviously suspect to us just after 2 months with the new conversion so i'm assuming suspension problem with the coilovers.

And goodness knows where the foam is from...

Edit: I have zero clue what springs were installed.

 

My friend translated for me here and the garage who done the work is going to fix the problem.

The foam parts I found are a disintegrated bump stop.

Crazy this happened after only about 700km of driving from having these front coilovers fitted.

So all good, problem found and soon to be rectified hopefully.

 

The bump stop explains the noise but first of all the front is way too low; and if the springs are wrong for the Jeep they will cause the bump stop to be destroyed. I think you still have the wrong front springs & I expect you’ll have a recurrence of the destroyed bump stop. The rear does look too high is it possible the mechanic put the front springs on the rear & vice versa?

 

Lou

You have proved to be correct - I got the car back from the mechanic he did raise the front for me (it is a suspension fabrication shop they have a full on engineering workshop there) and the car is driving nice but I had to jack up the car to inpsect the underside to identify a leak( I have the dreaded oil filter housing leaking) I saw bits of a destroyed bumpstop again lol and again very little driving has been done probably not even 150km 100miles etc🤦‍♂️

I don't have the time to keep going back to this suspension shop so I may just have to buy new front suspension from jeep here.

I didn't know you could simply swap a regular suspension in a older WK2 to replace the air suspension until after I had paid my money to these guys - which is what I would have done if I had known about it.

See here about using regular jeep parts to replace air suspension

The car is undrivable until I get the old oil filter housing replaced which is quite a job for me but doable - Anyone know if I should use a thin application of silicone grease on the o rings on the new thermostat and new oil filter housing??? Using silicone grease on o-rings is new to me so any feedback is super cool(I want the job done 100% right lol)

 

There are many vids on you tube about how to replace the housing & I don’t recall anyone using a sealer on the orings. Just make sure to follow torque specs carefully. Check out MotorCity Mechanic you tube or South Main Auto he has done a few of these..

 

There are also a few threads indexed in the maintenance/repair sticky thread, at least one on replacing the coils with either OEM or aftermarket (like OME).

The FCM says the O rings should be installed dry.

Maintenance and Repair Thread Index

Hello all. This can be an extremely helpful thread for for all the DIY JEEPERS. When you do a repair or perform challenging maintenance - PLEASE share your how to, tip, instructions, and an idea of how easy or hard the job was. Pictures are always a great help. There are two official ways to...

www.jeepforum.com

 

Thanks for all the replies guys

While waiting for a new o-ring set for the oil filter housing I'm trying to get as much done as possible I have:

1) New PCV valve coming (old one let lots of air in backwards so valve had failed).
2) New Thermostat coming (once oil filter housing is back on I will flush the system then add only water and do a clean then go with new Green HOAT coolant - this will help with identifying any source of future coolant leaks).
3) Cleaned the throttle body.
4) Cleaned the MAF sensor.
5) Attempt to clean both intakes as best as I can.
5) Attempt to clean the valves out.

The thing I'm having a problem seeing is the EGR valve/cooler to clean - does the 3.6 gasoline even have one??
Same goes for MAP sensor??

 

Only The V6 Diesel of 2011 vintage has an EGR valve.

 

ColdCase do you know where the heater control valve is as I cannot see it - is is behind the firewall or does it not have one??

Reason I'm asking is I want to flush it with clean water with battery disconnected and want to make sure it's possible otherwise I'll have to have heater blowing.

 

No heater control valve, its straight through.

 

Cool that's good to know that I don't need the blower on when cleaning/flushing/replacing coolant then

 

And do you know if it had the NAG1/W5A580 transmission as i'm gonna drop the pan for the filter/fluid change and wanted the correct dipstick chart for top up levels? - it was the 3.6 Limited with air suspension 2011.

 

You have told me before it definitely has QT-II drivetrain

 

And has the MP3023 transfer case if that helps

 

V6 gas and diesel had the NAG transmission 2011-2013 model years. The V8 had a corporate transmission. Those are sensitive to oil level, you use a calibrated dip stick and a temperature correction chart.

 

For anyones information I ONLY replaced the o-rings/seals in my oil filter housing (5184294AE) not the whole unit as I could not justify replacing the whole unit if I could not identify any cracks with it - tbh it looked good.

Per Coldcases advice all o-rings went in dry().

This included replacing the o-rings/seals between the oil cooler and oil filter housing and tightened the 2 torx screws were torqued to 4 N.m.

Then the 4(or 5?) bolts fastening oil filter housing were torqued to 12 N.m.

Upper and lower intake manifold fasteners were all torqued to 8 N.m in the correct sequence (Because I'm such an uptight bastard I torque up in stages as well lol).

I went for a bright green HOAT coolant as it helps with identifying leaks.

Now after inspecting the car after the first small drive or 2 I noticed some green coolant down by the engine oil filter(very small amount) - oh great I thought - but the coolant system is holding pressure - so my repair/install must have initially leaked but now I'm assuming the o-rings/seals have expanded with a few more heat cycles thus hopefully having a functioning pressurized coolant system.

The suspension is also feeling very good even though the bump stop was demolished the second time.