The two hoses from the DPF pressure sensor should be connected together. I don't know if that's mandatory, but mine wants it that way.

Also check your alternator voltage. Low output can causes throttle issues and underboost.

 

Yes, I reconnected them to the pressure sensor, it was just another suggestion that fixed the same issue. Once I disconnected them and still had ETC and limp mode occur, I reconnected them.

Hmm interesting, I did replace the alternator with a new one but maybe there was an issue with the installation or the alternator itself. I will have to check the output, thanks for the recommendation Gray203m !

 

If you go to the recent thread about a CRD losing power towing at maximum weight, he found that it was the exhaust back pressure sensor that had failed and was causing his issues. I'm not sure how he determined that, but it solved his problem and may be worth looking into

 

I have ordered a new exhaust back pressure sensor. When I took it to get the EGR and swirl flaps deleted and tuned, the guy also mentioned this so thank you for that. Willing to try anything at this point besides spending thousands ha.

 

Recently purchased my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Diesel with only 150,000km on it. Everything seemed fine until I got the dreaded lightening bolt warning indicating an issues with the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC). So far that was the only issue was the ETC warning light would come on and then the Jeep would go into limp mode. To continue driving it for the last six months I have been doing a throttle reset when I need more power. However if I stomp on it and accelerate too fast the ETC warning light will come on and this is not a long term solution. So in the meantime, I have been troubleshooting and trying to find the root of the issue but I have not been successful. The engine light has come on a few times, but the only time I was able to read it with a code reader the only code present was P0299 - Turbo Under Boost. Read many forums and talked to many diesel mechanics, none of which are experienced with the CRD engine and most do not feel comfortable working on it being a Mercedes.

So far I have:

1. Sent the actuator away for repair (Here is where I sent it for repair as I reside in Canada https://www.turboactuatorrepair.com/ and here Swirlmotor.pdf)
2. Stage 2 eco with DPF delete & NOx sensor delete (Completed an automotive tuning establishment that specializes in high end vehicle tunes.)
3. Swirl flap motor bypass (I did this myself after reading that this fixed other's ETC and limp mode issues, here is the link
4. Disconnected both tubes that go to the removed DPF and drove around (ETC and limp mode still occurred )
5. Changed out the fuel filter, air filter, new glow plugs and oil change
6. New battery & new alternator
7. Elephant hose mod ( Did this due to a lot of blow by entering the intake, another common issue with this model )
8. I will be getting the EGR deleted and the swirl flaps deleted on Wednesday

IS THERE SOMETHING I AM MISSING!? I am invested in the Jeep and do not want to get rid of it, however I cannot drive it as it is for the rest of its life. Someone please help

The variable vanes in the turbo can gunk up with soot and seize up which will cause boost fault codes . There are videos on YouTube showing cleaning .

 

Recently purchased my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Diesel with only 150,000km on it. Everything seemed fine until I got the dreaded lightening bolt warning indicating an issues with the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC). So far that was the only issue was the ETC warning light would come on and then the Jeep would go into limp mode. To continue driving it for the last six months I have been doing a throttle reset when I need more power. However if I stomp on it and accelerate too fast the ETC warning light will come on and this is not a long term solution. So in the meantime, I have been troubleshooting and trying to find the root of the issue but I have not been successful. The engine light has come on a few times, but the only time I was able to read it with a code reader the only code present was P0299 - Turbo Under Boost. Read many forums and talked to many diesel mechanics, none of which are experienced with the CRD engine and most do not feel comfortable working on it being a Mercedes.

So far I have:

1. Sent the actuator away for repair (Here is where I sent it for repair as I reside in Canada https://www.turboactuatorrepair.com/ and here Swirlmotor.pdf)
2. Stage 2 eco with DPF delete & NOx sensor delete (Completed an automotive tuning establishment that specializes in high end vehicle tunes.)
3. I will be getting the EGR deleted and the swirl flaps deleted on Wednesday

IS THERE SOMETHING I AM MISSING!? I am invested in the Jeep and do not want to get rid of it, however I cannot drive it as it is for the rest of its life. Someone please help

Check with your tuner/tuner company, because the EGR, swirl motor and even the O2/lambda sensor can also be disabled via tune, in which case you shouldn't need to bypass the swirl motor as it's not checked or used at all(.
In my CRD what the previous owner did was to disconnect the linkage and leave the siwrl motors, so they move "in the air"

 

UPDATE: Got the EGR and the Swirl Flaps deleted and the Jeep tuned again while it was in the shop. Have been driving it as my daily for the past three weeks. No more limp mode. No more ETC indicator lights. Howeverrrrrrr, it is still lagging, it becomes a little better if I do a pedal reset before driving but the acceleration is still not as it should be. I will attach a photo with a few graphs to show what is happening. There is a lack of power and trouble accelerating

While it was in the shop, the guy said everything appeared to be operating correctly. Turbo actuator, turbo, intake, seemed normal. But for some reason the turbo is not boosting when it should, the peak of the boost should occur sooner and longer. He told me that there is no way to figure out why with out numerous hours of labor to try to pinpoint the cause of the issue. He did mention that he had one other client with the same model who replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and that solved all of their issues and as previously mentioned by Grey203m. So I have ordered a new sensor, I will install when it arrives and provide another update.

 

Did you ever replace the exhaust back pressure sensor and did it solve your issue? I've got a 08 GC CRD that I change the ETC and no it's bucking and puffing smoke out the tail pipe so trying to figure out if that sensor worked for you or not????

 

Under boost , check the intercooler pipes for splits and the intercooler itself. Check the resonator and the pipework from turbo to it. The system is just not seeing the boost it should at certain rpm. Smoke machine would find a leak , so would a good fat cigar in the turbo crankcase breather connection.
Check underneath the throttle body as there is a sensor that can come loose and leak pressure. Basically between the turbo and throttle body to inlet manifold you are loosing pressure somewhere .. Its not a big leak as it only trips a code when you step hard on throttle so will be hard to find

 

Under boost , check the intercooler pipes for splits and the intercooler itself. Check the resonator and the pipework from turbo to it. The system is just not seeing the boost it should at certain rpm. Smoke machine would find a leak , so would a good fat cigar in the turbo crankcase breather connection.
Check underneath the throttle body as there is a sensor that can come loose and leak pressure. Basically between the turbo and throttle body to inlet manifold you are loosing pressure somewhere .. Its not a big leak as it only trips a code when you step hard on throttle so will be hard to find

Thanks Dougdarri for the info! I will try to look into any possible leaks and will look underneath the throttle body for that sensor. I am definitely losing pressure somewhere just can't find where ha. It wasn't like this before, so something happened for sure. I have done so much to it and then it has been in and out of a few different shops trying to troubleshoot so I don't know what went wrong or where now that the ETC and Limp Mode are gone. Have to buy a smoke machine or a cigar like you said and maybe some soapy water for the other piping.

 

The cold side charge pipe (intercooler to throttle body) is a likely culprit for splitting. This is what mine looked like, and i know another user on here recently found nearly identical damage to his

 

i know another user on here recently found nearly identical damage to his

Once I fixed the boost leaks I made, I found this.

This is the intercooler to engine hose. Also, everything around it had been sprayed down with oil.

 

I cannibalized the metal end and used some off-the-shelf intercooler pipe/elbows to adapt it to fit a larger aftermarket intercooler.

The metal end is application specific, so you need to go OEM, cannibalize it, or replace the engine side of that connector and go all aftermarket

 

I cannibalized the metal end and used some off-the-shelf intercooler pipe/elbows to adapt it to fit a larger aftermarket intercooler.

The metal end is application specific, so you need to go OEM, cannibalize it, or replace the engine side of that connector and go all aftermarket

Sorry, posted twice cus I'm an idiot, and don't know how to delete one of them

 

Oh jeez... I don't think I am mechanically inclined enough for that lol. Might be a project for someone else. Thank you for the info and help again!!

 

The metal end of the OE hose is something that's more common in German cars. Porsches use something that looks exactly the same, but is probably a different size, for example.