The first thing to look for is one or more broken wires in the drivers door boot. It’s that black accordion looking thing between the door and the frame.
if you don’t find a broken or worn wire there. Look at the drivers door, same location.

 

thanks

 

Most likely at least the Driver Door Boot Wiring... ...It is an issue on WJ's that one of it's owners will have to deal with at some point... ...Yes, as far as I can tell it is not 'if', it's a matter of when and which one will 'fail' first [?] and almost always starts with the Driver Door first, but eventually it won't be just Driver Door.

There are several, no; I should say 'many' ways to repair WJ door-boot wiring ranging from 'sure-to-fail soon' to excellent 'better than OEM DIY. Also, there are Aftermarket repair Connectors with and without wires....I highly reccomend AGAINST the 'cheap/lowest-cost ones...
...Choosing what connector parts and wires wisely and taking your time doing the repair is going to be the best way to go about it, IMO.

There is a thread on the subject titled "1999-2004 WJ Driver Door Boot Wiring Fix (DIY)" that is informative, but there are more threads on this in this website; you will likely want to look at other DIY repair options before you make the final decision on what you are going to do to fix it.

I had the Driver Door Boot Wiring issue a little over a year ago and was somewhat in a hurry and now I will be doing it much more carefully this next time fairly soon...
...I will be trying the "Door Wiring Connector" from Rock Auto, but I can't recommend for or against using it because I haven't even ordered it yet.

My reasons for trying this particular one from Rock Auto, ('STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S1960 Black'), for my 03' WJ are:
1- Lowest price even after shipping...
...2- in the YouTube Video, (Linked on bottom of this post), the guy shows that there are more than enough # 12 AWG wires and enough # 14 wires to wire it the way I will choose; so I will be more-less sure the current carrying capacity of replacement wires, (supplied with the connector), will be same or higher than the OEM ones.

The one drawback of this particular part is lack of color-coding of the wires, but I am OK with that because I have reasonably enough experience with using same color wires for wiring connector-plugs, whereas that is not at all unfamiliar territory for me, but for others, that may be a no-go, and for good reason...

...Be aware that most if not all the 'cheap' so-called "pre-wired replacement" connectors either have the high-current wires in the wrong location for the application you are repairing and the wires in those connectors may not be easily interchangeable to other locations in the connector; not to mention not at all likely to be the same color-coding as your WJ.

...Anyway, that being said, I have more times than not gotten 'replacement' pre-wired plugs for relays that came with the relays that had # 14 or # 16 wires where a # 12 # 10, or # 8 wire should be... ...I did not use the 'included' plug if I could not 'swap' the correct wires into it. Mostly, I wired my relays directly with correct size wires for the 'fused' circuit with the correct 'insulated' connectors that go to the relay directly and hand drawn my wiring diagram for it...

...I am just saying be careful what parts you get to do the repair and the way you do the repair if you DIY. BTW, FWIW, IMHO, if you do the repair with good quality wires and do the repair well, it will in all likelihood, (depending on the condition of the Boot), be able to last longer that the OEM one did.

YouTube Video titled "1999-2004 WJ Driver Door Boot Wiring Fix (DIY)"

 

thanks

 

Wj2hotsprings is dead on.
only additional piece of advice I have…take the door off. Makes it way easier for a fat guy to get in close enough to do the repair well.

 

thanks

 

BTW, FWIW, as a side-note, there are 2 small wires that are a 'twisted-pair' and that is to both to improve PCI communication and prevent RFI, ('Radio Frequency Interference'), from causing any unwanted issues with the BCM and/or the PCM; that could cause any 'undesirable' non-commanded functions or malfunctions; so it is important to make same 'twisted-pair' wires when rewiring the connector/harness... ...Sorry I don't remember which pins those wires go to, but I think they are # 20 wires in the wiring diagram...

...Anyway, It is clearly obvious which ones they are on the original OEM wiring Harness/Plug on Body side.

Take notes and make hand-written connector pin-out and wiring diagrams of the OEM wires, (including the 'twisted-pair), wire gauge and 'color-code' and take photos and hard-copy Print it and also email it to yourself and keep it in the Cloud or at least in your email server's 'cloud' so you have access to copies even if your phone, camera or computer, wherever you have it stored gets lost, stolen or takes a dump or somehow deletes it.

 

ADDENDUM - Loss of electric driver/passenger mirror control and overhead console information missing (no outside temp or MPG, just dashes)and high beam indicator is now NFG!

 

Re:

There is a 'self check that you can initiate for the 'overhead console' (Also referred to as "Electronic Vehicle Information Center" and also "EVIC")...

Below is what the service manual shows the test is for it:

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC TEST A self-diagnostic test is used to determine that the EVIC module is operating properly, and that all PCI data bus messages are being received for initial operation. Initiate the self-diagnostic test as follows: (1) With the ignition switch in the Off position, simultaneously depress and hold the C/T button and the Reset button. (2) Turn the ignition switch to the On position. (3) Continue to hold both buttons depressed until the EVIC software version information is displayed, then release both buttons. (4) Following completion of these tests, the EVIC module will display one of the following messages: † Pass Self Test - Momentarily depress and release the Reset button to return to the compass/ thermometer/trip computer display mode. The EVIC module is working properly. † Failed Self Test - The EVIC module has an internal failure. The EVIC module is faulty and must be replaced. † Failed J1850 Communication - The EVIC module is not receiving proper message input through the PCI data bus. This can result from one or more faulty electronic modules in the vehicle, or from a faulty PCI data bus. The use of a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures manual are required for further diagnosis.​

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Re: what the service manual says to do in the case of when the EVIC display say "Failed J1850 Communication";
Obviously a DRB diagnostic tool is not going to be an option and it may not help all that much anyway.

I think that it is very likely that a broken wire somewhere in one or more of the door boots and/or related wiring in one or more of the doors and could be one or more of the door modules, but less likely door module [that] could cause the "EVIC" issue you have described because one or more of another of those would and/or could change what the 'EVIC' is 'seeing' on the PCI data bus and show up as the aforementioned "Failed J1850 Communication " on the EVIC display....

...IMHO, I don't think it is all that likely an issue with your WJ's BCM, but I could be wrong about that... ...IOW, at this point, I would not recommend loading the parts cannon with a BCM just yet.

 

If you are certain door harnesses are good to go, remembering the conductors very often break inside the insulation and appearing fine at a glance, my next target would be the BCM.

 

AMAZING ADDENDUM UPDATE!

I left a switch on and the battery drained requiring a jump from another vehicle. AFTER the jump start, the over head console data returned - temp and fuel mpg, destination mileage, and trip data returned !!
However still no power to the drivers door to operate windows or locks and still no high beam indicator nor mirror adjust from driver door console.

 

Re:

However still no power to the drivers door to operate windows or locks and still no high beam indicator nor mirror adjust from driver door console.

The driver door boot wiring is most likely the issue at the door, but there are still other possibilities within the door itself either loose or disconnected connectors or maybe the driver door module.


No High-Beam indicator is a separate issue.

 

I've copy/pasted this easily 3 dozen times in the last year, and with good reason.....

Broken wires in the door boot is legit the single most common problem with WJs. Just about everyone in here has dealt with them. Mirrors, windows, locks, dome lights, speakers, and remote entry. They can also unleash a slew of mysterious gremlins and parasitic drains seemingly unrelated due to floating grounds and 12v supplies. It happens in all 4 doors, although the driver's door is the most common as it is used the most. I've replaced all 4. Note they often break inside the insulation, so upon initial inspection they appear fine.....

 

As compared to not finding all wire breaks (or wires that are ready to break) i was going to buy the Drivers door wire harness . . .

 

Re:

As compared to not finding all wire breaks (or wires that are ready to break) i was going to buy the Drivers door wire harness . . .

IMHO, you are gambling on if the already used harness is either already compromised or soon to fail after you install it. It won't lase long, that is for sure IMO.

For me, if it were mine, that would 'almost' never be an option I would consider seriously and is for sure not what I would choose to do in any 'normal' circumstance; Maybe if I were 'stranded' away from home because of it and was able to get one that would function good enough to get me home I might decide go that route, but otherwise it's not really a 'viable' option.

 

SUCESS - - - Took the time out today to solve a few electrical problems.

I found THREE "3" separated/broke wires going into my drivers door. 12ga black, 12ga org/wht and 18 ga red/wht harness wires!

YAY no more plastic over the open part of my doors when a rainstorm is imminent!

Upon inspecting both fuse blocks, I corrected two problems, 1) no brake lights and 2) cig lighter has been NFG for quite a while . . . NOT ANYMORE ! Not that I smoke and needed a lighter, but I do stop from time to time and letting the driver behind see brake lights is a good idea!

 

YAY no more plastic over the open part of my doors when a rainstorm is imminent!

I didn't have most of the boot either. My hope, and it seemed to work, is that the harness slid its slack into the door rather than fold in half in the jam. Just be sure and use high quality electrical tape like 3M Super 33+. Pull it tight as you wrap to ensure a good seal, then do not pull, rather lay on the last couple inches to prevent it from pulling back on itself and unravelling in time. I did, however keep the end of the boots in place. Ran it that way for 3ish years, never had a water intrusion problem. When I do get around to getting another (my 6th) WJ, I wouldn't hesitate to do it the same way.....

 

BTW, FWIW, I did get the one from Rock Auto that I mentioned and I am installing it in my 03' WJ today.

It will be somewhat of a relief to know that at least the driver door wiring in the boot will be new and the boot and the white 'connector retainer' on the door side are intact.

 

A followup on what I said:

It will be somewhat of a relief to know that at least the driver door wiring in the boot will be new and the boot and the white 'connector retainer' on the door side are intact.

It took me a long time to finish, more than I thought it would, but I had to get it right the first time and I did.

Even though the connector is a 14 pin connector, my 03' Laredo WJ is referred to as "(LHD BASE)" in the wiring pin-out diagrams in the 03' SM, (and also other years I'm sure), [my' 03 WJ only uses 9 wires even though there were two unused #20 AWG wires that were wired through the boot into the C 302 connector...
... Furthermore, the OEM 'C302 Door Side' connector in the door only has the 9 male pins that are 'necessary'.

Of course, I only used the 9 'necessary' wires that go through the boot and because of that there are fewer wires going through the boot than OEM, there is less stress on the wires and the boot... ...Also, the new wires in the 'kit' have more strands and are a little more flexible than 8 of the 9 the OEM wires; (the OEM #12 RD/WT + wire the only one that has the 'fine-strands'.

On My 03' Laredo "(LHD BASE)", Pins 1, 2, 11, 12, 13, and 14 are not used
and actually don't exist at all in the Male-Pin connector on the door side.​

C 302 Connector Door Side ​	C 302 Connector Body (Boot) Side ​
C 302Pin-Out Door Side ​	C 302 Pin-Out Body (Boot) Side ​

After disconnecting the battery, removing all the trim the pieces, including the parking brake lever...

...Note: Don't try to removing the cable from the parking brake lever; only the 3 retraining bolts and the wire pushpin is all that's necessary to remove; then it can easily be moved out of the way with the cable attached; otherwise, it's kind of easy to break it right where one of the ends that retains the cable are because it's plastic and somewhat brittle after 20+ years... ...Ask me how I know LOL!

The green wires in the kit are all #12 AWG and the blue wires are all #16 AWG...
...There are more than enough of wires in the kit... ...Now I have 7 blue, and 12 green wires left for spares; (I trashed one of one of the blue wires because of a mistake I made, otherwise there would have been 8 blue wires left over);...
... Anyway, now I have enough wires with the 'female' pins that are same as the OEM ones. Now I can repair one more door-boot wiring without having to buy another kit, special connectors or wire...

...That being said, I may have to use some of the green #12 wires where there are smaller gauge wires if there are not enough blue ones to connect to the smaller wires in the WJ's wire harness, but at least I can replace the wires that go through the door boot with new OEM 'matching' pin connectors from the kit now that I know how to remove the old wires without breaking the connector.

Anyway, FWIW, when wiring and/or rewiring a connector using the 'leftover' wires from the kit: note that all of the blue wires are #16 AWG and only going to be good to use for the #16, #18, & #20 AWG wires in the connector; the green #12 AWG can be used for all the others.

This is a photo of the new connector from the 'kit' in 3 separate parts it comes with
and also the boot retainer that goes into the door.

The Connector and the female pins on the wires from the 'kit' are
mechanically identical to the OEM one so I give it
​

 

BTW, by the way, FWIW, I did not use the crimp connectors that come with the kit and IMHO, unless I were in a situation where I would have to get it repaired ASAP like on a road trip or whatever and that's what would work at the time, I wouldn't, (and didn't use), the ones that are in the kit... ...I could and probably would just twist and tape and later re do with solder and shrink tubing
... For one thing, the crimp connectors are much too big for the #20, and #18 AWG wires. Furthermore, those crimp connectors come from who knows where . [?]; also, if the 'blue' color on them is correct, it would be for either #16 and also #14 AWG size wires... ...Whereas, the quality IMHO is questionable; might be excellent might be dangerously bad, I just don't know...
...Anyway, I soldered and double shrink-tubed all of the connections on the cab side inside the cab.