My 1st year owning the 5.9 I went to hunt one day and specifically to the country store for some beers with my buddy. He knew how much money I had in the Jeep at that point. We pulled up to the store and got out to go get some brews. As we returned to the Jeep a fellow approached us saying "I know what that is". I looked at my bud and said see that Jacket he has on? That is special you can't just go buy that somewhere. It was a super expensive looking Mopar Union Racing Leather Jacket. It really caught my interest. He started rattling off everything I knew about my Jeep and THEN SOME. He was full on legit and had built these Jeeps on the line. He said straight to my FACE I will give you 12 THOUSAND dollars right now for that Jeep. My bud was going crazy, SELL IT SELL IT he kept saying. Triple your money. I told him GOD meant for me to have this Jeep and I WILL NEVER SELL HER. He respected that and we talked a bit and left. Of course I had to hear for weeks WHY DID YOU NOT SELL IT....LMAO

 

One of the first mods I did was the Ford Taurus E-FAN Motor. I did that and only last year got the motor warrantied AGAIN as it is Lifetime from autozone. Even with the new high performancce motor build it cools just fine now. I do not remember all the details or have pictures as those were part of the former forum I was on. I would like to add that part number here to help others. The mod / repair is very straight forward.

 

Suspension: I have the OME Heavy Duty Springs for a 2 inch lift and OME Shocks. The control arms are the TeraFlex Monster Arms with Rubber bushing on one end and Spherical flex Joint on the other. All 8 arms are fully adjustable and very beefy. I also have 1.75 inch of poly spacers added and use the original style rubber isolater. After several times playing around and replacing some components the key thing I found was stacking the part correctly. The poly spacers should go on first and contact the coil pocket on the Jeep, then the rubber isolator. If you reverse it I found the poly would swell out and get destroyed. So my overall lift is about 3 inches. I made spacers out out of 1 inch square steel tube and some old poly control arm inner sleeves to allow for the proper placement of the shocks that are not the right length for this lift amount. I have the JKS quick connect sway bar setup and poly sway bar bushings. For the Steering stabilization I fabricated my own frame to frame sector support. I bought the special Pittman arm nut that has a cylindrical section and the proper bearing. This mod really makes a HUGE difference in steering response and sector life. I made it all with leftover steel from other projects and just could not make myself buy something I could make. I do also have an external large cooler for my power steering. My Steering linkage is the Currie Currect Lync and is VERY heavy duty. It looks like something that goes under a 1 ton truck not a Jeep. I currently have a single Rancho Steering stabilizer but the plan is to fab up or buy a mount to have dual steering stabilizers. On that note I see all kinds of folks say Death Wobble is not the faul of a failed Steering Stabilizer. I say that is bull**** and it can make all the difference in the world. I had terrible death wobble at one point and put on the new stabilizer and it disappeared. Yes other items can and will cause it. Several items can cause death wobble and you sometimes have to be a detective to find what is happening with your rig.

 

BRAKES: I did the Ford Explorer brake mod many years ago and posted all that previously. I made my own setup using the similar parts as folks like Vanco. This is not a mod for the inexperienced and could Kill you or someone else if done wrong. If you do not have access to a machine shop and high skill levels you should just buy a complete kit from Vanco or someone that sells them. I modified an original knuckle set and made my similar but slightly different. I still used the 2 piston Ford Calipers. It has lasted all these years and held up very well. But again was very tedious to do and matching the components up so when bolted together there is no torsional force upon the knuckles (cast iron that can crack) is very critical. I added stainless braided brake line in all positions. I honestly would like even more braking power and am currently exploring the idea of going bigger up fron and dual piston setup in the rear. The rear axle is a whole nother animal and I am also looking into fabricating pieces that would use the Current axles but do away with the c clips. A proper ready to buy c clip eliminator kit does not exist for the Dana 44A (HD) but that does not mean it can't be done. I could even reuse the current front calipers for the rear. I really would like to get a bigger master cylinder stuffed in there but do not see how at this time.

 

TRANSMISSION: I have the 46RE it is now completely built with goodies only leaving out the 300m shaft stuff. I have 2200RPM Stall. I have the full compliment of Alto red eagle and Kolene steel in all positions with as many extra clutches as I could get, including a modified drum that holds more. Every bearing and race replaced. I have the full compliment of Sonnax Billet servos and the Sonnax Gov Bore Kit. I have all 6 gear planetary gears in all 3 positions, front & OD are steel & reverse is aluminum housings. I used the Fairbanks Shift Kit set for street/ race and used the accumulator plug that came with it instead of a spring. Other parts include the Mega Overdrive Spring, all new solenoids, the front and rear bands are high performance units also.I originally used a 48 RE pump setup but have returned to the stock style pump gear set.I have been through this transmission 4 times now improving it each time and trying to so lve why it kept breaking converter hubs. I even made my own gauge tool for the Overdrive measurements out of one of my old rear driveshafts and a lot of elbow grease with a belt sander and father time. It shifts much better with the stock style pump gears and I now believe the high volume pump was moving so much volume as to cause problems with emptying the stock pan which is still a 48RE height pan. it is critical when building these to get the clearances that must be setup correct. My final end play at the stator was .018 yea it's Tight

 

ENGINE: Oh Boy
This 5.9 is bored 30 over with torque plates. The Keith Black hypereutetic pistons are fitted with File to Fit Moly rings. final compression is 10.67:1. The rods were rebuilt and are fitted with ARP rod bolts. The main caps are ARP the crank was fully balanced with the exact flywheel and balancer on the Jeep. The block was fully blueprinted by Acey in Jackson Mississsippi. no detail was left out even the distributor bushing in the block was replaced and "burnished" a step often neglected. The head are mildly ported Engine Quest Cast Iron with Manley Valves, The head s are also port matched to the intake and exhaust manifolds. The exhaust manifolds were hand ported and the exit opened to a true 2.5 inch. The meat is there to do it if you take your time and measure it. I have a Comp Cams Roller camshaft, Comp Cams Roller Rockers with ARP studs. The pushrods are also CompCams. I hand ported the intake and spent crazy amounts of time doing it. The goal was to "Flare" the intake runner and leave it stock size at the head. So I onoy cleaned up the head end and vastly flared the intake (inside plenum) side of the runners. this was to compress the path as it moves towards the head. I ported and massaged the Throttle Body. I have plans to make this better with a full on Butterfly Plate in the future. The oil pump is a modified high volume with a little tweaking on the pressure spring. The complete inside of the block was deflanged and cleand with porting tools before it even went to the machine shop. The heads were done the same except i painted the inside of the heads at the rocker areas with a special paint that makes hot oil slip off like butter on a hot knife. The original valve covers are used but the baffles had to be removed to allow room for the roller rocker setup. When I build a motor I like to heat cylce my paint and "bake" it on with several heat and cooling cycles. The heads also have the proper ComCams springs to work with the Cam lift I have. I have late model fuel injectors with 6 holes and much higher flow rate. When i first started data logging and working with Sean at HemiFever I broke every damn bushing in my control arms and one of my front control arm mounts had to be welded back and repaired. This Jeep has some Torque now. It will just break stuff. It still can be better and I HATE THIS JTEC ECU. One day GOD willing I can afford the Holley ECU and then well then it can really be what it wants to be. i do have plans to improve the air flow to the TB. But for now I have my own low budget cold air intake that works better than you might think. I cut the front out of my box which has a K&N filter. I isolated the air flow from the engine bay and surrounded the filter box in key areas with AC plenum material wrapped in many layers of aluminum foil. Laugh if you want but it works really well.
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