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NJHCx4xLIFE

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I need to replace my rear main seal and oil pan gasket and I'm fairly confident in my abilities but this isn't something I've ever done or an really comfortable doing.

I got a quote from the dealership I purchased the jeep from saying 700 for the rear main and another 400 for the oil pan but "we might be able to cut you a deal on the oil pan because it might need to be removed to replace the other seal". That is a load of crap since they need to pull the pan anyway.

I got another quote from a very honest dealership near me where I purchased my last jeep and they quoted $410 out the door for both seals. Seems like a pretty good deal and I actually trust these guys. Is this a decent price or should I shop around more?
 
I got a quote from the dealership I purchased the jeep from saying 700 for the rear main and another 400 for the oil pan but "we might be able to cut you a deal on the oil pan because it might need to be removed to replace the other seal". That is a load of crap since they need to pull the pan anyway.
Removing/reinstalling the oil pan is 95% of the job. Replacing the $15 rear main seal doesn't take an additional 20 minutes for someone who knows what they are doing.

Charging for the oil pan separately is an absolute crock. It is an essential part of the RMS job.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Removing/reinstalling the oil pan is 95% of the job. Replacing the $15 rear main seal doesn't take an additional 20 minutes for someone who knows what they are doing.

Charging for the oil pan separately is an absolute crock. It is an essential part of the RMS job.
Thats what I thought. Does $410 for both sound reasonable?
 
Sorry, I can't answer your question about a reasonable price for the job, but...

Did the '04s like yours come with the 7/70 powertrain warranty like the '03s, or had DC dropped it for '04?

If it was still in effect, are you under 70k miles, because the rear main seal should be covered under that.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Sorry, I can't answer your question about a reasonable price for the job, but...

Did the '04s like yours come with the 7/70 powertrain warranty like the '03s, or had DC dropped it for '04?

If it was still in effect, are you under 70k miles, because the rear main seal should be covered under that.
I have that warranty and they fixed the seal under warranty on my 2000. This jeep has 76,000 miles so I'm stuck paying for it.
 
Around 400 is reasonable, but you can do it yourself for less then 100, thats the rear main, the oil pan gasket, the rtv and the 6 quarts of oil and any tools you may not have.

I did my rear main a few weekends ago. It took about 15 hours total but that just because I took a lot of breaks and the exhaust alone took about 5 hours to get off, the bolts were really rusted in. Air tools would have helped a ton!

Here's a great link to replacing the rear main.
http://www.jeephobby.com/repairs/rearmainseal/rearmainseal.php
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Here is another link to a good write up I found.

http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811

I just don't feel comfortable tackling this one. Suspension work and things like that don't bother me but this job does. I'd rather spend the extra money and have it be the dealership's problem if a bolt on the exhaust breaks or something. If it leaks again later down the road (which I'm sure it will at some point) I might give it a try.
 
It's not rocket science,,,,but it is an agrivating, messy, time consuming job.
I did my RM and oil pan about a month ago, and it took about 6 hours. But in that 6 hours
I fabbed a 1/4" steel plate for the bottom of my (new) oil pan.
As stated above,,,,AIR TOOLS make it much easier.
And $ 400 is definetely a fair price.
 
Site name changed to www.mijeeplife.com

Around 400 is reasonable, but you can do it yourself for less then 100, thats the rear main, the oil pan gasket, the rtv and the 6 quarts of oil and any tools you may not have.

I did my rear main a few weekends ago. It took about 15 hours total but that just because I took a lot of breaks and the exhaust alone took about 5 hours to get off, the bolts were really rusted in. Air tools would have helped a ton!

Here's a great link to replacing the rear main.
http://www.jeephobby.com/repairs/rearmainseal/rearmainseal.php
Hi all, just wanted to mention that the jeephobby website is no longer available. I recently lost the domain during when it expired and someone else picked it up for the purpose of selling it back to me. Nice huh. Anyways, the new site is www.mijeeplife.com - the links is still available as:

http://www.mijeeplife.com/repairs/rearmainseal/rearmainseal.php[/QUOTE]

I hope this article helped someone out.
Thanks,
Dale
 
i paid $500 for fixing mine. included rear main seal, the transmission one, oil pan, etc.

using original parts and including the Oil.
 
Just an FYI for folks with a 2000 TJ on the rear main seal. My 2000 Tj was a late build and some of the parts required are from a 2001. The rear main for the 2000 I6 is a double lip seal and cost $16. The 2001 is a single lip seal that cost $31. I pulled the oil pan off and spun the old seal out only to realize that the new one would not work. Of course all the parts stores were closed by then!
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
if you really want to track $$'s, wait and do it when you need an oil change, then you have not spent $ for oil.
Funny you mention that... I had my seals done about 2 weeks after a giving the jeep a mobil 1 oil change. It was leaking pretty good and I wanted to get it done to stop the leak. the 400 I paid included oil so it wasn't the end of the world. i'm pretty sure my switch to synthetic in the first place cleaned out he crud and caused the leak since that was the first ime I put synthetic in and it leaked pretty good shortly after.
 
Most of you probab;y won't like to hear this BUTT the number one reason for rear oil main seals leaks is from switching oil brands.Usually if you stick with it for a few oil changes the chemistry balances and the seal will stop leaking.The seal is sensitive to the oil its been exposed to its entire life,change that chemistry and it may leak.Gotta give it time to change.

My 98 was dry when i bought it BUTT after changing oil it started to leak quite a bit.I just watched the level and let it leak.Now after quite a few miles and oil changes it is completely dry.It needed time to change to the new oils chemistry.
 
Did it myself in a Saturday, a month ago.
Cost was:
new seal=$16
Oil pan gasket- $25
Sealant-$12( this in NOT used on the oil pan except in 2 1 inch spots by the timing chain!!!) It is also for 2 small(real small, like a dot) spots on the new seal. Don't buy much.
Oil/filter-$40 I use Mobil1

The hardest part was moving the exhaust out of the way. A pain.
And it is a dirty job, lots of dripping oil. Use a drop cloth.
 
Most of you probab;y won't like to hear this BUTT the number one reason for rear oil main seals leaks is from switching oil brands.Usually if you stick with it for a few oil changes the chemistry balances and the seal will stop leaking.The seal is sensitive to the oil its been exposed to its entire life,change that chemistry and it may leak.Gotta give it time to change.

My 98 was dry when i bought it BUTT after changing oil it started to leak quite a bit.I just watched the level and let it leak.Now after quite a few miles and oil changes it is completely dry.It needed time to change to the new oils chemistry.
funny you mention that i dont know if this is coinsidence or what. jeep i just recently purchased did not seem to have any leaks and i just changed the oil and used mobil 1 because this is what i use in all my vehicles and i am sure the pr did not use mobil 1. now i have a leak but the jeep does not leak when it has been sitting i dont not drive it yet because its to cold in the mornings and my new top has not come in yet. but ever other day or so when i crank it to let it run a pretty significant amount of oil will come out almost like it is puddling up in the bottom of the bell housing them come out when the engine is started i would assume this is also the rear main leaking because the area around the valve cover seem to be dry.
Image
 
Just an FYI for folks with a 2000 TJ on the rear main seal. My 2000 Tj was a late build and some of the parts required are from a 2001. The rear main for the 2000 I6 is a double lip seal and cost $16. The 2001 is a single lip seal that cost $31. I pulled the oil pan off and spun the old seal out only to realize that the new one would not work. Of course all the parts stores were closed by then!
I know this is an "old" thread, but I appreciate your insight with regard to the RMS. I've a late build 2000 and was about to kick off this project myself! So thanks! :2thumbsup:
 
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