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Wheelinwheels

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I’m relative new to the overland community and I have a question, I have a eco diesel 3.0 and I’m running Dana 30 In the front while having Dana 44 in the rear, along with a 3” lift would I be able to run 37” tires with out a re-gearing my axles? I was told with how much torque I put out I would not have to regear, just want another opinion, And if so how much does it usually run to regear ?
 
First question would be, what gears are in it now? If uncertain, but you know they are factory, it should say on your build sheet. Find a free copy from Chrysler here:

 
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I would not run 37s on a Dana 30. If you are a mall crawler it will probably be fine. But if you are actually off roading that is a bad idea. If you are dead set on 37s you should look at upgrading to RCV axle shafts or at the very least carry spare spare shafts/u-joints.

What I would do is look for a used Dana 44/M210 front axle for sale on FB marketplace then bolt that in. They are pretty common since lots of people upgrade to won-tons. You might be able to find a gear ratio that matches your rear. Or even better find a lower (numerically higher) ratio axle that will save you money on a re-gear. That way you only have to re-gear the rear to match your new front. Generally a re-gear will be $1,000-$1,500 per axle.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I would not run 37s on a Dana 30. If you are a mall crawler it will probably be fine. But if you are actually off roading that is a bad idea. If you are dead set on 37s you should look at upgrading to RCV axle shafts or at the very least carry spare spare shafts/u-joints.

What I would do is look for a used Dana 44/M210 front axle for sale on FB marketplace then bolt that in. They are pretty common since lots of people upgrade to won-tons. You might be able to find a gear ratio that matches your rear. Or even better find a lower (numerically higher) ratio axle that will save you money on a re-gear. That way you only have to re-gear the rear to match your new front. Generally a re-gear will be $1,000-$1,500 per axle.
Thank you for the help, no I’m not a mall craw, I’m just trying to figure out what I should upgrade first since I’m relatively new to this, I have 35” and it run well I just figured I could go up, this my first year overlanding
 
Thank you for the help, no I’m not a mall craw, I’m just trying to figure out what I should upgrade first since I’m relatively new to this, I have 35” and it run well I just figured I could go up, this my first year overlanding
You're already at the upper end of the tire size you should run on the Dana 30. If you are overlanding only chances are 35s are more than adequate. I'd only go up if you actually need it and have been running out of clearance and getting stuck because of it.

More tire equals more problems. The biggest rookie mistakes I see are adding too much unnecessary weight and going too big on tires (also unneccessary weight). Breaking parts is a real concern the bigger your tires get. Unfortunately its a negative feedback loop. Jeeps (and all vehicles) keep getting bigger and heavier. To support the bigger heavier vehicle we need bigger tires. To support the bigger tires we need heavier duty axles, steering, suspension all which add more weight. To support the added weight we need bigger tires again. And down we spiral. A TJ or XJ on 33s will out wheel a JLU on 37s all day. Sometimes less is more. Especially off road.
 
If you have 3.73s you won't need to regear in an eco till 39s. Ran 37s on mine since day one, no issues what so ever. It was a rubi tho so had adequate front end.

The idea of finding a rubi front is a good one but if it doesn't come out of another eco it will be 410 ratio. The eco rubis only came with 373s.

The mention of finding a rubi and only needing to regear the rear is also a good avenue but I wouldn't go deeper than 410s. Met plenty of eco owners regearing and 90% of them regretted it if they were under 40s
 
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