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... I've read where some owners say they connect theirs to a trickle charger whenever it is parked at home. That seems a bit excessive, IMHO.
In many cases it probably is. Ours is not a daily driver and can sit for some indeterminate time. After having to screw around with ESS (mysteriously working again now) I'm contemplating a putting a maintainer pigtail on it since I already have a Battery Tender.
 
Well, Fed Ex delivered my battery. A younger gal hoofed it to my door. I helped. She should have used a 2 wheeled dolly.

It came in a larger box with bubble wrap. Then the battery was wrapped in cardboard. It was damaged. Someone dropped it. 😕

Broke some of the plastic bits, but not enough to return it. Had this happen the last battery from them. Shipped from NY. Just a FYI

Don't plan on shipping back the old one. $11-12 core charge won't be worth it. I gave my last battery to my coworker.
 
OK, I took the AUX battery out this morning. Just getting ready to change the main battery. I started it without the AUX battery to see what it does. I just get the service unavailable message.

Tested my AUX battery, 12 ish volts. Load tested with a lamp, seems fine. Charged up and put back in. Now the service ESS is still there... :unsure:

Do I have to do the.... (copy and paste)

It will take 6-hours of "quiet time" for the IBS to learn the state of charge of the new batteries.
After the vehicle sits overnight it should start working normally again

If you want to reset it instantly, you can turn the key to the run position without starting the engine and then unplug the 2 wire connector that's on the IBS for about 10 seconds. When you plug it back in It will default to 95% SOC I believe. It will continue to learn so if the batteries are in fact bad, ESS will stop working again once it relearns the state of charge.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I can be a bit paranoid, at times a benefit, often unuseful, but I don't know how AGM batt's are made and I'd worry about the battery flexing during impact and stuff inside not being quite right, just me, you don't have to be as paranoid as me.

Both my batt's tested ok, my aux was only down 3 cold cranking amps from nominal. Many batt's are actually underrated, 650 CCA but actually closer to 750 or such, with AGM's at least. And my bigg batt was only 50 CCA under nominal, nonetheless their ampacity wouldn't increase with charging. So I replaced both. It seems ColdCase was right from earlier, AGM's die and die fast, from reading and reviews I've come across after reading their comment. There's a guy at my local auto store that is kind of a guru into lots of vehicles, he told me on these that the aux battery is powering everything while the auto-off is active (at a stop, engine off, waiting for brake release) including ignition circuit, waiting for the signal to call the big batt to engage the starter. I kinda don't see how this is true, given there isn't a voltage potential difference between them when all is connected, but what do I know. Anyway, talking about it for a while I decided to replace the aux batt while I was there. he also told me those aren't manufactured as well as the main batt's and are usually only good for 1-2 years. Yeah, I know, lots of opinions on what brand is the best and manufactured better in such and such factory... best resource on that I found on ProjectFarm on youtube, I won't state an opinion of mine.

Can't comment on the IBS reprogramming, haven't done that myself yet.
 
...There's a guy at my local auto store that is kind of a guru into lots of vehicles, he told me on these that the aux battery is powering everything while the auto-off is active (at a stop, engine off, waiting for brake release) including ignition circuit, waiting for the signal to call the big batt to engage the starter. I kinda don't see how this is true
It is true. The aux battery provides the vehicle's juice when ESS stops the engine.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
There is an isolation relay involved. A description of how ESS works has been posted here a few times

The last post of the following thread for example.


FYI, testing an AGM battery like you would a flooded cell provides useless results.
Thanks for the link about the ESS, I had no idea. AGM vs flooded lead acid battery testing, are you referring to powering a light with it? Or me with my auto parts person using their battery tester (I don't know what tech is in that thing).
 
Parts shops should have learned the proper way to test AGMs and have the tight equipment by now. They have been doing it for a decade+.
 
My ESS yellow light did not go out after 6 hours. Still on. Just from disconnecting it for a while. 😕

Going to try the IBS disconnect reset and see if that works...

ADD: well, I went outside to solve the problem and it solved itself. Turned ACC on, no idiot light. Run, no faults. Looks like the service ESS system went away! :D

Looks like it needs more like 24 hours to relearn. If one or both batteries are bad, I'd think it would not reset to normal?

ADD again: I tried remote start, worked fine. But now the unavailable service ESS is on again. Still not sure what the problem is. 🤷‍♂️
 
Parts shops should have learned the proper way to test AGMs and have the right equipment by now. They have been doing it for a decade+.
The service manual says to use this....Around $3000 dollars.

 
Well, I went to Fleet Farm and got a Top Don 6000 pro battery tester/charger. Download the APP and you can test it remotely! Save test results, etc..


Took the AUX battery out and tested it. DIMINISHED PERFORMANCE. 135 CCA. 😕

I'll probably take the main battery out or test it in the vehicle here tomorrow.
 
Anyone ever try a power sports battery for the AUX one?

Only $40 ish and the only thing I see is swapping over the stud from the battery terminals. I may try it... :unsure:

Or Amazon...


Well, it's ordered! I'll let you guys know how the MM battery works! :)
 
Some stuff I was reading suggested AGMs can be checked with the old school load test. Load it to 1/2 of rated CCA for 15 sec (or something like that), then do some voltage readings.
Yeah, if you know what you are doing, you can get pretty good at checking AGM batteries using old school tech. Its just different than flooded cells.
 
I've seen talk of it and thought about temporarily trying one out of my motorcycle for troubleshooting.

First thought for me on a permanent basis though is if it has provision to hook up the factory/OEM venting system.

Yeah, come to think of it they have a safety valve...

Image



I just charged and tested my main battery, tested good but not great.
 
Yeah, AGMs typically have a safety vent of some type. That's not necessarily the whole story though, and not the vent I'm talking about.

I believe the specific AUX14 battery type has a place to connect the external vent system tubes that are in the vehicle.

It is not clear if the powersport batteries have that external vent connection. Personally, I would not use a battery that doesn't have the external vent tube connection.
 
Yeah, you don't want the battery to vent into the passenger compartment. The vent hose directs the gas to the exterior.
 
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