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There are date punch out on some batteries and a code on others. When I get a new battery I take a black magic marker and find a place on top [usually a sticker] where I write the date of installation. As for replacement on non AGM batteries I figured if I got 5 years out of one then that was time for a replacement, Too much hassle if it dies on the road. I am new to AGMs and some of the ads say "lasts twice as long as liquid" which seems some what of a stretch. Perhaps some of the AGM guys on the Forum can chime in on what they see as a reasonable life for AGMs. I also carry a relatively inexpensive lithium battery starting pak which I keep with the spare tire. That can take care of the hassle if battery goes dead.
 
There is a when should I replace my battery thread around here somewhere. I think 5-6 years was the consensus, but there are folks that change early and those that wait to the very end with success. I think you'll find quite a few 2011s with original 9 year old batteries :)
 
Had a similar issue with Advanced Auto after doing an online order with store pickup for my 2014 Limited.I gave them my core (without comparing size) and brought the website recommended H8 battery back home and found out it was too big.
Fortunately I have a 2012 Altitude and just purchased a batter a few months ago for it at the same Advance locatation.They looked that one up and it calls for an H7.They brought my core back up and compared sizes and sure enough the core matched up with the H7 exactly.I believe its a website issue recommending the wrong battery for 2014 and up WK2's
After advising Advance Auto on their website and receiving incorrect answers I asked that the question be pushed up the line. Today I received a call from Advance that began with them wondering if I had asked for the battery for a 3.6 gas which of course they list as an H-8. After a longer discussion of manufacturers data and some common sense with info provided by Forum members such as the need to buy the H-8 hold down etc. we came to the conclusion that someone at Jeep had inadvertently switched battery recommendations. The rep mentioned that it might not get corrected immediately because their spec books had just been printed but would see if the online recommendation could be corrected. Since the H-8 can be made to fit in the 3.6 gas and some members even prefer that as an upgrade I doubt this will be an immediate priority for Advance but that is "the rest of the story". :smile2:
 
Interesting, but some sites have the H7 listed correctly, so it appears FCA gives different recommendations to the different outlets? Advanced may be looking at the batteries for exports.

The FCA parts book for gas engines has BBAH7800AA for the US though 2016 (same as the earlier WK, H7 / 800CCA) BBAH7700AB (700CCA) for later models, BE0H8800AA for Europe and Middle East export (H8 / 800CCA), BA094R730W for South and Latin America and perhaps Canada (H7 730CCA).

The 2011 FCA service manual for gas engines is H7 / 700CCA, 75AH; for diesels H8 / 800CCA, 85 AH

But then one is suppose to check the installed battery's label for its group size to confirm.

Sounds like a typo along the way.
 
Interesting, Autozone list H7 (Group 94) for the 2013 gas V6 and H8 (Group 49) for a 2014 V6 (H7 for the V8) :) RockAuto seems to be the same. The generic battery finder sites say H8 for the V6 and H7 for the V8....

Perhaps the battery manufactures and outlets have confused the V6 engines... i.e. they are incorrectly applying the V6 diesel part (H8) to both V6 engines (diesels were introduced in 2014) ... They seem to continue listing the H7s for the V8, well at least Oreily does.

So check the label on your battery, take a photo.

Jeep (moparonlineparts.com) lists the BBAH8800AB (H8 800CCA) or BBAH7700AB (H7 700CCA) depending on the OEM for both 2013 and 2014. They will look up via VIN

The Jeep specification sheets for 2014 and 2015 list "Maintenance Free (H7 700 CCA-Gas / H8 800 CCA -Diesel)" batteries.

So if you go to a Mopar parts site or dealer, they should give you an H7 for gas WK2s, at least for 2013, 2014 and 2015.
 
Thanks, you can understand the fun I was having discussing this issue with higher up techs at Advance Auto. I can't blame them after seeing your post above. Made me question my sanity. The strange thing is that, as mentioned in this thread, if an H-8 is installed the hold down bracket would not fit because the battery is 1 1/2" longer. It would require the hold down for the diesel. I would think that this issue must have come up multiple times with as many places recommending H-8s. I wonder how many buyers just skip using the hold down?

I was about to add that perhaps we should buy the H-8 since on the sites I checked the H-6. H-7 and H-8 were all the same price [$199.99 less 20% discount on some] then I looked at glowing reviews for other car makes until this one below;
Hopefully my review makes it to the site this time. Got this battery as first replacement from factory battery because it states OE exact fit. Jeep GCs battery is in the cab under the passenger seat - so not a lot of room for it not to be OE exact size. The battery is easily 2 inches longer and taller than OE. I had to rig a new brace so it did not slide/bounce all around in my car and the interior cover looks like my dog buried a bone under my seat. If you an interior battery I would look elsewhere.

What kind of vehicle do you drive? 2015 Jeep Grand Cherrokee Limited 4WD 3.6
 
I'm not sure how many 2014 and newer batteries are being replaced, it may not have come up that often. After being wrong at some outlets for awhile, the 2011-2013 part listings seem to now be more consistent and get you the right H7 battery.

I forget, does the longer H8 size battery plus the ESS battery fit in the battery compartment regardless of tie down?
 
I forget, does the longer H8 size battery plus the ESS battery fit in the battery compartment regardless of tie down?

To be honest I do not know. I believe my 2014 was the year before the ESS system was introduced.
Speaking of batteries I did have the first issue with my '14. Thought I had problem when suddenly not being able to open cargo door with key fob. Fortunately it was the key fob battery. Easy fix but surprised me since I still had original fob battery in my 08. Must be more battery usage as I "assume" the constant communication between fob and Jeep shortens battery life. The '08 Laredo just unlocked the door with button. I did notice they now sell a lithium 2032 battery which could be a better choice for the '14.
 
So I was driving Tuesday early in the morning (46 degrees F) and the transmission took longer to shift into each higher gear, with a normal speed increase - not gassing it. So I thought about this thread, and forum, and all the posts I read about how the TIPM controls everything. Then yesterday my wife tells me the same thing. Today was the same with the addition of the Check Engine light coming on. I just KNOW it's the battery - I can feel it in my bones - I Hope!! So I check for an H7 online local to me and purchase it, Bosch $173 (including taxes and CA fees and $18 core fee). I get home and replace it, bring the old one back for my core refund, and no CE light! Thank you all for posting to this forum and helping out the people like me who wouldn't know otherwise!
Here's the pics of the old one - I didn't see any clear dates on it. Can anyone tell how old it is? Is it original to the Jeep?
 

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Well, I have a '17 WK2 75th Anniversary 4x2 w/ ESS. To the best of my knowledge, it still has the original batteries. I have been traveling awhile with the ESS disabled message and have been looking at batteries.



First thing... it has an H6 in it now. Sites I have been on say the H7 is for non-ESS and H6 is for ESS models, and physically measuring my battery seems to confirm the H6 bit anyway. The same sites also say the 2nd battery is an AUX14, but have no real way to verify this beforehand.


With the ESS issue, am I right to guess it is the aux battery that really needs replaced? As both batteries are about 4 years old, should I also go ahead and replace the big battery while I am at it, or should it be safe to keep using it? I am in coastal Florida, so while heat isn't as bad as elsewhere, we do have a salt air concern.


TIA
James
 
So I was driving Tuesday early in the morning (46 degrees F) and the transmission took longer to shift into each higher gear, with a normal speed increase - not gassing it. So I thought about this thread, and forum, and all the posts I read about how the TIPM controls everything. Then yesterday my wife tells me the same thing. Today was the same with the addition of the Check Engine light coming on. I just KNOW it's the battery - I can feel it in my bones - I Hope!! So I check for an H7 online local to me and purchase it, Bosch $173 (including taxes and CA fees and $18 core fee). I get home and replace it, bring the old one back for my core refund, and no CE light! Thank you all for posting to this forum and helping out the people like me who wouldn't know otherwise!
Here's the pics of the old one - I didn't see any clear dates on it. Can anyone tell how old it is? Is it original to the Jeep?
FWIW, I just got a new one in my 2012, and fully assume it, and yours was original.
Here is mine.
I searched and the part number is even obsolete now.
 

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Quick follow-up. All the forum discussion paid off with Advance Auto :smile2: Remember I had contacted their management about the issue. If you use there battery finder a H-7 is now recommended as the "exact fit" battery for the 2014 GC Limited 3.6. Not the H-8 as was recommended previously. :smile2:
 
I'm not sure how many 2014 and newer batteries are being replaced, it may not have come up that often. After being wrong at some outlets for awhile, the 2011-2013 part listings seem to now be more consistent and get you the right H7 battery.

I forget, does the longer H8 size battery plus the ESS battery fit in the battery compartment regardless of tie down?
On my '17, the main battery is an H6 and the aux is AUX14 by one brand. An H7 MIGHT fit if you make your own brackets, but no way will an H8 fit in there with the aux battery.
 
So I was driving Tuesday early in the morning (46 degrees F) and the transmission took longer to shift into each higher gear, with a normal speed increase - not gassing it. So I thought about this thread, and forum, and all the posts I read about how the TIPM controls everything. Then yesterday my wife tells me the same thing. Today was the same with the addition of the Check Engine light coming on. I just KNOW it's the battery - I can feel it in my bones - I Hope!! So I check for an H7 online local to me and purchase it, Bosch $173 (including taxes and CA fees and $18 core fee). I get home and replace it, bring the old one back for my core refund, and no CE light! Thank you all for posting to this forum and helping out the people like me who wouldn't know otherwise!
Here's the pics of the old one - I didn't see any clear dates on it. Can anyone tell how old it is? Is it original to the Jeep?
This is the battery I have also. I assume it's the original unless the previous owners replaced it.

No date code on it that I can see.
 
My battery kinda had some sluggish starts the last few days. Had 12.35V last night at work and fired right up.

This morning it has only 12.15 VDC.

Here is the OEM battery.

https://www.moparpartswebstore.com/...AREDO-36L-V6-4X4/BATTERY-Storage-US--US--Canada-Mexico/94380353/BBH7A001AA.html

That battery is around $260 shipped! I have the 700CCA battery.

Just looking around getting ready for my imminent battery failure. I'm the type that waits until the battery is toast. Rolling the dice! :laugh2:

Got my old battery loose this morning, took off the terminals (clean) and hold down clamp.
 
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