I was looking to replace my mid pipe . What's the advantages of using the TJ pipe ?
So there is nothing wrong with what you have other than it's old. Just swap it out. Don't make it into a bigger project to fix a non-existent problem.It has holes from being patched over and over. I was looking at the magnflow tj pipe with the converter. I also need a converter.
So there is nothing wrong with what you have other than it's old. Just swap it out. Don't make it into a bigger project to fix a non-existent problem.
I meant swap out the pipe, but with a normal YJ pipe (and converter, if needed too). I'm saying don't convert to TJ when the routing of the stock YJ pipe is not an issue.Don I patched it with steel not stainless so it has rusted and requires attention every few weeks
Dake, Chris' advantage means it will help 'maybe once in a while under the perfectly wrong conditions while off-road'. The disadvantage is 'every time you turn the key'.The advantage of the TJ pipe? Ground clearance.
The disadvantage? Power loss.
I just realized that probably half the vehicles on the road these days do not need a to 'turn a key' to start. Sort of sad. I also can't help but notice that in video these days people still say 'footage', like when it was filmstock. [Should it be 'video stream'?] Hopefully 'turn the key' will stick around too.'every time you turn the key'[/I].
Maybe is isn't that bad. But maybe it is.Too bad there's not dynamometer pulls somewhere on this. The few instances I've seen dyno pulls mentioned for the 4.0 there were other components (for stroker) at issue, and the TJ pipe wasn't factored. I'm not sure it has that much of an effect, but I may be wrong. At non-race motor levels it may not be a big deal. While it may bother my mind a little (horsepower loss) the 5HP Chris mentions is 2-3% in practical terms. AMC Blue motor paint makes up for that
I remember a tech document (Thorley?) years ago that indicated extra bends didn't change flow much if at all, but controlling pipe shape (not oval) and equal length header tuning made a big difference in flow. "Some" resistance actually helped low end more than a smaller diameter exit pipe did, both reduced upper end HP. However this was on a V8 of some sort and pretty likely had a big cam which usually hates low rpm anyway, so this may not be relevant to our motors. Just stuff I remember from my youth days of fascination with drag racing.
But these were all mid- to upper-RPM effects. So I am of the /opinion/ that for a DD/trail rig it isn't that important.
I don't think you're trying hard enough.Since 1996, when I first bought my totally stock 1993 YJ, my exhaust pipe has been in the stock location, crossing over under the front end of the trans. I have never (Ever!) hit the pipe on a rock in 21 years of off-roading.
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Oh, I've hit plenty of stuff on rocks (have parts receipts to prove it:grin2I don't think you're trying hard enough.![]()
YepWell if Jeep would have kept passenger side drop with a Dana 300 they wouldn't have needed to mess with exhaust on the driver side because it would be straight all the way out!
I'm trying to think in my head of which way the rear trac bar went. But I think I recall it being well above and clear of the tailpipe on the passenger side. With 'full' flex, would this impact a tailpipe on the driver's side?I wonder why they decided to switch drop sides from CJ to YJ. There had to be some rationale (engineering issue? ... cost?), but I don't see it. I can maybe see a pass drop being better in that a CJ was offered with a V8. Stuffing both the drive shaft and steering on one side of a V8 would be tougher than splitting them up. Even then, why go to dvr drop when the V8 was dropped.
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