93' Jeep YJ build...LS3, linked with ORI's and Currie D60's.

jsawduste · Aug 10, 2013

What are your plans for the rear RJ and gas tank clearance ?

Kept mine SOA with zero lift Alcans (just a 2 inch stretch) there was no way the lower lip of the RJ was going to clear the tank at stuff. After doing several mockups I ended up ordering the GR tank. Plenty of room now.

The cut and remold of the factory skid/plastic tank is a hack way of doing things.

BTW if you use KOH2012DVD in the GR checkout it is worth 20-25%.

HIJACK, Joe looks like a good install. See that you used Curries stuff all the way out. Can`t get better then that. From the completed picture it also looks like the tie rod is positioned to give you positive Ackerman.

Can`t help but think there is a little Blaine influence in there.

DLWRUBI · Aug 10, 2013

Joe Dillard said:
Thanks.

If you have a plate like this one that attaches to the top of the RJ to start out with, you *might* be able to get the desired uptravel you are shooting for.

IIRC, on Mikes (the one we finished a couple weeks ago/the one depicted above) we got ~6.5" of uptravel during hard bump and ~5.5" of down travel.

We used a set of JK lower coil buckets that we trimmed the shoulders down so that the bucket sits ~1/16" above the axle tube. Doing this allowed us to gain ~2" of front wheelbase stretch. Reason being, by converting to the JK lower coil bucket, the axle tube sits directly below the coil instead of how it is stock.

Here's a couple pics of the lower bucket as I was trimming the shoulders down.

If you look at the UCA mount, you can see where I trimmed it to be as low as possible, yet there's no bind during max uptravel.

We took the stock LJ DPA, heated it up, and flattened it on the press.

Here you can see most of the remainder of the bracket I made for the UCA. Doing it this way allows for you to remove the diff cover.

You can see the beginnings of the tracbar bracket we made on the frame end as well. The TB bracket captures the frame on both sides, plus its triangulated.

Here's how she sits:

Looking forward to seeing more of your build.

That's some real good work there Joe, thanks for sharing.

My upper CA plate is a little different but same concept http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=FSM1010. I know I've seen that upper mount you used somewhere before but can't seem to find it.

Trying to stay with a low COG, I may need to re-think the ORI setup with it's minimum 5.5" up travel. Coil overs can get me a couple more inches less up travel and keep me lower to the ground without the differential ending up in the engine.

Pushing the front end a couple inches forward has bought me some more room, but will need to relocate the alternator, so it may be possible to still mount the upper CA over the diff with the bracket I have.

DLWRUBI · Aug 10, 2013

jsawduste said:
What are your plans for the rear RJ and gas tank clearance ?

Kept mine SOA with zero lift Alcans (just a 2 inch stretch) there was no way the lower lip of the RJ was going to clear the tank at stuff. After doing several mockups I ended up ordering the GR tank. Plenty of room now.

The cut and remold of the factory skid/plastic tank is a hack way of doing things.

BTW if you use KOH2012DVD in the GR checkout it is worth 20-25%.

HIJACK, Joe looks like a good install. See that you used Curries stuff all the way out. Can`t get better then that. From the completed picture it also looks like the tie rod is positioned to give you positive Ackerman.

Can`t help but think there is a little Blaine influence in there.

I already have the GR tank in the garage, no poly molding stuff for me

.

Thanks for the code, I had one when I ordered all the GR link kits and stuff, but I don't think it was worth 20%. I'll be keeping that code handy.

DLWRUBI · Aug 10, 2013

caddyman said:
Happy to see you started this thread. Looks to be a great start! Have fun with it.

email sent

Thanks for the email Dwain, most helpful.

Joe Dillard · Aug 10, 2013

DLWRUBI said:
That's some real good work there Joe, thanks for sharing.

My upper CA plate is a little different but same concept http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=FSM1010. I know I've seen that upper mount you used somewhere before but can't seem to find it.

Trying to stay with a low COG, I may need to re-think the ORI setup with it's minimum 5.5" up travel. Coil overs can get me a couple more inches less up travel and keep me lower to the ground without the differential ending up in the engine.

Pushing the front end a couple inches forward has bought me some more room, but will need to relocate the alternator, so it may be possible to still mount the upper CA over the diff with the bracket I have.

Thanks. Relocating the alt sounds like a potential PITA. I can see where using the GR UCA mount could come in handy in certain applications. It looks like a nice unit that still allows for diff cover removal.

That upper control arm mount was made by yours truly.

We started with the flat plate & a Currie control arm mount that I trimmed down the top & rounded it, then I shaved as much off the bottom as possible to get it low.

The rest of the mount was made by cutting up some cardboard template pieces, then tracing those onto steel plate that I ground to shape. We added the tube & bolt to the bracket for sake of removal. It was pretty time consuming. So much so - we kept the cardboard templates for future use so we don't have to reinvent the wheel. :teehee: Matter of fact - I saved all the templates I made, which were several.

Joe Dillard · Aug 10, 2013

jsawduste said:
HIJACK, Joe looks like a good install. See that you used Curries stuff all the way out. Can't get better then that. From the completed picture it also looks like the tie rod is positioned to give you positive Ackerman.

Can't help but think there is a little Blaine influence in there.

We (Blaine & I) did a whole gaggle of work during this build. Mike (the owner of the Savvy LJ Test Mule) is extremely happy with the outcome. He's bringing it over to my house tomorrow so that we can tweak a couple minor things and so that I can drive it again.

The ackerman is nothing short of fantastic! When you look at the tie rod connections through the inner C opening under the ball joints, they aim perfectly to the center of the rear RJ. :highfive:

Yea, Blaine was at the wheel of this build as I assisted. In Mike's words - its a point & shoot rig.

ssyj94 · Aug 10, 2013

Good Plan:thumbsup::cheers2:

Trying to stay with a low COG, I may need to re-think the ORI setup with it's minimum 5.5" up travel. Coil overs can get me a couple more inches less up travel and keep me lower to the ground without the differential ending up in the engine.

I wouldn't run any less than 5-6" up travel if you plan on going fast. I've got 5" in the front of mine and wish I had more. It'll be tricky making everything clear but I wouldn't worry about pushing the front forward and even reworking the steering box mount. What wheelbase are you shooting for?

jsawduste · Aug 10, 2013

Joe Dillard said:
The ackerman is nothing short of fantastic! When you look at the tie rod connections through the inner C opening under the ball joints, they aim perfectly to the center of the rear RJ. :highfive:

Yea, Blaine was at the wheel of this build as I assisted. In Mike's words - its a point & shoot rig.

Joe, I think you would agree with me. If the JF folks could get there arms around the importance of positive Ackerman so many of the ill handling, DWing threads would disappear.

Achieving it is not that hard once the concept is understood.

jsawduste · Aug 10, 2013

DLWRUBI said:
I already have the GR tank in the garage, no poly molding stuff for me .

Thanks for the code, I had one when I ordered all the GR link kits and stuff, but I don't think it was worth 20%. I'll be keeping that code handy.

Good deal on the tank.

Here in Michigan rust tends to eat the top/tubes to the sending unit. The aftermarket replacements are chintzy IMHO. Not to mention the wiring is piss poor.

Plus on my GR tank the fuel pickup/return was a bit long. So I combined the new aftermarket upper and the OEM lower.

On the upper I cut out a 3/8 rectangular ring and drilled the holes for the mounting bolts. Got rid of the riveted tab and drove a #10 screw that is lockwashered and nylock nutted on both sides. This way I can attach a good ring terminal to both sides for a positive ground.

For the lower section the new sending units tubes were expanded ever so slightly and the OEM lower tubes were pushed in and silver soldered in place. Doing this gave me a solid upper and a factory lower sending unit at the correct length for the GR tank.

Mounted the new sender unit to the OEM lower as the ethanol will eat the plastic OEM unit right up. Of course the arm was bent to show an empty tank at full droop.

Not sure what your going to do for a fuel pump but here again combining the two units means I can use a factory OEM FP instead of some chintzy aftermarket unit. The pump I used was a Bosch 9580810019 which was at least a third larger in diameter then what came with the aftermarket sender. Plus you can order the strainer sock from the dealer for less then 10 bucks.

A few hours work but I want to trust my fuel system.

DLWRUBI · Aug 10, 2013

Joe Dillard said:
Thanks. Relocating the alt sounds like a potential PITA. I can see where using the GR UCA mount could come in handy in certain applications. It looks like a nice unit that still allows for diff cover removal.

That upper control arm mount was made by yours truly.

We started with the flat plate & a Currie control arm mount that I trimmed down the top & rounded it, then I shaved as much off the bottom as possible to get it low.

The rest of the mount was made by cutting up some cardboard template pieces, then tracing those onto steel plate that I ground to shape. We added the tube & bolt to the bracket for sake of removal. It was pretty time consuming. So much so - we kept the cardboard templates for future use so we don't have to reinvent the wheel. :teehee: Matter of fact - I saved all the templates I made, which were several.

The Alt will be a PITA a bit. They make a bracket that will put it up on the passenger head but I also have some stuff already mounted on the passenger head I would need to relocate.

I saw this UCA mount on one of GR site pics and reminded me of yours, that's why I thought there might have been a kit but more likely that one was custom done also.

I need to learn more about this Ackerman tie rod mounting

..

DLWRUBI · Aug 10, 2013

ssyj94 said:
Good Plan:thumbsup::cheers2:

I wouldn't run any less than 5-6" up travel if you plan on going fast. I've got 5" in the front of mine and wish I had more. It'll be tricky making everything clear but I wouldn't worry about pushing the front forward and even reworking the steering box mount. What wheelbase are you shooting for?

That is very true and a good point. For rock crawling, less up travel would be best (LCOG) but I can see higher speed stuff needing more up travel. If I stick to my plan with the ORI's, I will be at 6" up travel. This is a general purpose build, meaning I will be hitting the rocks as well as the dunes and some desert, nothing horribly fast though. Unfortunately I don't have complete freedom of staying as low as possible and still have decent up travel.

DLWRUBI · Aug 10, 2013

jsawduste said:
Good deal on the tank.

Here in Michigan rust tends to eat the top/tubes to the sending unit. The aftermarket replacements are chintzy IMHO. Not to mention the wiring is piss poor.

Plus on my GR tank the fuel pickup/return was a bit long. So I combined the new aftermarket upper and the OEM lower.

On the upper I cut out a 3/8 rectangular ring and drilled the holes for the mounting bolts. Got rid of the riveted tab and drove a #10 screw that is lockwashered and nylock nutted on both sides. This way I can attach a good ring terminal to both sides for a positive ground.

For the lower section the new sending units tubes were expanded ever so slightly and the OEM lower tubes were pushed in and silver soldered in place. Doing this gave me a solid upper and a factory lower sending unit at the correct length for the GR tank.

Mounted the new sender unit to the OEM lower as the ethanol will eat the plastic OEM unit right up. Of course the arm was bent to show an empty tank at full droop.

Not sure what your going to do for a fuel pump but here again combining the two units means I can use a factory OEM FP instead of some chintzy aftermarket unit. The pump I used was a Bosch 9580810019 which was at least a third larger in diameter then what came with the aftermarket sender. Plus you can order the strainer sock from the dealer for less then 10 bucks.

A few hours work but I want to trust my fuel system.

More good info there. Maybe you can throw a pic or two up of that mod.

Right now I have an Aeromotive stealth 340 lph pump I am going to swap out with the stock pump and adjust as necessary for pickup.

Joe Dillard · Aug 11, 2013

Yea, that GR bracket does look a lot like the one I made.

navman · Aug 11, 2013

DLWRUBI said:
That is very true and a good point. For rock crawling, less up travel would be best (LCOG) but I can see higher speed stuff needing more up travel. If I stick to my plan with the ORI's, I will be at 6" up travel. This is a general purpose build, meaning I will be hitting the rocks as well as the dunes and some desert, nothing horribly fast though. Unfortunately I don't have complete freedom of staying as low as possible and still have decent up travel.

I would sacrifice a little lcog for the added up travel with ori's. A little bit of added height for the ride and stability of the struts is an easy trade.

caoboy · Aug 11, 2013

Wow, this is going to be an awesome build!

How are you going to pass CARB?

DLWRUBI · Aug 11, 2013

caoboy said:
Wow, this is going to be an awesome build!

How are you going to pass CARB?

Thanks.

The motor is an E-rod crate deal, it comes CARB certified already so as long as I install it as intended, CARB will be no issue. The only problem I may run into is with the exhaust, so I may have to build two systems, one to get through visual inspection and the other to run normally routed how I need it.

DLWRUBI · Aug 11, 2013

navman said:
I would sacrifice a little lcog for the added up travel with ori's. A little bit of added height for the ride and stability of the struts is an easy trade.

Ok good. Once I relocate the alternator, it may be ok, still a little higher than intended but not to bad. Hope to have the skid plate sitting at 25" or less with 37's.

caoboy · Aug 12, 2013

DLWRUBI said:
Thanks.

The motor is an E-rod crate deal, it comes CARB certified already so as long as I install it as intended, CARB will be no issue. The only problem I may run into is with the exhaust, so I may have to build two systems, one to get through visual inspection and the other to run normally routed how I need it.

Do you have a link or more information on where you got your motor? I didn't know there were CARB certified engines. So that means you can pick one and pop it in? What about the transmission? ECU?

AmmitOsiris · Aug 12, 2013

caoboy said:
Do you have a link or more information on where you got your motor? I didn't know there were CARB certified engines. So that means you can pick one and pop it in? What about the transmission? ECU?

Yes there are carb legal crate engines, just about any manufacturer makes em, but you have to read the description so you'll know which one is carb legal

DLWRUBI · Aug 12, 2013

caoboy said:
Do you have a link or more information on where you got your motor? I didn't know there were CARB certified engines. So that means you can pick one and pop it in? What about the transmission? ECU?

This is just one link and not where I bought mine, but it's the same thing I bought. http://paceperformance.com/i-625556...62-19257230-gm-ls3-6-2l-gen-iv-e-rod-engine-package-automatic-transmission.html

I believe the e-rod setup is for pre OBD II vehicles. I have no idea if other crate engines come with an actual CARB cert or not, but you can get many swaps pass emissions and visual without a CARB cert by following the state rules and take it to a referee station. The E-rod comes in different flavors as well including the 5.3L. The E-rod package comes with everything including ECM, wiring harness, cats, manifolds, evap, FBW throttle peddle assy, all sensors, etc. It does not come with alt, PS and A/C..

93' Jeep YJ build...LS3, linked with ORI's and Currie D60's.

jsawduste

DLWRUBI

DLWRUBI

DLWRUBI

Joe Dillard

Joe Dillard

ssyj94

jsawduste

jsawduste

DLWRUBI

DLWRUBI

DLWRUBI

Joe Dillard

navman

caoboy

DLWRUBI

DLWRUBI

caoboy

AmmitOsiris

DLWRUBI

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