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Rear wheel bearing and axle problems

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pasinbuy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have replaced the rear wheel bearings 3 times in the last 15k miles. First time I also replaced the axle.

This last time I had a lot of silver in the oil. I cleaned the rear end good and replace the bearing and seal. After installation everything seems fine. This time after just 30 miles it appears that the new bearing is out. Loose and leaking oil.

I am wondering if the differential bearing is bad. I do not hear anything as I drive and or when I turn it by hand with the wheels raised. It does not seem loose.

I do not have the time now to search for a 8.8 and install it.
For now I need to fix my D35. What am I doing wrong and what is wrong with my rear end that bearings do not last?
 
#2 ·
Bent housing and/or tube will tend to eat bearings sometimes. With both shafts taken out, I can usually detect if the tubes have deflection which is an indicator of an axle tube or housing bent.

Have you tried putting it on jack stands, start it up & put it in gear to see if the wheel wobbles?

I have also used a digital angle finder & placed it against the face of each drum or axle shaft flange to see if there is a difference. Do this in the vertical plain in increments as you turn the wheels.
 
#4 ·
Once a D35 axle shaft & bearing starts shedding material into the oil, ALL the bearings in the axle (pinion & carrier bearings) are doomed to fail, including the new axle bearings.

COMPLETELY strip out/clean thoroughly the entire housing and replace ALL bearings for a full rebuild, or replace the entire axle assembly.

I personally don't recommend any D35 repair that exceeds $1.00, ever.

Max
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I jacked her up and used jack stands. Tried 1st to 3rd and saw no wobble. Since no wobble can I assume that the tubes are still straight?

I also took a stethoscope to the rear end and heard nothing out of the ordinary except at the bad wheel bearing.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Mean Max said:
Once a D35 axle shaft & bearing starts shedding material into the oil, ALL the bearings in the axle (pinion & carrier bearings) are doomed to fail, including the new axle bearings.

COMPLETELY strip out/clean thoroughly the entire housing and replace ALL bearings for a full rebuild, or replace the entire axle assembly.

I personally don't recommend any D35 repair that exceeds $1.00, ever.

Max
Click to expand...
I guess I will start looking for a 8.8 but for now I would like to get by with a clean fix. Max as far as replace the entire axle assembly what parts are you meaning other than bearing, seal, and axle?
 
#7 ·
By "entire axle" I meant using a completely different axle from another vehicle.

Max
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Will do...

I just checked and found out I have a 3.07 rear end.

What year Explorer 8.8 should I look for?
If I go drum brakes can I use my stock MC and other brake components?
Can I go with a 4.11 rear end and still drive my Yj until I change out my front 3.07 to a 4.11 ( Not going in 4wd. ) Pretty sure I know I can but want a second opinion.
 
#9 ·
You'll need a '95-'01 Ford Explorer that has an axle code of 42, or D2, on the driver's door VIN sticker.

42 = 4.10 open differential

D2 = 4.10 LSD (limited slip differential)

Yes, run the 4.10 rear & leave the front driveshaft out.

Max
 
#11 ·
'95-'01 Ford Explorer 8.8 has disc brakes.

I've installed over a dozen without altering the stock YJ hydraulics.

Max
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I figured out my problem. The axle I bought and the previous axle that came with my YJ had a short bearing sleeve. The bearings were resting on half of the axle sleeve. Then there is a drop off to a thinner axle. Therefor bearings going bad very quickly resting on only half a bearing sleeve. The fact that I fixed my D35 this time does not mean I am holding off on finding a 8.8, the time has come. I am going to start looking.

Thank you for the help Max and Joe.

Martin
 
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pasinbuy
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