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Discussion starter · #21 ·
3'' bds coils. soon swapping the rear to 2'' and adding a rokmen 0.5 bl. Imped I thought I fixed it fixing the heim joint and bushings on my trackbar as well as the unit bearings. Im getting $7.7k back on my taxes this year so I wanna buy stuff for the jeep even though it might not be needed.
 
MountainMan864 said:
3'' bds coils. soon swapping the rear to 2'' and adding a rokmen 0.5 bl. Imped I thought I fixed it fixing the heim joint and bushings on my trackbar as well as the unit bearings. Im getting $7.7k back on my taxes this year so I wanna buy stuff for the jeep even though it might not be needed.
Why would you buy stuff that's not needed? Seems like a waste of money to me.

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Have you tried adjusting the track bar? I was battling the same issue with mine for a while and initially found that my alignment was out of whack. I got it aligned and it came back not too long afterwards. Have you ever bent your steering drag links maybe out on the tail? That happened to me and even after getting another alignment didn't fix the problem. I checked everything on my front end like you have and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Long story short i found a steering system that completely got rid of the stock set up. When i hit a bump with the factory stuff at about 35mph i would get the dw from hell! I went with the uturn set up from offroad only and it completely alleviated the problem and it drives great. Just another thought for you.
 
Have you tried adjusting the track bar? I was battling the same issue with mine for a while and initially found that my alignment was out of whack. I got it aligned and it came back not too long afterwards. Have you ever bent your steering drag links maybe out on the tail? That happened to me and even after getting another alignment didn't fix the problem. I checked everything on my front end like you have and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Long story short i found a steering system that completely got rid of the stock set up. When i hit a bump with the factory stuff at about 35mph i would get the dw from hell! I went with the uturn set up from offroad only and it completely alleviated the problem and it drives great. Just another thought for you.
Looking at that oro crossover steering I don't know how you don't have bump steer. The drag link and track bar aren't parallel. This means when you hit a bump your steering is pushed or pulled due to the drag link not moving in harmony with the track bar.
 
Looking at that oro crossover steering I don't know how you don't have bump steer. The drag link and track bar aren't parallel. This means when you hit a bump your steering is pushed or pulled due to the drag link not moving in harmony with the track bar.
My guess is that the ORO U-Turn steering system is designed around vehicles with alot of lift where the inverted y steering system will get alot of toe in change through the axles vertical range of travel. I assume they figure that the toe change effect of vehicles with high lift is worse than the bumpsteer effect. So they chose to get rid of the toe variance issue for a bit of bumpsteer(which they "claim" is very small to non existant.

Question is which would you rather have? Less bumpsteer or less/no toe change?
 
My guess is that the ORO U-Turn steering system is designed around vehicles with alot of lift where the inverted y steering system will get alot of toe in change through the axles vertical range of travel. I assume they figure that the toe change effect of vehicles with high lift is worse than the bumpsteer effect. So they chose to get rid of the toe variance issue for a bit of bumpsteer(which they "claim" is very small to non existant.

Question is which would you rather have? Less bumpsteer or less/no toe change?
That's an easy one since I ran an inverted t setup with my old waggy axle. The bump steer sucked before relocating the track bar bracket. Then it was just tie rod roll that sucked with inverted t after that. I'm running a hp30 with a zj tie rod now. Crossover steering can work good on a tj if done right. None of the kit type setups seem to have hit that mark though.
 
That's an easy one since I ran an inverted t setup with my old waggy axle. The bump steer sucked before relocating the track bar bracket. Then it was just tie rod roll that sucked with inverted t after that. I'm running a hp30 with a zj tie rod now. Crossover steering can work good on a tj if done right. None of the kit type setups seem to have hit that mark though.
I guess then one question is, how much longer can you make the draglink in relation to the tb before bumpsteer effect becomes noticeable on X amount of lift.

Curious, does the Currie Correctlync lengthen the tie rod by moving the draglink/tierod mounting point over towards the passengerside a bit more, or is it identical to stock, and just stronger? Or did they make any geometry tweaks to it?
 
Curious, does the Currie Correctlync lengthen the tie rod by moving the draglink/tierod mounting point over towards the passengerside a bit more, or is it identical to stock, and just stronger? Or did they make any geometry tweaks to it?
Technically it does lengthen the dimension between the mounting spots for the tie rod, but that is why it is adjustable.
 
Looking at that oro crossover steering I don't know how you don't have bump steer. The drag link and track bar aren't parallel. This means when you hit a bump your steering is pushed or pulled due to the drag link not moving in harmony with the track bar.
I had massive bump steer and death wobble with the inverted y set up. The oro alleviated it all, it drives better than factory now.
 
I had massive bump steer and death wobble with the inverted y set up. The oro alleviated it all, it drives better than factory now.
The only reason you would have had bump steer with inverted y is if you used a drop pitman arm without also dropping the track bar an equal amount. The inverted y steering doesn't give bump steer when not dicked up by poorly designed lift kits selling you parts that shouldn't be used on a tj.
 
I assure you that i used the proper parts, and i had massive bump steer and death wobble. I'm also running 35 inch tires which doesn't help
I ran 35" tires on my old lp30 with stock steering for over a year with zero issues. I had 4.25" of suspension lift at the time. Bump steer isn't a common issue with inverted y . The problems stem from what I have already stated which is poor geometry due to having something raised, or dropped when it shouldn't be.
 
i ran 35" tires on my old lp30 with stock steering for over a year with zero issues. I had 4.25" of suspension lift at the time. Bump steer isn't a common issue with inverted y . The problems stem from what i have already stated which is poor geometry due to having something raised, or dropped when it shouldn't be.
bam!
 
I'm also running a larger lift! I understand the geometry of the steering very well! And the tires were very much a factor with my steering as when i would hit a bump, the drag links would start to flex and cause massive death wobble! I purchased larger drop Pitman arms, a track bar that was sufficient for the lift that I'm running and still had an issue. Bought the cross over steering kit from oro, and problem was alleviated, and your telling me that bump steer isn't possible with the inverted y steering?! I experienced it first hand........
 
I'm also running a larger lift! I understand the geometry of the steering very well! And the tires were very much a factor with my steering as when i would hit a bump, the drag links would start to flex and cause massive death wobble! I purchased larger drop Pitman arms, a track bar that was sufficient for the lift that I'm running and still had an issue. Bought the cross over steering kit from oro, and problem was alleviated, and your telling me that bump steer isn't possible with the inverted y steering?! I experienced it first hand........
Your lack of proper understanding is the problem. This post says it all.
 
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