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Dborns

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've got a 360 with a Motorcraft 2100 carb. I've had a stronger than normal gas smell lately and noticed a small leak either around the pump cover, or maybe even lower at the economizer valve cover. At idle, its not leaking at all, but when I get on the throttle, theres enough of a leak to need to do something about it. Theres also a small hole on the pump cover, and I remember having an issue with gas coming from that hole when I rebuilt my 2150, but I can't tell for sure where the gas is coming from.
I rebuilt it a year ago, (just to learn how to do it), installed it just to see how I did, and without doing any adjustments, it ran like crap and kept dying. I didn't rebuild the 2100 because it was running fine, and I didn't want to mess it up since I'd never rebuilt a carb before.
So with the leak on the 2100, I'm trying to decide which one I should use? Is there an advantage in the 2150 compared to the 2100? I have an exploded view of the carb, but its shown as "2100/2150", as if there are no major differences.
If both are basically the same, I'll just rebuild the current carb, as all the parts are there and everything is "set" right.
The one thing I would really like is a bowl vent, since the 2100 doesn't have one.
Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
I did say the the 2150 is rebuilt, but again, it ran like crap, and IIRC, there were some adjustments that needed to be done and I don't have the specs/ measurements to do that right. So either way, I'd be rebuilding the 2100 for the first time or re-rebuilding the 2150.
 
The only difference is the 2150 has an altitude compensating solenoid that you probably won't even use.

It can be hooked up to kick up the idle if you have an engine driven air compressor or on-board welder.
 
I don't know the specifics on the differences in the two carb but I know if you rebuild the 2100 the setting will be lost so you are not winning any battle s that way. Why would you need to rebuild the 2150 again? Seems to me you should just put it on and get it setup right. Probably just idle mixture adjustment to get it running good and that is fairly easy.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I may throw the 2150 on there again to see what happens. I took another look at the leak, and still can't tell for sure where its coming from. It looked like there was a drop coming off the rod that goes into the pump; the one that the pump rod is connected to. I took the carb off, and all four bolts on the pump cover and the economizer cover were tight. I wiped the area down good, put it back on, and had nothing leaking till I moved the throttle. When I did that, I had a bubble form on the economizer bolt. It was hard to see, but I think it came from the hole on the pump cover here-
Image

I had the same leak there when I rebuilt the 2150 except it was alot worse. What is this hole for?
 
Rebuild it. Your kit will have a new gasket for that pump. No, it shouldn't leak. The kit will have instruction on how to set the bowl levels for you application and how to set the idle screws. I used a vacuum gauge on mine and it was so simple it makes you feel stupid. I've got both type carb and they seem to run the same.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
The reason I am hesitant on rebuilding the 2100 is because its running fine, but with the leak I'm going to have to do it. I found a kit on ebay for $25, so I'm waiting for that to come. I would finish working on the 2150, but when I was putting it back together, the big gasket didn't fit it correctly so I used a little silicone, then read to never do that.... It was very easy to rebuild, so I'll do this one when I get the kit.
 
Keep track of your adjustments so you can return to a zero point and start fiddling with the screws. You really shouldn't be rebuilding your own carb if you're unwilling to touch the adjustments once installed. Adjustment is a key part of any carburetor installation, new used or rebuilt. There's a high risk any carb you install will run terrible unless you're willing to touch the screws.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I know that I need to count the turns on the screws so that I can get them back to where they are right now. I remember adjusting the bowl was easy with the included tape measure. I don't remember exactly what I was having trouble with on the 2150, but I think it was getting the bolts in the right place on the throttle plate? I think they were way off, and even missing some.
 
Rebuild it. Your kit will have a new gasket for that pump. No, it shouldn't leak. The kit will have instruction on how to set the bowl levels for you application and how to set the idle screws. I used a vacuum gauge on mine and it was so simple it makes you feel stupid. I've got both type carb and they seem to run the same.
:thumbsup: Mine leaked a little too (MC2100 carb) I replaced the accel pump and gasket... It worked! No leak...
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I got the carb torn down and soaking in some cleaner. Its pretty rough, and had some dirt down in the bowl, but it'll clean up nice. I noticed a few items that I have questions on. The throttle rod was connected to the top hole as you see here-
Image

I was thinking I had read that the different holes were to adjust for higher/ lower elevation? On a 360, where should it actually be?
Also, in the same pic, that blue zip tie is holding the bolt to the plate. Any ideas why its like that?
Thanks!
 
With the age of your engine, and the high likelihood it's got something other than a factory matched diff gear and camshaft and exhaust you should consider all linkage positions as viable options to improve driveability.

good luck with your jeep
 
I got the carb torn down and soaking in some cleaner. Its pretty rough, and had some dirt down in the bowl, but it'll clean up nice. I noticed a few items that I have questions on. The throttle rod was connected to the top hole as you see here-
Image

I was thinking I had read that the different holes were to adjust for higher/ lower elevation? On a 360, where should it actually be?
Also, in the same pic, that blue zip tie is holding the bolt to the plate. Any ideas why its like that?
Thanks!
Most of what I have read indicates that you should have your throttle set at the second or third hole for best performance, but you have to try them out and see what gives the best.

Pretty sure the 2100/2150 rebuild kit is the same kit. You should have extra parts after your rebuild the 2100.

I'm guessing the blue zip-tie is keeping the bolt out of the way of your linkage. Maybe you could just remove it?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I rebuilt it and tried to fire it up, and it wouldn't stay running. I wasn't thinking and just adjusted the large bolt that runs the throttle up, and it was running fast and didn't sound right. Then I remembered I had adjusted the idle screws out only 2 turns like it said in the directions. They were originally out 3 turns, so I adjusted them to that and it ran great. I drove it for awhile last night, and everything was fine.
I got in it this morning and it wouldn't start; it won't turn over at all. On the round choke cover, there is a setting, and I lined the mark up in the middle, but I'm not sure if that is correct. It shows that turning it clockwise is "Lean". If I don't have that set right, will that affect the starting?

I did have extra parts and gaskets left from the kit. All of the gaskets matched up correctly, unlike when I rebuilt the 2150. I'm going to play with it more tomorrow and cut that zip tie to see what happens.
 
I rebuilt it and tried to fire it up, and it wouldn't stay running. I wasn't thinking and just adjusted the large bolt that runs the throttle up, and it was running fast and didn't sound right. Then I remembered I had adjusted the idle screws out only 2 turns like it said in the directions. They were originally out 3 turns, so I adjusted them to that and it ran great. I drove it for awhile last night, and everything was fine.
I got in it this morning and it wouldn't start; it won't turn over at all. On the round choke cover, there is a setting, and I lined the mark up in the middle, but I'm not sure if that is correct. It shows that turning it clockwise is "Lean". If I don't have that set right, will that affect the starting?

I did have extra parts and gaskets left from the kit. All of the gaskets matched up correctly, unlike when I rebuilt the 2150. I'm going to play with it more tomorrow and cut that zip tie to see what happens.
I think if you turn your adjuster screws out about 2 1/2 turns you're going to be very close to where you need to be.

When you say that the engine doesn't turn over at all, it makes me think that when you turn the key nothing happens?? Maybe just a click? Or are you saying it cranks (engine turns) but it doesn't fire? Not turning over has nothing to do with the carburetor. Not turning over is going to be electrical... well, it could be a lot of things, but it isn't carb. Can you expound?
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
yeah, that was worded wrong. It turns over but won't fire. It has gas and it normally takes a little coaxing to fire up on cool mornings, but wasn't having it this morning. I'm assuming choke?, but I have no idea...
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Yes, I did do that. I'm used to having to give it alot of pedal to get it going. It was in the garage and I didn't want to flood it, so I stopped when I knew it wasn't going to happen.

I took some advice from here and took pics of the carb before I tore into it, and I'm glad I did. I found one of the choke before I took the cover off. Right now, I have the cover in the position so that "Motorcraft" would be parallel with the base. That puts the mark on the cover with the middle mark on the carb. Looking at the pic, you can see that that is way off. The red is the middle mark on the carb, and the yellow is close to where the mark is on the cover.
Image

I understand how the choke works, but I don't know how to adjust it, and I don't even know if that is my issue. Will google it to see what I can find.
 
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