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Discussion Starter · #821 ·
The new to me engine came with a 120 amp alternator I knew that wouldn’t cut it for my needs. I also know a few people that had nothing but trouble from aftermarket high amp alternators. So I looked for a factory high amp alternator. I found out that 2015-2019 HD trucks and vans had a 220A alternator option (RPO KW5). They are super expensive new so I hopped on car-part.com and got one with 40k mi shipped to the door for $75. The connector broke during shipping but that’s ok. Something I recently learned was in 2006 GM went to 2 wire alternators. These alternators talk to the ECM and BCM to operate correctly. I will not be running a BCM and I wanted to keep the ability to use my charge indicator lamp. To keep the same setup (4 wire) I currently run you have to swap the voltage regulator to a 4 wire self excite.

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Goat built alternator and power steering bracket came in. I went this rout because I could tell the Factory LS bracket put the power steering way too low and it would cause issues with my upper control arm.



The truck transmission needs to be converted to 4wd. To do that the output shaft has to be changed from the 36 spline 2wd to the 29 spline 4wd. That requires dissembling the transmission. I decided I’m going to try and tackle this myself and do the upgrades Sonnax and a few other companies make for the transmission to make it more reliable. I bought the ATSG book to guide me. Also made this adapter for an engine stand out of scrap I had laying around. I hope I don’t screw this up.


 

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Discussion Starter · #823 ·
220 amp alternator? Man, that's beefy. My power welder alternator only puts out 195.

Damn, even your alternator is bigger than mine...

:)
Yeah wasn’t expecting to find a factory one that high.


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Discussion Starter · #824 ·
Started tearing into the transmission. Pulled the pan and found a little clutch material or maybe converter.



Got all of the guts pulled out.




Luckily I was able to borrow these snap ring pliers. The center case snap ring is no joke. I started with prybar and screwdriver but quickly gave up for fear of injury or death.





Here is the reason for taking the transmission apart in the first place (worked fine before I tore the truck down). Swapping the 36 spline 2wd rear output for a 29 spline 4wd output. I’ll be able to use a dodge 241 input in my 241C.





Took the pump apart. I think I am going to need a new bell housing half. It is scored enough to slightly catch my fingernail. The stator half I couldn’t feel anything with my finger so I guess it’s good. Amazon has the bell housing half pretty cheap.






Still need to build a list of parts I’m replacing and upgrading for this thing. I have some but need to talk to a transmission guy.


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Discussion Starter · #826 ·
Tranny work like that is hardcore. Whole ‘nother level.
The 6L transmission really isn’t bad. No servos or bands. I bought an ATSG book. If you can follow directions it’s easy. You do need a couple special tools. It also does a really good job of explaining how everything works in the transmission. Still a little over my head, but I’m sure if I really took my time to absorb what it was saying I would understand everything.




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It's exciting traveling where most guys won't. I'm sure your transmission will work just fine. That little bit of clutch material in the pan is nothing. It looks really clean to me. Of course the last one I built was a 1972 TH350 so it probably had a few more miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #828 ·
It's exciting traveling where most guys won't. I'm sure your transmission will work just fine. That little bit of clutch material in the pan is nothing. It looks really clean to me. Of course the last one I built was a 1972 TH350 so it probably had a few more miles on it.
I think it just daunting because it’s a ton of parts. Honestly I waffled back and forth on doing it myself. As of right now glad I did. I didn’t think it was much but something abrasive got in the pump to score it like that. The fluid was really dark but didn’t smell burnt. I know the truck converters in these transmissions are notorious for failing around 100k mi due to crappy design. The truck had 110k on it. I am putting back in a CTSV/ZL1 converter which is different design and slightly higher stall 2200-2400.


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Discussion Starter · #829 ·
Had a little garage time today and hopefully ordered the rest of the parts for the transmission rebuild. They should be here late next week.

The bell housing side of the pump was scored enough to catch my fingernail. The stator side had visible scoring but it was light enough you couldn’t feel it all. So I got a replacement bell housing (they are integrated).




While waiting on new slide, rotor, veins, etc. I turned to the reliability upgrades to the pump and valve body. Installed the Transgo TCC valve kit SK-6L80 shift kit. Also installed Sonnax o-ringed end plugs.




Here are all the parts that are no longer used.



One of the Transgo kits came with new pressure switches for the TEHCM. The instruction say don’t mess with them unless they are broken. None of mine were broken but I saw crap under a couple of them and I couldn’t let that go.




The main case has 2 ports on the upper and lower back that are plugged in 4wd application since there is no slip yoke to lube. No diagrams called out that part or had a part number. I turned to the 6L80/6L90E builders group on FB. Luckily when I asked a guy chimed in with a dorman part number that worked perfectly! I saw conflicting information on weather or not to use a sealant with the freeze plugs. I didn’t want to take any chances of it leaking since it would be an absolute nightmare to fix if it did. I put a little permatex “right stuff” in the bore before I tapped them in. Removed any excess once they were in place.






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Discussion Starter · #830 ·
Latest update.

Made this lifting tool for the rear planetary.



The found out the 4wd shaft in the pic above will not work due to being too long and splines not cut farther down (necks down so couldn’t respline). Here is the stick out with the 6L80 adapter.


So I sent the 2wd 36 spline shaft off to Moser Engineering to get it resplined to 32 spline since I had a 32 spline input from when I was running the NV4500. Anyone need a 29 spline for a NP241? 🤦






Used a 3” PVC coupler for a clutch compression tool.





Populated the case and got it all back together





…next post


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Discussion Starter · #831 ·
Couldn’t make my last wheeling trip so I decided it was time.






Put the ZL1 converter and slapped the drive train together.





Stabbed the motor in only to find out I have a lot of interference issues.




The goatbuilt power steering pump bracket put the pump right into my orbital. So I looked around and ordered up the ICT “tight” power steering/ alternator bracket. It fits just barely.




Next I have to turn my attention to the a/c. The compressor and bracket is right where the strut hoop is. I have a couple options. Another bracket that would make it a PITA to put oil in the engine. Cut the strut hoops out and redo. Buy a smaller compressor and new bracket. Still deciding. I’ll make the motor and transmission mounts in the mean time. In the pics the front half of the bracket is clocked up so I can get the engine where I want it.





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Discussion Starter · #833 ·
Getting close to firing up here are some updates.

Designed a new gate plate to work with the winters shifter. There are micro switches mounted in side the shifter so I will have TU/TD in the D5 position. May have it cut out of stainless, but this one is Kevlar impregnated so we will see how it holds up.


Ended up buying a smaller compressor and different mounts.


Went through a couple iterations of intakes using junk yard parts ultimately deciding on buying an Airraid 4” tube kit.






Speaking of Airraid the MAF tube was made incorrectly. The hole for the boss is too small. They sent another and it was made incorrectly too. They have all of their tubes currently quarantined for QA inspection. I was able to get one of them opened up to work but now one mounting hole is off. It will work for the time being until the supply me with one made correctly (supposed to be a 1.75” hole).




I’m using C6 vette manifolds. With the bends I have to make coming off the manifold the 2 bolt flange was not going to work. Had my buddy Tig some Vbands on. I was able to mostly finish the exhaust. Since I cheated the engine over about an inch to the passenger to make room for multiple clearance issues I couldn’t come down between the link for the Y-pipe on that side. So it runs rearward and collects behind the upper link. Still need to add in a flex joint toward the rear since no room before the muffler (stayed in existing spot) and resonator. I also realized I hate welding exhaust tube. I suck at it. It will get the job done though.





Not much left on the punch list. I’m working on my start up tune right now. Tuning is a lot to soak in. Just slowly going through and documenting in a word document all the changes I’m making. Hopefully I’ll fire it up this week or next. Here is what’s left.




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Discussion Starter · #839 ·
Got the gate plate made. Friend had some scrap .090 titanium. Got it cut on a laser. Hand roller had nothing for it so I used my press brake and bent it a little every 1/2” or so. It works perfectly with the centering detent and micro switch holders I got from rad designs.

Here are my old plates, the titanium plate abs a test plate out of steel.


Not perfect but good enough.


Cleaned them up with 80 grit on a DA.


Installed.



Still working on the tune. It’s better but far from prime time.


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Discussion Starter · #840 ·
Well Dyno day didn’t go as planned. We were pretuning it before we put it in the Dyno and found the fuel pressure was at 80 psi. We swapped in a new vette regulator and it only dropped it to 70 psi. Couldn’t really go any farther because it needs to be a 58 psi. I ordered an Aeromotive adjustable regulator. Should be in early this week and I’ll try to get it installed before Friday to get another crack at it. They did give me a speed density tune for the time being and even though it’s still trying to pull fuel it runs sooo much better.




Just a little blip of the throttle spun those little tires.



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